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Bimble solar are super helpful, glad you got good service out of them.

Generic Asian R290 unit this end.... Seems to do the job.

Not a fan, used it for 4-5yrs... I think the K9 setup is better, I had a lot of issues with the cellmon network connections on my blockmon M8's.

Orion is not batrium….. Orion good, batrium bad

£500 takes it. Collection from Dorset, UK. Temp sensor in the inverter is bad (common fault) but everything works as it should. Only retired this as the shed it’s in has to come down, and it won’t fit in the house so I’ve gone for a Sunsynk.

In my opinion, yes….

Into a failed pack….. parallel packs always need inter-pack fusing, with stuff that won’t catch fire. We were discusssing this 15+yrs ago on the outback power forum when I was messing with wet Nicad…

I have heavily abused my CALB plastic cased lfp cells, charging them when frozen, discharging them well below cut-off, charging them to 4v on occasion. They puffed up and failed, but they did not catch fire on me.

This is what I’ve got. Works a treat over here in mm2 land. I prefer it to my ebay special hydraulic one, mainly because it doesn’t leave wings.

Agreed, it’s the same over in mm2 land, the dies are always mis-marked. These things take a modicum of intellect to figure out, and if you lack the ability to see that then you probably shouldn’t play around with solar and ess stuff. I’ve since switched to a mechanical dimple indent crimper, it...

Hydraulic lug crimper is <$50 these days, no excuse not to have one.

Good to see you still keeping busy Bob…. Just retired my vfx3048e on fw500 hardware that’s been running continuously since 2007 - only retired it because the building it was located in needed to be demolished and it won’t fit on the wall in the house…

I’ve dismantled the pack that this bms was installed on so it’s now available: watchmon 4, 16x blockmon m8, shunt, some interconnect cables (one of the blockmon cables is damaged) The blockmon network wasn’t establishing completely reliably this last year or so, so I suspect a blockmon is...

I’ve just remembered that I have a weee skip on site still, I’ll just toss them in there. I’ve paid for it, might as well use it.

I’ve got waste matters coming down sometime this year to deal with some chemicals off this site so I might just make it their problem. I’ve also got the wet Nicad recyclers coming down, they might also be interested in taking them on, I’m paying enough to have the 4.5 tons of nicads recycled...

Does anyone have an easy disposal solution for end of life cells here in the UK? I’ve got 18x calb 210aH that are shot and need to go for recycling/disposal. They’re all puffed up something chronic and are ready for the scrap bin. 2010 date codes so they haven’t done bad.

Something else worth mentioning in case someone comes to this in the future, if you manually start the genset and want to charge, it won't switch over the transfer switch and start charging unless you %SOC is below the level that you set 'Gen load ON batt %' to. This is unexpected behaviour...

Likewise…. Be seeing you

If the documentation was up to spec, I wouldn’t need to. I didn’t need to for all my outback kit and I shouldn’t need to for this either. I’m well aware of how this stuff works and should be wired and configured. Not my first rodeo.

Outback vfx3048e, happy running at 3.8kW for ages….. 3.6kW Sunsynk (yes, I know it’s transformer-less) won’t carry 3.8kW for anything like its rated surge time of 10secs…. It really is a bit crap in comparison. Anyway, TOU settings are bypassed for now, and I’ve requested 100% charge, 24/7. As...

No, I stand by my assertion that these are crap…. It’s an infinitely inferior product to the Outback, especially when it comes to surge rating…. Anyway, I’ll see if I can figure this out. My TOU settings are set to accept the generator input and to charge to 100% during normal non-quiet-time hours.

Here’s the issue…. The Sunsynk called for generator start 6.1hrs ago (I have it on manual at the moment, don’t have the 2-wire start hooked up), I started the genset manually when I got home just now, transfer switch has moved the loads over, yet the battery isn’t requesting a charge….

If this crappy inverter gives me any more grief then I guess the answer is to use a Cerbo GX to interface my battery to my generator 2-wire start (the cerbo can talk pylontech to my battery), and go back to using my Outback VFX for inverter/charger duties... I only went with the Sunsynk as it...

I've got a Seplos mason 280L case, fitted with EVE304 cells, top balanced before assembly, it has a V3 BMS. I do not have the PC software, yet. My inverter/charger is a Sunsynk 3.6kW (what a piece of s**t this thing is, but anyway), I'm having trouble getting the BMS to request a charge from...

Go to nkon in .NL, they'll help you out. Failing that, shipment from the UK to Europe is a piece of piss, I do it everyday. Go to Fogstar, they'll definitely take care of you.

There is an option for the flexnet to control charge termination, but not change the charge parameters: https://forum.outbackpower.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=4919 https://www.outbackpower.com/downloads/documents/appnotes/fndc_app_note.pdf Taken from the above tech note : "If the Enable Charge...

That’s water damage…. I fix flooded pcbs for a living, I recognise that a mile off.

Correct. The Flexnet does not override the voltage setpoints programmed into the mppt and inverter. The original outback gear was designed before we had lithium storage, so the charge algorithms are geared for lead acid. They’re fully programmable, but the system has no ability to communicate...

Flexnet + LFP owner here…. The flexnet is a shunt and %SOC tracker, with an aux relay. Nothing more. Bulk current/absorption setpoint + timer/ float setpoint are all set either in the outback inverter, the mppt, or both.

JK is fully programmable to open/close on any user selectable parameter. If I can’t get the bms to do it then I’ll use a cerbo gx, or build something from a canbus shield and an arduino.

If you order a v3 from fogstar, make sure they ship a new set of bus bars - they’re all different between the v2 and v3. V3 doesn’t route the +Ve through the bms, instead it has all the shunts on the -ve bus. +Ve comes straight off the pack, through the fuse, off to the output terminal.

I think I’ll stick with SOC, but thanks for your comment anyway…. Back to the task at hand, seems like both seplos v3 and JK have dry contacts. The seplos one appears to be undocumented, but the JK one works well (according to latest OGG video)… that’s seems a sensible way to go.

They’ve got the new Jk in stock, I’d probably fit one of those if I were you.

Then what's the issue?

People try, but unless your cells are perfect (easier to do now that we have access to such good quality prismatics), you’ll be forever fighting runners, at least in my experience. Hardly worth going for that last 10 % and stressing about everything shooting up the upper knee, much easier to...