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I need some help getting the wires into my garage, I am kinda both lost and a little scared since it's punching a hole into the house. First, do I need to run cables inside a conduit? Initially/for a while, this will be a temporary install with the panels laying on the grass (more on this later...

EcoWorthy 12.8V 150Ah definitely shuts off (LVDC), I would expect the same from an equally high[er]-end product in their catalog such as the 25.6V 100Ah? Opening up mine didn't seem to be pouch cells, but I didn't take it apart more than just taking the top cover off (all-metal case), I can post...

Got it, I saw the Hardie Backer-specific screws, so just screw those directly in then? Sounds good! I also ordered that NO BURN spray, will see how it works, if it does it would save a step.

My only issue with concrete board is drilling into it, as I'm semi-asthmatic. I guess wearing a respirator would work, but there's post-drilling cleanup to deal with too that I'm not too excited about. Wonder how well that works. After @Bluedog225's suggestion, I also found this intumescent...

I have zero experience with paints, mind sending me a link? Would it be something they would mix? I looked on the shelves and couldn't find a single gray latex paint.

Your comment about the industrial look caught my eye and I wanted to do something like that, however I can’t seem to find any gray latex paint at HD/Lowes. All I found is a gray primer. What do you use? And do you prime first?

Late to the party here, I just wanted to add, both in reply to the quote above and to the thread subject: AC wants to travel to ground, insulation from the ground is a great additional layer of safety protection when working with AC. DC wants to return to its source, it will try to complete a...

Just wanted to make sure I got this right, according the calculators like this 1/0 should work up to 250A given it's open air, correct? And this should be the cabling all the way to the inverter not just to the fuse, right?

Very cool, I like the visual indication of when the caps are filled. Endgame would be to have some sort of automated circuit to do the lightbulb until the measured voltage across that circuit dropped to near 0V then switch off it, and reset the system every time the breaker is tripped...

Thanks, I use search exhaustively but for some reason I didn’t run into this. The pushbutton design looks good. This is a problem I did not anticipate, do most people not have a disconnect on the inverter? Or is everybody running prechsrge circuits? Thank you for all your help, and for pointing...

Got it, thanks. Where can I get more info on building something like this? I'm using a resistor as seen in Will's videos, but I see what you mean, if you manually trip the breaker, then turn it back on, you can experience the dreaded inrush. At this pace I don't think I'll ever get my system...

What about something like this to kill 2 birds with one stone? https://www.midnitesolar.com/productPhoto.php?product_ID=202&productCat_ID=39&sortOrder=1&act=p It lists an AIC of 50k @ 125VDC — not sure about reaction time?

Got it. 250A seems to still cover my use case with the additional +12%, which would put me at ~247A. Would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5118-Class/dp/B000MMC7SY/ Do I need a holder? Holders seem to be more expensive than the fuse.

What Class-T fuse do you guys recommend? I'm going by a basic formula I saw on the forum (thanks @John Frum!), starting with inverter and working backwards: 3000W max continuous / .85 conversion factor / 20V low cutoff = 176.5A service amps 176.5A / .8 fuse headroom = 220.6A fault amps So...

That doesn't seem bad at all, which ~15kWh prebuilt have you priced that competes with a delivery kit for only that much more?

So, basically, no real point in using +/- if you're gonna wrap the ends, right?

This looks like the best crimper out there, especially for the money (let's call it up to $100). The fact that it's dieless is a huge win as well. Just ordered one!

Mine just showed up today — do you recommend connecting load to the CC as its manual shows, or can I continue to just run my load off the battery? I would have to cut (read: "make") some cables to connect thru CC? Any big advantage to running thru the CC? I'd rather keep it simple with load...

I wonder, is there a way to get a DIY system inspected in some fashion so that it can be permitted? Ultimately, the prebuilts use the same cells, they just build it to a certain minimum standard, apply for UL listing, get it approved and then it's listed. Much how an inspection checks install...

Soooo, you can open just one end? Duh, why didn't I consider that :fp2 Yes, it is Isc, my panels are 45.2Voc & 11.02 Isc. I will be using this device which is rated 1000V/30A and is DC-only. Do you see any issue with doing so? It does come with MC4s, but I'm well under 30A for the connectors...

Yes I read that. I understand what's needed, but the diagrams and labels in the picture I posted above, which come from this very document, didn't make any sense. The two I notated as #1 & #2 say "4 Poles" but only show two connections. While I'm still a bit fuzzy, I now understand that they do...

I'm missing something obvious here, to my mind, the way this is shown if the PV input would be connected on the bottom terminals, the only two available, it would create a short when the switch is thrown on. Maybe there is some trickery where the top left goes to bottom right, like the IMO...

I apologize but I’m having a hard time understanding how the actual connections are made. Does one wire per polarity come from the single string to the switch? How is it wired then, let’s say the switch has 4 poles, 2 per polarity? Is it somehow split then fed thru to poles (per polarity), or...

Yep, clear on that, just confused by the 2nd and 3rd diagrams in the pic I posted. It says 4 Poles for both, but it also says Max No. Strings: 1 for both, and also to me it looks like the switches in each drawing only have 2 poles.. why would you ever even have 4 poles for 1 string? That looks...

Thanks, these look amazing! There is a highly educational video on the product page which I unfortunately can’t link (at least on mobile, will try on my workstation). I’m having trouble reading the diagrams, here’s what I’m looking at: I don’t understand the 1 & 2 versions, assuming the...

Did you happen to use it on LFP too? I normally charge at 3.55vpc which will basicallyt do absorb if the unit can switch to CV, I guess it's just missing float. Will I be able to run loads (off the CC) once battery voltage prompts CV mode?

I found that the 1000V/30A seems to have some advantages: It is DC-only and the Internal Spatial spec is listed as Bigger. Gonna pick one up. There's also this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJVNZ85N/ Which includes SPDs — is that something I need at this point? In the diagram there is a ground...

Unfortunate. Any local chains (ha!) that carry DC stuff? Thanks, checking them out and adding them to my list of specialized, quality parts suppliers. Thanks, that's what I was actually eyeing — I was actually thinking of picking one of these up so it comes in a box already...

Whoa, I'm so glad I asked. I am not 100% clear on how it happens, thanks guys! Def going for a breaker. To confirm my understanding, while I'm 100% going for a breaker (hoping to order tonight), turning the CC off would be another way to disconnect the load, correct? I guess I should also...

Very cool, much appreciate the info and thanks for paying it forward! Are the ones I linked at AAP the ones? They have a small sale (10% off) and they're in stock at my local store, thinking of picking up like 10 of them.

I'd like to know this too, and to learn how to tell this from reading specs of a CC. Are the stages you are referring to for charging? And how does that affect how it provides power to the load before/after bat is full — what are the possibilities here, a "dump load" and ..?

What breaker do you recommend? I'm having a tough time finding one, HD/Lowes don't seem to have DC stuff and on Amazon I'm not finding UL-listed ones, just some that say CE. Hard to discern quality, money is not a huge factor at this stage, it's for safety so I'd rather get a good one that...

Gotcha, I now realize it's literally called Megafuse (: Super small part right, like this? Seems prudent to pick some up esp since they seem rather cheap. Thanks for yet another useful tip!

I don't think so, the only difference is that I literally just finished assembling my YELLOW DEWALT rack on which this will go last night..

Thanks, I was a bit thrown off by the "daisy chain" in the title. Got it. Would there be a case other than accidental where this could occur? i.e. other than a physical wire/object shorting things out, could a cell inside a battery somehow become bad and cause a short? I'd think if so, it would...