Search results

BYD doesn't currently sell ANY hybrid in Australia, or indeed anywhere else but China AFAIK, although that is about to change this year with them bringing out the 'ute' to Australia The BYD Shark, the first BYD ute, is supposed to be on sale in early 2025, there are at least one and maybe two...

You REALLY need to vet your sources more carefully- I didn't even need to watch it to know immediately that was a video by a utuber named Sepentza- a notorious antiChina (and rabid anti EV) utuber with a long history of 'distorting the truth' aka lying... (he is a far rightwing supporter, born...

And to address the 'lack of red tape'- a gridtie or hybrid system in Australia requires installation of one of the 'Australian Standards Tested and Approved' inverters only (which can cost between $50k to half a million to get an approval per model, no approval, no install it)- to install the...

LOL- you yanks get much larger rebates than we do- in my state (Qld) there is no state rebate at all for a gridtie solar, and the federal government rebate is $400 Au (some states do provide a small rebate as well- two match the federal rebate $ for $)- that $8000 rebate was when the scheme was...

Yes- thats how tariffs work... If a particular item costs $100, and a 100% tariff is put on it- then the total tariff is also $100... Making the total price $200 (doubling the price) That's the way tariffs have been calculated since I was a kid... (and thats just when i became aware of how they...

That does seem a little dumb doesn't it... It wasn't the US consumers that brought in the tariffs, it wasn't the Chinese manufacturers that brought in the tariffs, it wasn't 'little green from Mars' or the Galactic Federation.... Guess who it was????

As for Aussie solar prices- well a 6.6kw gridtie is just over $2000 US.. Thats from picking up the phone or dropping an email, to sitting back and watching it power your house... (and that is literally the only thing you have to do- no 'permits' or negotiating with electric companies trying to...

No worries

There is a small LFP production line being touted, but it would be a flea in comparison to the big existing manufacturers... Sadly, Australia's governments have since the 1970's, run Australian manufacturing into the ground, and at this point little to none is being 'made in Australia'...

That's less than half the size of the deposit being mined in the Northern Territory here, and the NT mine is only one of 9 currently in operation in Australia, with all the rest currently in Western Australia (most of which are bigger than the new NT mine, which has only been in operation a few...

The US already pretty much has the highest solar prices in the world by a considerable margin, all this will do is slow its uptake further (and increase greenhouse gases- not a good thing for the future generations) All because the US has trained its population over generations that they 'need'...

Personally I would use a 500A fuse, as that covers both the connection surge and also any peaks and still gives an adequate safety margin if you short a mosfet or similar (although the inverters internal fuse should cover that)- itsjust that running a fuse too low a value can result in 'nuisance...

Check the panels for their recommended fuse rating for that '10A' fuse (most 190w panels have a 15A or higher recommended fuse, depending on the exact panel specs (Isc etc)- its usually written on the label on the back of the panel The panels breaker would be that fuse rating x2 (and located at...

With a Victron 150/70 With a 3S array configuration, as long as the individual panel Voc's are under 50v Voc each, then a 3S string is fine... on a 12v battery bank voltage however, the Victron at 70A can only handle up approximately 900w of panels however (so yes you are over paneled with...

Not sure Jaycar stock cables that big, but 'ye old starter motor cable' is quite adequate for the job, and a lot cheaper through Supercheap...

The voltage still rises with increased light levels- more slowly, but it does still rise... Worse, many people use Voc and Vmp interchangeably, (some even use the 'sales talk' of '12v panels', '24v panels', and use THAT as their basis for the PVmax rating....) :fp2 Some of the things I have...

Don't laugh, I mentioned before the motorhome (RV) that had bought the bifacial panels because they 'got more power' and then preceded to bolt them directly to the roof... I was seriously struggling to keep a straight face when I diagnosed his 'lost power' issues- he simply didn't know (just had...

Panels can most certainly generate more power than their rated output... (it is one of the reasons I push 'derate your PVmax voltage on charge controllers to only 80% of the max voltage figure they list' so much...) I have seen my own panels exceed their 'max peak output by over 10%-15% for...

So yours is pretty close to mine- about 20% lost in summer because of the heat... (mines a little worse, but my airtemps run for weeks well over 40C during summer...) At least I don't live in Marble Bar here- their highest temp in summer was 52C (125.6F) Not a big fan of ChatGPT- it likes...

They are ideal for bifacials as you might imagine, with light being reflected from the water underneath the arch up onto the 'backside' of the panel, giving you a real boost in production compared to single sided panels, and unlike cabin mounted ones, are well away from the sails, minimising...

Actually, those who have been in the solar game for a while are all too aware of the 'hot panel' dropoff, it is something that has to be factored into the offgrid calculations where I live (N/E Australia) where summer temps in excess of 40C or 100F are common for much of the summer months (just...

Its actually quite common for boats to have them mounted on the stern arch if present (it obviously has to be designed to handle the loads of course) and is commonly seen here in Australia... I probably wouldn't recommend them on a deep sea vessel, but for those who don't venture out in...

The main reason there is a LOT of contradictory info on the net is because there are a lot of places with different regs... Varying from 'you don't need to actually have a earth for offgrid legally speaking' in some places to 'must be an approved earth connection installed and tested for ground...

It is best not undersize wiring to an inverter (unless there is also a smaller rated fuse selected for the wire size at the battery bank itself) as it can cause false triggering of the undervoltage circuits in the inverter... As you are in Australia, don't use AWG (most stockists won't have...

It means the combined Voc ratings of the panels can't exceed 100v (and personally, I have seen my own panels here in Australia go 15% past their marked Voc in the wrong weather conditions- I never go past 80% of the PVmax rating of the charge controller- it WILL dies sooner or later through a...

When it is running as a gridtie, no N/E bond is required (and at least in France is a definite nono!!!) ONLY required when operating in island mode (no grid supply present at all)- inverters with the relay are ok, inverters that manually disconnect it via removing a screw or link aren't allowed...

That depends entirely on the local regulations- in France at least, auxiliary N/E bonds are frowned upon, and they may not allow connection to the grid at all if they are present- what Japans stance on this is I have no idea...

Correct (sorta) hence the name... it has become an 'island' of power in the overall grid- neither importing nor exporting power (something that is frowned upon in all jurisdictions- when there is a blackout- NO exports of any kind, all wiring basically 'disconnected' completely to prevent...

Many take the wiki article to mean TT presents no risk at all with a broken neutral- however this is incorrect- TT is exactly the same as any other supply configuration in regards to a broken neutral (and in some respects could be considered MORE of a risk in certain circumstances than some...

TT is very rare, and is not exactly easy to deal with... (and people with experience with it equally rare) It also relies entirely on active circuit protection for safety (RCDs- which are quite reliable, but not 100%, which is why most places don't allow it...) rather than more passive...

Most gridties struggle with cloudy days (although the new higher voltage ones (with 1000Vdc PV limits, rather than the older 600v or 500v ones) are dramatically better...) the biggest issue for the older gridties is the voltage ratio between the DC coming in (often only 400v or so) and the AC...

Actually, my experience with the east/west split showed no difference between the 'all north' neighbours installation and our 'half east/half west' of ours between summer and winter... Yes, the sun track moves north at midday (correct here in the southern hemisphere) but still rises and sets in...

That's become the norm for new installations here in Australia- and many owners of older systems are adding battery storage as well (usually BYD or Panasonic- the Tesla offerings are far more expensive per kWh, and have a shorter service life, making them less attractive economically)...

East/west is relatively common here in Australia, as are various other combinations... (NE/NW, N and W, N/E/W are all found...) In fact where I used to live, we had an east/west split gridtie- and a neighbour had an identical system but all facing north... (installed by the same company two days...