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UPDATE: I don't know how it does it but we dropped the battery into his car on Friday and it does in fact, start the car. Only thing that I can think of is that the BMS isn't controlling discharge current (no MOSFETs?). Didn't have my clamp meter so I don't have any numbers.

I had just stumbled on this one. https://www.amazon.com/Elefast-Bluetooth-Temperature-Protection-31/dp/B0D1P9C29V Great price with shipping, bluetooth. The tear down video looked good.

So one 12v battery is 12.8v x 200amps (continuous rating) would be 2560 watts. That is correct. Now put two in parallel and you have 12.8V X 400A for 5120W. Take the same two in series and your bank is 25.6V x 200A for the same 5120W. Same watts whether in series or parallel. With that said...

In 4S the current doesn't divide. If the inverter needs 200A, that current will be the same in each battery. I have a 12V system with my batteries in parallel and in my installation, the current does divide between the batteries. On the battery negative post, only the shunt should be connected...

You may need to get the battery charged up a little before the MPPT can start doing its thing.

There is a meter specific to test ground rod resistance. I was thinking there was wording in the code that the ground should be 25 ohms or less and if not you need to drive another rod. Cheaper to install two rods all the time rather than the cost of a tester.

I don't see capacity in those numbers unless there was no load on the battery. At 28.41V I'd call it charged and it looks like solar made 2.90kWh. The 6.1A of current makes me wonder where it is going if the battery is charged. I'll guess a nominal battery capacity of 2.56kWh so it would look...

I think what's happening is that one of the batteries hits a high voltage (cell or battery) and opens the charging MOSFETs. The inverter will complete a series circuit. Batt1, Batt2, Batt3, Batt4, Inverter and back to Batt1. The 36V reading is actually the sum of the 3 batteries that didn't cut...

Give the Overkill Solar app a try. It allows access to the functions.

In addition to the inconvenience of flip/flopping the connections, you will not have a 12V source during the time that they are wired for 24V charging. I agree with the get another solar controller to use the panels.

I ran my bank down and turned on the charging overnight. This morning my AiLi shunt shows 766.4Ah and my LIONTRON app shows 766.82Ah (which does in fact equal the sum of the Ah reported by the 3 BMSs). In my trailer I have about a 1A parasitic draw and I do see drift between the shunt reading...

The converter in my trailer sits at 3.40 per cell (12V system). I tweaked balancing to start at 3.30. It's passive JBD so pretty slow balance. I call it pretty darn full. If I bump the voltage up, I'll see a runner so I keep it at 3.40.

I'm curious if anyone knows about the Elfhub. https://www.amazon.com/Elfhub-Bluetooth-LiFePO4-Lithium-Battery/dp/B0CNVFZ933

I recall an issue with Ampere Time batteries (before they changed the name to LiTime) but don't recall specifics. I did find this video: Could be some issues have followed the rebrand.

My BMS has programable settings for battery voltage and cell voltage. At the battery level (sum of 4 cells) 14.6V is the cutout and 14.0V is the release. At the cell level 3.650V is the cutout and 3.500V is the release. So if one of my cells hits 3.65V the BMS will cutout until the cell...

Are your battery and panel connections restored? You should see activity on charge controller screen, check cable connection to MT50.

The 100% battery gives me pause. I'm thinking that its discharge circuit isn't engaged. One test would be to split them and run just one at a time. With your diagonal connections to a parallel set of batteries, your are correct, they should deplete equally.

In my old traffic signal days, we used a 50A toggle switch version as a main power switch in the controller cabinets on the corner. I've seen them on inverters and other equipment as well. I think they would meet the need but can't speak for the particular item linked to.

Not to ruin your thought experiment but isn't hydrogen gas corrosive to lead? My 100W panels are more like 20+V and closer to 5A output. I have 300W of solar (flat mounted) on my trailer and I ran some numbers in May and got about 100A pumped back into my battery in a day of good sunshine. My...

You might check out panel mount circuit breakers like: https://www.amazon.com/RKURCK-125-250V-Circuit-Overload-Protector/dp/B07QWRNBRG It would void the TS-30 warranty but would be slick to be mounted/wired inside.

I like the idea of something that could just pop in the place of a fuse (will need a connection to the negative as well). The normal shunts measure the current in the negative leg wouldn't work in the positive (fused) leg. My bluetooth BMS has been my tool to measure usage. Works great for fixed...

My concern would be with shore power that is not split for 240V operation. If you use the 30A adapter or a spot with older electrical you would only have single phase 120V. If the EG4 is set up for a single phase then it wouldn't be an issue.

I'm thinking rather than variable voltage, how about PWM? That's how dimmers work. Energy is the same if you apply half the voltage all the time, or all the voltage half the time. Increase pulse width at the temperature drops. Sensor placement in the box shouldn't be critical. Everything in the...

40A at 24V would be 80A at 12V from the alternator. Factor in conversions and you're looking at closer to 100A from the alternator.

I think a switch is a bad idea. Charge them both up and wire in parallel and you're in business. What you don't want to do is hook a discharged battery and charged battery together (with wiring or a switch) because the current flow will be very high.

I thought that pre charge was to protect the BMS.

Here's what I'm thinking. Determine the location for the new inverter. Determine the wire size and fusing. Wire the inverter positive to battery positive, and inverter negative to battery negative. Enjoy your 120VAC power. The installation hasn't messed with any of your existing wiring and I...

USB won't work for the laptop. Your adapter is making 12VDC at 3A. Your van battery is 12V but is not exact, varies with charging to over 14V, depending on the alternator. Check your laptop to see if a car adapter is available.

Your 100A BMS is the limiting factor. I just ran out to my trailer and gave it a test with my microwave and found that mine draws 80-85A. That doesn't give you much headroom and I prefer not taxing the limits. If you are nuking something and the refrigerator kicks on along with any other 12V...

You need to take another look at the transformer to read the output voltage. That will determine your charging needs along with the current requirements.

Couple of questions. Is this chassis cable the only one on the negative side of the bank, or are there some others connected? How does the positive side of the bank get to the 12V fuse panel? Where does the fuse panel pick up the negative? I suspect that your converter ties positive and...

If this change is only to add capacity there is no need to mess with the wiring. I'd do the jumpers for 100A just for consistency and after they are in parallel, move the system positive or negative to the new battery to give you a diagonal connection to evenly split the charging and load currents.

I'm with SeaGal. My thinking is that having the 14V present won't work if the battery is charged. I suspect that the BMS senses a charging current to trigger the event. I was picturing a couple in parallel where one hits the low temp threshold first and starts pulling from the other battery.

I want to keep an eye on this thread as well. I have a functioning absorption fridge running now but looking at future replacement. I like the idea of the compressor fridge because it will get me a bunch more interior space and fit in the same hole. The 12VDC or 120VAC question is a little...

Unless the shipping container has 12V stuff to power, I would skip the 48-12V conversion. Run power from the container to the RV at the 120VAC level. At the RV your container power will run all the RV 120VAC stuff and the converter will make the 12V for the DC stuff and keep the RV battery...