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Again, I agree with all your points. However the scope of my project has grown since I purchased the 4 x 304 A/H cells. My aim is to make a powerful portable all-in-one universal powerstaion for use on film/photography sets. (see attached pic) The added bonus will be to take it away camping and...

I've read the lacklustre reviews for the older Ender 3 series printers however I'm prepared to gamble that the new versions have improved and addressed the previous issues. I just bough the Ender 3 V3 KE which has better specs than the 1st model I linked. (300ºC printing, improved rails/supports...

Budget is defiantly an issue. I'm prepared to spend the AUD $300 (plus material) to begin with. In my little research online, it seems that many of the problems that plagued the previous Ender 3 models have been addressed with the V3-SE so hopefully it will be passable for my infrequent use...

Thanks, thats a great lead.

I'm considering purchasing a 3D printer (Creality Ender-3 V3 SE) and using it to print (amongst other things) parts for my solar builds. The first project that has driven this idea is for a custom bus bar incorporating ANL fuses. The file can be viewed here: Thingiverse Fuseholder for 5x40...

No, not necessarily. But perhaps I would have purchased less powerful BMS had I been aware. I’ll be using the inverter and battery to operate cinematography Lighting equipment. The runtimes would not exceed 10 minutes in one session generally without powering them down

Well spotted. That gives me a bit more confidence in this setup for now.

3000W inverter

I'm building a simple 12v battery for a DIY toolbox power station. I've ordered 4 x EVE LF304 cells and I've also ordered a 300A BMS JK-B2A8S30P The planned configuration is a simple 4S1P which will give me 12.8v and 304A however I've only just realised by reading the specs (attached below)...

I regularly see 100, 120, 150, 200, 300A/h etc batteries in the marketplace but given 280A/h cells are relatively common, you rarely see them as pre-built versions. Can anyone explain why?

The width of the existing straps are 50mm. however I’m having trouble sourcing this size in Australia. I thought the safest bet would be too reinstate the same materials as came from the factory. One concern is however would be that the 50mm wide strap would hide the terminals, making it...

For now, I was just planning on replacing just the side that was pulled off.

Thanks, that is a very educational reply. Does surface area play a role in the capacity to handle greater loads? I’m not sure if the design of the nickel plated sheets having a large surface area compensates for thin material.

Thanks, I’m learning as I go so good thing this post is in beginners corner 😀 These are the closest battery specs that I can estimate the cells to be: Nominal capacity: 15Ah Continuous discharge current: 75A Maximum current discharge: 5C

It's a general purpose 12.8V 135Ah battery. Pics explain it better here I have a 1200W inverter that will be used occasionally but it will be mostly use to run a portable camping fridge and lighting. The back story is that the battery was refunded under warranty due to a short that killed the...

Looking to spot weld nickel plate to connect these batteries as illustrated. This will be my 1st time spot welding (I will DIY build a welder) I'm seeking advice on what thickness nickel plate to purchase given the high amperage of this pack (135Ah) also, I'm assuming the thicker the plate, a...

I'd like to order nickel sheets to hopefully spot weld onto the terminals of this battery pack. Can anyone advise what thickness I should get? Options seem to be from 0.3mm to 1mm thick. The pack output is 135Ah

Thanks for your message. I've heard that buying direct from Eve rather expensive for shipping small quantities. The quote I have for DAP shipping to Australia is only 77USD which seems pretty fair. As mentioned in my post however I would prefer to have DPP and not have any extra sneaky charges...

I've been quoted 83-85USD (before shipping) from China for EVE 304AH Grade A cells. This seems like very attractive prices compared to what I have seen in the spreadsheet posted here some time ago. I am building just one 12v battery at this point in time and this order is my set of the system...

G'day DIY brains trust. Long story short, I have a 135Ah - 12 V battery consisting of 32 33140 cells in a 4S8P configuration. The original battery had shorted and fried the BMS. I was removing the pack from the battery enclosure and in the process I manage to unfortunately tear the bottom...

Thanks. It's very late where I am and I needed some reassurance!

All cells are 3.2v 32 Batteries total 4 x 8 Aren't they all just connected in series?

HAHA -definitely short-circuit blues however I don't think all is lost. All cells appear to be fine, just the BMS is toast. Landfill will have to wait for another victim.

All 32 cells measure 3.34V I took the heatsink off the BMS and a scorch mark is evident in the pad over one of the transistors. The diode and positive lead also look scorched as well.

So I did this. I went back to the supplier and figured I'd make them an offer on the dead 135 Ah battery and see If I can performer Frankenstein and bring it back to life. They were happy to take $50 cash as I think it was just going to end up being be a door stop. I figured that if necessary I...

Thanks Steve for your informative reply. I was unaware of Gobel Power and now I've been watching the reviews/tests from Off Grid Garage Andy seems very enthusiastic about global as a supplier so I will include them in my research. I've reached out also to both the other vendors for a...

Hi brains trust - I'm considering a DIY battery build using cells purchased from Alibaba. I've noticed that on some listings you Start order request and the site offers an initial price with shipping to be negotiated with the seller. However on some other listings you simply Start order and...

I thought I’d post an update and thank everybody who had replied. The supplier where I bought the battery was extremely helpful and provided me with a full refund immediately. He even offered a direct swap with a more expensive, however, lower amperage battery, which, with hindsight I regret not...

This post covers the methods that I've tried. As noted in that post, the DC-DC charger is meant to have a BMS wake function.

Thanks for the quick reply. I can confirm that I was using a multimeter and testing the battery when not connected to anything. Before trying the DC-DC charger, the reading across the terminals was only 4V and after being on the DC-DC charger, it now reads 0V (again, just the naked battery)...

Hi Crowz, Are you able to shed any light why the the little remaining voltage slowly disappeared when it was connected to the DC-DC charger? And I guess it would be pointless trying again today? EDIT: The battery before the short was at 95% SOC

Good tip, I tried this just now and unfortunately had no luck. Before I hack the box open I will go back to the retailer where I purchased the battery and see if I have any joy there.

It reads 0v at the terminals and it has a circuit. When I plug a 12V 1-5A charger in, it fluctuates between 30-400mV (any reason why the DC charger only puts out such a minimal voltage when connected to the battery?) The SOC of the battery was 95% at the time of the short. (I was charging it to...

Okay braintrust. I'm at a loss now. I've tried three different methods to kickstart the battery. No luck with any of them. 12v 1.5A charger from a HDD 12v lithium jump starter pack (according to the flashing LEDs, the house battery was too low voltage :fp) DC-DC charger connected to solar (it...

Agreed, trying to charger is my next step. As I noted above, I read that the charges should be very low amperage to begin with. Is that correct? I assume it doesn’t have to be a specific lithium charger? I have one on order but it hasn’t arrived yet but I do have a standard SLA 12v charger...