diy solar

diy solar

Cheap mini solar field build

The afterthought that is my 2 IMO boxes. If only I could concentrate just on this solar project, It would be done.

Each panel measured a hair under 35 volts and at the disconnect switches each string came in around 350 volts, even with 1/2 of one string in the shade.

The meter, mini field and battery rack all grounded to the original rod.

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Buttoning up this freakin mini solar field and waiting for some feedback from Sig Solar on commissioning which is a bit slow to come these days, but I am a huge pain in the ass, so...
I'd say this was a bit more work than just buying and assembling an array or 2, but it left a few grand in my pocket, is low profile and was really easy to clean. Automotive wire loom will supposedly keep vermin from chewing on my 10awg. I don't exactly have a critter issue, hence the deer poly fence (steel critter fence at the bottom) which surrounds a bit over 1 1/2 acres of my prop & the driveway gates make for a 100% enclosed space, but I do still get squirrels & birds in here. The fence & gates was initially protection for ornamental plants, fruit trees & veggies.


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Waiting on some automotive wire loom to wrap this mini field up. Apparently, rodents like to chew the cable insulation, not because of it's soy content but it's texture. Who knows, and I don't think I'll have issues but just in case. It was inexpensive & easy too install.
I set each panel to a fixed 32*. I did not anticipate shading of these posts, and they do cast a lot of shade when the panels are adjusted down from the 45* winter setting to 32* for spring/fall and would certainly be much worse ar 14* for summer. I cut the remainder of the post off hand hand painted the ends to prevent rust.
I used zinc coated hardware, which apparently will not cross-mojinate with the aluminum. Bi-facial panels were out of the question as there's no room to install hardware this way. They're snug enough to lock the panel in place but not so much as to distort the frame as these frames weren't exactly designed to be installed this way.
I used a heavy-duty landscape fabric which has a felt bottom and made as few cuts as possible then taped the seems from underneath. I installed staples on either side of every cut and elsewhere to keep it in place. I've used this many times for landscape purposes and it will last a very long time and be very easy to maintain and keep shit of my f'n panels! . Once I get grass growing all throughout the area, I'll just mow right over the edge of the fabric and collect the clippings. Mini field cost besides the panels & pv cable was < $500.


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SS is sending a read write cable for the communication hub. Pictures are at night. I watched for a minute and watt use dipped into the 160's. Guess that's pretty low. I don't notice much change at all in the soc's on the hub in the morning and the panels start producing as soon as it starts to brighten up outside. Not much that early in the morning, but a few hundred watts are coming in shortly after the sun cracks at dusk and that's all this house needs until I turn on a major appliance.


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Sometimes, especially is pv production is falling off as the sun goes down, it'll start pulling from the grid rather than the batteries, but after a few minutes, it pulls from the batteries.
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Basic
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Charge
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Discharge
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Might want to check your discharge amps. I don’t know your batteries specs. But I had to move mine down from 250 amp to 160amp. And you might want to check your charge amps. If it’s too high and your BMS doesn’t caught it, probably wouldn’t end well.
 
They're set to what the tech from SS had me set them to during commissioning.
These are eg4 lifepower4 batteries.
I called the tech dept today to see what else should be changed because now that the comm hub is goood, I wanted the battery setting on "lithium" whereas due to the hub not being set up at the time of commissioning, he had me put the batteries on "lead-acid".
 
Wow, there is a ton of info in the display menu; I'm a bit jealous.

Few things I noticed glancing at them.
Under the grid the voltages don't add up. 251.5 doesn't equal 122.6 + 123.8, likely no big deal but I wonder where it's getting 251.5.
Under battery, your cutoff is 2.5V / cell. I would increase this.
Max cell is 3.39V min is 3.327V, keep an eye on min and max when charging. I suspect you'll have to float for a long while to get them back in balance. I dealt with this on my diy pack I didn't top balance (I know I should have since my BMS doesn't have active balancing.
Under discharge your cutoff is 46V, this is better than the 40V under battery, but your stop discharge is still 40V. (remember I don't have one of these so I don't completely understand them).
Under Charge, reduce the 56.4V absorb if you have issues with high cells (the deviation between min /max cell voltages I mentioned above).
Depending how many batteries you have your charge and discharge amps could exceed recommended C rates for the batteries.

Sorry if that's hard to read, I'm bouncing back and forth between tabs on my phone while looking at your settings.

All in all I don't see anything super alarming. If the system is working for you and you're not having any issues let it run.
A year ago my head would hurt trying to make sense of everything... If you're in the same boat it will get way better and all make sense in time. When you get frustrated walk away and come back to it.
Keep posting questions you have, it's fun learning. Most importantly, don't get shocked ?.

Ps - there is a Lux Power thread that I was following for a while with a plethora of information on this inverter, a lot of it may be outdated by now since there have been so many firmware updates.
I hope everything is figured out quickly so your biggest concern can be what loads to run when your batteries are nearly full so you aren't wasting all those potential photons...
 
Hey, thanks for the response 420.
First time I used a volt meter was last week, a couple days prior to start up. I checked the panels then the strings and diagnosed a mistake I made.
I have flipped a few houses and installed a tablet radio in one of my cars, but that's it and I never needed to know a damn thing about electricity. I've gotten away with it all this time, and now it's caught up with me.
 
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It will all make sense before you know it. Hell 5 years ago I said solar was dumb and the extent of my electrical knowledge was replacing a breaker, changing a receptacle, adding led light bars to the tractor... Now I've had my grid breaker turned off for months and installed the first phase of my system in Oct 22... Baby steps ?
 
On your dongle issue, was your phone ever able to connect toBA31101538 Wi-Fi. Sometimes it take a long time before mine will give a check mark that it’s latch on.
 
On your dongle issue, was your phone ever able to connect toBA31101538 Wi-Fi. Sometimes it take a long time before mine will give a check mark that it’s latch on.
No. I did what I could and I don't even remember exactly what I did. I don't normally do this kind of stuff. I make calls, send texts, take & download pics and use the phone as a hot spot for a tablet radio I've got in one of my cars. I actually hate using the phone for anything else and always rely on my laptop.
 
Newbie here reading some old threads and learning new tricks
I admire the way you think like 👍 the clean look of your setup I recently "2 weeks ago" received my 20k+ of solar crap from SS and now have a new hobby
I took a similar approach to yours mostly because of location and limited space of my main panel.
Then I seen your ferrules, I've used a similar technique for over 25 years that started with those old 2-bolt clamp style replacement top post battery cable ends I'd mouse the stranded wire with stripped ballast wire remnants.
Also like rear cable entry very clean and easier to manage in both pull wire and termination.
Keep up the good work and share so others can learn. At least that's what I've been told.
 
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Newbie here reading some old threads and learning new tricks
I admire the way you think like 👍 the clean look of your setup I recently "2 weeks ago" received my 20k+ of solar crap from SS and now have a new hobby
I took a similar approach to yours mostly because of location and limited space of my main panel.
Then I seen your ferrules, I've used a similar technique for over 30 years that started with those old 2-bolt clamp style replacement top post battery cable ends I'd mouse the stranded wire with stripped ballast wire remnants.
Also like rear cable entry very clean and easier to manage in both pull wire and termination.
Keep up the good work and share so others can learn. At least that's what I've been told.
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