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From dianea: ''It was a set of AC 600 volt fuses on a 500 volt DC feed from the panels'' AC voltage is way easier to break than DC voltage. It's why some class T fuse have 200ka AC interrupting rating, but only 20ka DC rating.

No! The limitation is often the ability to break DC voltage (DC rated AIC).

Trust quality fuse at low price in this thread: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/eaton-amx-and-amh-fuses-alternative-to-class-t.60804/

You read this wrong. It's 160V DC vs 300V AC. AC current is easier to break. Braking current capability is increasing as voltage is lower. So this kind of fuse with an AIC of 20kA at 160Vdc will have braking capability of over 50kA at 52V...

Here is the final result. Four 420W panels and two 50A MPPT. Everything work fine and it's a lot of power for this sailboat. The Starlink will caused some shade. I'm interested to know how much power will be kill by this one at different time of the day/years. Time will tell. But I did an...

No breaker?

He plan to develop proper module to use directly the NACS gun to power his inverter. So, use the 400V DC pins of the outlet.

Simple, almost 50% of the price when compare to canadian supplier of the 6000XP.

Yeah. Skylit, a solar installer in Nova Scotia, Canada who install LuxPower inverters. No store and they don't take credit card, so I was a bit stress during the three months of shipping. Still, I have 2 in hands. Mine and the second for a friend at work who plan to use his Tesla 3 as battery...

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhh! 4 years after had start to look at an affordable split phase inverter with 400Vdc input, my EG4 6000XP is there. Oups, I mean, my LuxPower SNA-US-6000 😉

This is without damaging cells during a discharge of 10 seconds. During a fraction of second short circuit, the amps can go very high (2-3kA). Hopefully, the fuse will blow and stop the short or the wrench, who caused the short, will melt then stop the short circuit ;)

That usually true for large capacity battery pack (let say 280Ah or more) or highly powerful cells. Here we are talking about 74 Ah cells who would give 2000-3000A during a short. The Mega HP fuses are rated to break 2500A @ 70Vdc, so a bit more at 51V (around 3800A). There is also the AMX fuse...

Thanks to share vidéo. Nice to see this going foward. No. A 48V motor can be 96% efficient and a 800V motor can be 96% efficient. The difference is the first one will give few kW and the second one will give around hundred kW. If you plan to play with Tesla motor, the permanent magnet one on...

Yeah! Rated 900Vdc (y)

Where do you read that Krystian0 need to have a 48V coil? It need to switch 48V, it's different.

Yeah! We need more details.

You can find plenty of relays rated for 60Vdc or more on Digikey or Mouser for few bucks. But if you want a bullet proof solution, look at EV relay with coil economizer. Many 30A to 100A new relays available or a 500A used relay available here...

You can start with the available area on the top you want to dedicate to the solar panels. Realistically, you can't expect to charge more than 5-6 kWh per day, but it's still feasible.

It's exactly what happen to many peoples who tried this. There is few threads on this forum of people connecting their EV to an AIO. Here is my build thread: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/360v-dc-input-split-phase-120v-240v-ac-inverter.15036/page-6

That a point for using the DC pins to power the house. The lost are lower (efficiency higher) when I connect my 64 kWH 360V EV battery to the MPPT input who simply charge house DC battery. No DC/AC + AC/DC conversion, simply DC to DC at high efficiency.

Yes, you are right in the case of bi-directional charger (AC-DC). My comment was about using DC pins of the fast charge port to supply device like what peter nooy share post #44 or like the Ford charge station pro... or when I power MPPT input of my AIO ;)

Nice! Thanks to share. Still, the EV need to be V2L/V2X ready. Many EV are not ready, or I would say, many manufacturers don't allow their EV's to be ready. Theoretically, all EV should be ready, but sadly many don't have proper software to be ready.

Based on this on the spec sheet I would say yes, but there isn't any breaking capability graph. ''The HVBD is not intended for make/break switching above 100V''

It's why you need fuse with rated current interrupting rating. This thread will help you understand: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/eaton-amx-and-amh-fuses-alternative-to-class-t.60804/

If that can inspire you ;) 44 x 35 x only 4.5'' thick.

I use a JBD contactor smart BMS in my house battery. I prefer contactor over mosfet, but It's a personal choice. About your project, do you think about rebuilding your Leaf battery? It's was a plan I had few years ago. Take a 24 kWh Leaf and swap battery module to have around 40 kWh. Example...

Don't... Don't add active balancer who, if they fail, can caused serious problem to those good quality used EV cells. About BMS you have two choice: You are the BMS or you buy a BMS. After drove thousand miles in my DIY EV without BMS I would say... buy a BMS. 200$ contactor BMS is a safe bet...

3C. Just for clarification we are talking here of C-rate, so a discharge at 3C. t3l3c0mman, do you saw this thread: https://diysolarforum.com/threads/ryobi-zero-turn-mower-sla-to-lifepo4-conversion-updated-build-complete-with-pics.22922/

JBD with contactor for high load. Contactor are generally better for high load like EV's and your mower. Like Smart BMS 7-20S 300A

Of course it's only for few seconds. Anyway this car reach 200 km/h after 6 seconds :unsure:😝 After all it's still a comfortable 5 places sedan super useful to go to the grocery store with family. And after the 2000A discharge for brutal acceleration it can cruise at highway speed with 50A... nuts!

Yes, over 2000A from the battery and separate between 3 motors. It need that to achieve 1020 HP at 400V.

From what I know the Tesla plaid with higher speed (by Ingenext) reach = 216 mph (348 km/h) Gear ratio: 7.56 to 1, tires 305/30R20, so 461 tire turn / km, that give motor 20,214 rpm

No. You will simply end with three 315Ah cell with low impedance and one almost 315Ah cell with higher impedance. It's easier to have a good connection between busbar and cells terminals than between cell terminal lug, wire, lug and cell terminal.

Correct. Manually balance once-a-year or even less depending of BMS capability and cells quality. There is no chance that a single cell been out of voltage in your arrangement. It's because cells in parallel can have differents characteristics. An extreme example: You have three cells in...

The thing is peoples want EV with big range who imply big battery. With big battery, high peak power is almost free. That why many EV have outrageous peak power number and are the most powerful vehicle in their category. (sedan, pick-up, SUV etc).