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@SignatureSolarJess - can you confirm if the powerpro breaker cover is lockable?

Anybody with one that can check or post a closeup of the breaker cover?

Did a little searching, but can't find the answer... Is the breaker on the side of the powerpro (well at a minimum the cover) lockable in the open position? I.e. can I open the breaker, lock the cover. My local AHJ is insisting on a lockable disconnect between the Powerpro and Luxpower 18k...

@elusivesd Any luck on finding the source code? I just want to double check the required registers. My Lux 12k is here now, but want to bench test prior to final installation. Thanks!

Never said it was a good price! but still good to see more options in Canada... Those Volthium ones look pretty decent... I'm going to keep looking!

Looks like this is coming, pre-order to Canada. $6,500 CAD https://solarpowerstore.ca/collections/battery-mapleleaf/products/gsl-14-34kw-51-2v-280a-wall-mounted-lifepo4-batteries-16s-for-solar-system-grade-a-cell-bms-cables-included Appears to be a branded version similar to the EG4 PowerPro...

Alright, I think I have the right 'tools' to make this work with Luxpower, but after reading some of the challenges others are having with near net zero export, it has me seriously considering Sol-Ark. Anyone heard of remote energy meters with Sol-Ark? Everything I see is just CT's....

Awesome! If you can share portions of the ESP32 code, I'm going to do something very similiar. Only potential hiccup/modification is that I might try to go: CircuitSetup ==> ESP32 (at Mains), parallel post to emoncms/HA ==> MQTT ==> ESP32 (in powershed) ==> LXP If the MQTT +Wifi isn't fast...

@elusivesd : Can you share the custom code for emulating the SDM630? Really keen on making something like this work! Even just a github link would be awesome!

Other than the SDM630 (which seems hard to source in North America), what other modbus based power meters have other successfully integrated with the Sol-Ark or Luxpower (lux says only the SD630).... I'm quite familiar with modbus/rs485.. so I guess I could emulate exactly what the inverter is...

Good Day All: Looking for some advice/experience. I am early in planning an install that would utilize either a Sol-Ark or Luxpower inverter (both seem to meet Canadian code). One (of many) challenges I am facing is that I want to mount this inverter/batteries/solar away from the main house...

Currently the rates for the ULO weekends are 7.4c, which is the same as the off peak regular TOU pricing. The mid-peak ULO (7am-4pm, 9pm-11pm) are the same as the TOU mid-peak (10.2C) So basically, yes - if you can shift a significant amount of peak usage (from 4pm-9pm) Mon-Fri, then you are...

Yeah, I've got a 24V solution with some solar (about 1.9kw) - about 3.6kWh of storage. Mostly using it to offset freezers/fridges/computers. I do have 2 EV's, so looks to make sense. Only challenge is the central AC, which I need from 4-9pm... don't think my 24V system can offset that...

And the ULO rates are coming May 1! https://www.oeb.ca/consumer-information-and-protection/electricity-rates/historical-electricity-rates#ulo 2.4c/kWh 11pm-7am but... 24c/kWh 4pm-9pm

Tightened all connections, and checked the other battery. About 150mV drop from the + post on the battery to the inverter (via the T-class and breaker). Most of the drop is across the breaker... and this is the same on both batteries... so, probably crappy breaker, but do I care?

Based on my experience now, it is just the MPPT re-setting and hunting for a new peak voltage. The trigger for this seems to be either the battery voltage changing (new load, etc.), changing from grid/battery, as well as very low charge current from the solar. No fundamental 'problem' I guess...

So under a higher load (15-20A) the voltage drop is right at the breaker (not at the fuse connection). Since I just have stranded wire into the breaker (no ferrule, or crimped connection), it's probably that is isn't tight enough, or loosened off once under higher load/temperature. Can I assume...

And the 5.4mV drop is on a 10A charging load, so resistance of 0.0054 ohms?

from @740GLE : Are you wiring batteries to a bus bar then inverter to the bus bar? Or are you double stacking lugs on the inverter? Pack 1 on top, 2 on bottom Single leads to inverter/charger. SCC connected the opposite way across the batteries Inside, T-Class on the + of the battery, and...

Cross post to the BMS forum now (link here). Will post there to try to combine.

Hmm... 5.4mV across the breaker on the lower performing battery, and total 6.2mV from + post to +post on the battery (through breaker + T-class fuse. Doesn't seem much, but probably is the culprit. I'll take apart and tighten + compare to the other battery tomorrow

great idea.. and simple!

I'll check the internal connections again (and tighten), but need to turn it all off as the batteries are stacked in plastic boxes. I have a thermal IR detector, but not likely sensitive enough to get this.

I have 2x24V (8s) batteries, 75ah each Both are on JBD BMS', monitored and historized data in home assistant. I have also made the settings on both JBD's identical, and confirmed that at rest (no load connected) the current meter reads 0. I have them wired in parallel with the same length...

I guess I should have posted this in the BMS forum... Mods, you can delete this one, and I'll post over there.

I have 2x24V (8s) batteries, 75ah each Both are on JBD BMS', monitored and historized data in home assistant. I have also made the settings on both JBD's identical, and confirmed that at rest (no load connected) the current meter reads 0. I have them wired in parallel with the same length...

Yup.. I have the tesla_custom plugin working, as well as teslamate, but all read-only. If you can share what you used for sending commands, I can likely figure the rest out.

Also, please share how you integrated to dynamically change charge current on the car :)

What fastener did you use at the top of the strut to create the hinge? Looking to do something similar!

I know the answer to this is probably 'you get what you pay for', but figured I would try anyways. I received a JBD-SP22S003 pre-configured for 8s LFP, which includes a built-in bluetooth. for reference, I have an overkill one on my other pack, so have wired this up with great success before...

I don't seem to want to let this one go. Thinking back to the BMS argument, if I wanted to use 2 of these in series for a 24V load (and I don't care if it turns off when one battery his low voltage), but CHARGE them as 2 separate 12V circuits..... Think multi-bank charger on a boat - charges...

Generic response... Unfortunately, our Lithium Batteries are only designed to connect in parallel as they may damage the unit if it is connected in series.

Still doesn't make sense to me. The voltage potential across each BMS is the same (~12-14V). I get that you could run into a weird situation where the BMS on battery A turns off because the battery is full/empty, causing the entire pack to turn off. Maybe I'll email Renogy and ask what the...

I'm still struggling to understand the reason that the renogy batteries can't work in series. - I understand the need to properly match/balance the SOC and voltage of both batteries - I understand that if (when) they do get out of sync, a manual balance would be necessary - I understand that you...

Likely... had a good 3-4 hours today where it didn't do this... seems to be specifically when the charging current is less than 1A. Once above that, seems to stabilize.