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@Cmiller — you said you’re successfully AC coupling off-grid with XW Pro? I’m having major power quality issues with a Sunny Boy (XW Pro in backup mode), and will eventually start my own thread. But for right now, I just wonder which GT inverter you’re using?

I was referring to this statement: @AntronX seemed to float the idea of hacking the ECU via CAN to get a sustained 16kW output. But if the Toyota guys implemented a time limit on the forced charge like you described, then I don’t think I’d even want to attempt to seek that kind of continuous...

Based on behavior I’ve seen, the voltage and current limit isn’t stored in non volatile memory. If CAN comms is lost, or power cycled, it reverts to default voltage, which must be written to nonvolatile memory. At $50/unit, seems worth a gamble to experiment. I’d sure like to know how this...

It’s a 2012 Prius V.

FWIW, I’ve already got CAN control working on the Flatpack2, able to set voltage, current, and default voltage. Using ESPHome, and the code for multiple units needs to be modularized, but I’ve got it working with two units. If I can really feed up to 400VDC into these things and use them as...

Appreciate your sharing of knowledge! I'd love to know exactly how much worse the efficiency is, but taking into consideration the benefits and versatility, it's hard for me to imagine a standalone generator being superior for rare/occasional use. It'll be one less piece of equipment to own and...

Bummer. I'd prefer if my tap/mod was only hot when the car's ignition is on. This gives me confidence that I'm not likely to overburden or wear out any of its components with a few hours at 2000W or less. (y)

I can't even believe I'm typing this right now... I installed a grid-tied Sunny Boy PV system on my in-laws' garage roof, and it's been running perfectly for nearly two years. Recently, the red light on the inverter came on indicating an error: failure in string C. Not coincidentally, the...

Yikes. Curious to know what voltage that was... @GXMnow shared a similar story in another thread not too long ago, in response to @SeaGal 's assertion that 48V may be safer than 12V, given the lower amps per unit of power (which I tend to agree with, on its face). Seems sweaty arms are something...

I've already got a pair of XW Pros on the wall, and 48V battery attached to them--and these high-efficiency telecom 48V rectifiers on hand, paid $50 each. If I smoke one, it's not a major loss. Not really sure why I would want to spend another $2000+, unless it's to have some extra redundancy on...

It's a DC Solar trailer. I filled the 100 gallon tank with off-road (dyed) diesel in summer. Added a preservative later, but not sure if it mixed well. Meanwhile, a close family member manages a fleet of commercial trucks, and had major issues with gelled fuel during that "polar vortex" event...

I recently picked up an old, used Prius. Planning to use it for transport, and hope to fall back on it as a generator, should the need arise. I've read plenty of threads about using the Prius 12V system to drive an inverter, and the inverter to drive a battery charger, but I'm seriously...

I got a phone call from co-op asking if I had solar, since my usage had basically gone down to zero. I confessed I did, but explained that the system was isolated from the grid, connected like a backup generator. Guy from the co-op said that's fine, but I couldn't connect an inverter to the grid...

Yep, exactly. My local co-op has raised their "availability charge" by nearly 100% in just 2 years, while dropping per kWh rates. They've also had ads in their "free" monthly magazine urging members to contact their politicians about unfair net metering. (aside: I do agree that net metering is...

I'm interested in this, as well--I've got 16x 100ah 12V nominal LFP batteries. They were on a 12V Victron split phase, but I've since moved to a 48V inverter, so now they're in 4S4P. I added an active balancer on each 4S string. The cost is significantly lower than, for example, EG4 server rack...

Well, in fairness, it isn't my idea. The below text is verbatim from SMA's website: I don't expect to find an 18A fuse, which is why I wonder if a 15A would work... I just want to make sure the inverter isn't being abused, or its warranty voided. ;)

I guess I should have referenced the specs from SMA. It clearly says 18 amps: Edit: just realized there's a Sunny Boy 7.7 SE (Storage Edition??). So it looks like I should have specified my actual model, which is the 7.7-US-41

I'm trying to free up an MPPT on my Sunny Boy 7.7 (edit: US-41 model) by paralleling 2 identical strings with an ISC of 9.75A, 19.5A once combined. Each MPPT can only handle 18A, according to SMA's specs. Sunny Design gives the following warning: I'd really like to take suitable measures for...

Well, if you're being fair, it doesn't have quite the same surge capacity as a pair of 6848 units. He didn't mention if he intends to AC couple--I've read lots of issues with that, too. About to embark on my own adventure with AC coupling. Hopefully my experience is smoother than others have...

I'm using IQ7's with a pair of Sunny Islands. I had some trouble until I found the right grid profile, which actually mentioned the XW Pro in the description, if I recall correctly. Seems like it's a bit of a trick to get AC coupling to work for both on and off-grid purposes. I've yet to try AC...

I'm trying to adapt to the Schneider Conext XW Pro 6848, coming from Victron gear. I was used to setting a single modbus register with a positive or negative number to indicate the targeted power to be drawn from or backfed into AC1. It seems to be a whole different paradigm with Schneider. I'm...

When I first started dipping my toes in the water with solar, I had a 3000W Windy Nation inverter w/ a Battle Born 100ah 12V battery. Later, I picked up a 2nd battery, and that's when I learned that The Right Way™ to connect a pair of parallel batteries is with the POS lead to one, the NEG lead...

Would you be willing to share where to find the EPC charge current address? I don't see it in the modbus map, and when I search, it seems @GXMnow had the same issue. I previously had a Victron split phase setup doing a very similar setup to yours, basically just grabbing whatever solar...

Be curious to know what you figured out in the end. In my case, I could hear my generator slowing down and speeding up, and eventually figured out it was fuel starved, since the diesel had begun to gel in the near-0ºF temperatures! I could see the fuel in the bowl running out as it slowed down...

On the chart, that was the current getting that high, not voltage. He had it set to 57.6, and it only went to 57.2 or so, according to the charts. Glad to see that less aggressive charge settings helped--I'm hoping to implement something similar, glad you shared your experience here!

I've got one of these units sitting on a shelf--seems to have leaked its refrigerant, as it gradually did a worse and worse job of cooling. Happened under warranty, so I got a refund from Midea. Kinda glad, cause my inverter hated it! Horrible LED flicker that was eventually traced to this...

Also, it's pretty easy to verify the N-G bond. With all power off, you should measure continuity from N to G, and after breaking the bond in the panel, there should no longer be continuity. Replace the bond, confirm continuity, and you'll know you've got it right. 👍

For what it's worth, Roanoke, VA is a city nearby the scenic Blue Ridge Parkway, has an iconic star overlooking it, and as far as I know, has nothing to do with the lost colony--other than sharing the name. ;) I do hope to see @Looneyintheboonies63! again! I've "felt" 12V while leaning over a...

This is the issue, @olivefarmer . Imagine you have all your Sunny Boys hooked up, and you're consuming their full peak output. Suddenly, your consumption load switches off. Sunny Boys are all outputting their full power--where does it go? Until the frequency can be shifted, that power has to be...

Well, it wasn't my intention to fear-monger or exaggerate, but long strings of rainy/cloudy days do happen. There will be days when there simply isn't (hasn't been) enough solar, and you're faced with the choice of running a generator, or cutting back use. Somehow, I glossed over this seemingly...

Lots of other good advice here already. My two cents: If you want to completely ditch the grid, it'll entail an extreme lifestyle adjustment. I've been "off-grid" for over a year now, so I am speaking from experience here. You'll need: a substantial up-front investment of: money for panels...

Interesting solution... I've wondered about this before. Seems like a diode, resistor, or in this case, even an inline fuse might be enough to drop the voltage into tolerance.

Any reason you don't go 4P? Trying to save on MC4 connectors? I'm with @n2aws, don't see why you'd ever want to approach vmax. I can tell you that I briefly paralleled an IQ7 (2P 60-cell panels) and it worked fine.

Oh, yeah, gotcha! I picked up one of these Vevor 600W micros, but ended up returning it when I found out it couldn't even output half its rated power on a summer day due to overheating, which changed the value calculation drastically. Combined with lack of Rule 21, it just wasn't worth messing...

Well, I guess I'm a bit of a unicorn? I've got a completely off-grid solar setup with both AC and DC-coupled solar, and it seems to work just fine. AC coupled PV provided by Sunny Boy and IQ7s. SB is set to "SMA Island" mode, and IQ7s have an off-grid profile loaded. Both smoothly dial back...