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Wago 221s are rated at 32A, they come in various configurations. If it's just butt joining then they have a connector for that now.

I have a Giandel 24v psw inverter, works pretty well, struggles sometimes with surges but that is probably not unique to it. Yes it doesn't have a transfer switch or automatic internal ground neutral bonding both of which would have saved me a lot of headaches handling both myself in the shed...

Yes this is what an mppt charger does, converts high voltage PV into the correct voltage to charge your battery at. You don't need to restrict yourself to any particular panel voltage so long as the total series string voltage is over 16~V and the VoC is lower than 100V.

I can't help with vehicle systems but there's a dedicated sub forum for it: https://diysolarforum.com/forums/vehicle-mounted-systems.7/

SCC = Solar Charge Controller, charges the battery from solar panels. Charger = AC to DC Charger, charges the battery from the mains. As a forum tip it's best to use the reply button which will quote someone's post (you can cut it down to the section you're responding to) and also notify the...

Beware UK regulations around feeding back to the grid. I have not checked as my setup is completely off grid but to feedback they might require that the entire system is professionally installed and uses 100% certified products, batteries and everything included. I am not sure about this but...

I went with standalone components. I have separate SCC, inverter and charger. I can control the charger with a simple smart plug to charge when electricity is under a certain rate. I prefer the complete control I have over the system rather than relying on settings on an AiO that may or may not...

When you reduce the voltage you need a thicker cable to cover such a distance. If you put the numbers into that calculator even for a 5% voltage drop you'd need 25mm2. Obviously not going to be practicable over such a distance. I'd recommend just finding the best spot you can near the house...

Normal as in not over priced.

I really am not trying to offend you with this but this shows your lack of knowledge about how this works. Listen to the people here, save yourself a lot of hassle and just connect in series to the mppt. The datasheet you posted in the other thread shows Imp = 12.9A. You have to read and...

These are going on the roof of an RV I assume? Both at the same angle, I really don't understand why you don't just save a lot of hassle and connect in series. Also again, if you can return these panels and buy normal 400w ones do it. You've been ripped off, sorry.

You have repeatedly ignored all actual answers to your question and requests for more info so we can help you properly. You most likely do not need anything more than a 30A Y split. Give us the spec for your panels. The fact that that wasn't the first information you gave us proves you do not...

Listen to what the people with real experience and knowledge are saying to you and weigh that against your lack of experience. Learn when given the opportunity to and disregard preconceived ideas that you have no evidence for.

Take a photo of the datasheet on the back of your panels or link to them here so we can help you more easily instead of guessing at your panels output. I'd also suggest using the beginners corner for any future questions or reading up on basics for solar setup. There are a lot of helpful people...

Impossible to know if over panelling would cause issues, it depends on the SCC. Victron can't take much excess current but others don't care. The risk is the controller burning up in the van which isn't worth it to me. Just connect two panels for now unless you want to get that epever one I...

Hrm OK, usually input current limit would be given in amps. I'd be wary of putting more than 2 panels on that mppt then it that is a hard limit. Sounds like you'll need another charge controller if you want to use all 3 panels.

I tried to find the datasheet for your mppt model but failed. That's the problem with random amazon products sadly. Most mppts will only pull the current they need so can be safely over panelled. If in doubt just disconnect the third panel once the input starts to get near to being clipped...

If I were you I would just see how you get on with your current mppt wired in parallel. Yes it will clip at 390w but you might be surprised at how little that matters with a 600w array laid flat in winter :)

Amp rating is for the charge side. A 30A MPPT means it can charge a 24V battery at 680W for example. You need to check what the input limits are though, the most important is the max VoC, you've already found that is going to limit you connecting these in series as that would be 69V, far too...

I don't think this is a good idea. Parallel inverters have communication to sync their output and phase. It will be much easier to just have a second charger that charges the batteries from the wind turbine.

Just read through your previous thread. It sounds like you're concerned at the low current level at 40V. That's probably just down to the time of year and poor light. I assume the current of 5.5A is with all your series connected in parallel? For reference I have 2.5kw of panels that yesterday...

Tell us your situation and the problem you're trying to solve, there's possibly a better solution here.

OK so you are trying to use a lifepo4 bms for lithium ion. Have you checked the data sheet for the bms to ensure it can work with lithium ion? Any particular reason you are using lithium ion?

It would be useful to know what you have tried so far, pictures of your battery setup and connected to the bms. Description of the cable you are using to connect to the bms from which device. I haven't used jakiper myself but I'm sure others have, they just can't help you if you give no details.

I haven't done a lot of research into it but I believe the windmill could be connected to an mppt input so long as its voltage is high enough.

I was surprised but just going on the ops post but yea, looks like that's 37.1 Voc.

If the panels are 37.1A then that would mean about 10.8V. VoC would be higher but not a problem.

For that low current you could get away with 10 awg cable. You could use 8 awg to reduce voltage loss but probably not worth it. https://www.fabhabs.com/dc-cable-sizing-calculator

HI, yes I have had it up and running for a couple of months now. Pity about the complete lack of sun at this time of year in the UK :D I chose not to use a contactor and instead just connect the neutral going in to the RCD directly to the earth. This should work as the ATS should not let the...

2Awg should be fine for a 6ft 63A max.

You'll have better luck for questions like this in https://diysolarforum.com/forums/beginners-corner.52/ To give a quick back of the napkin starting point though you work out the current (3000/48) and size your cable based on that and the required length. Edit: @sunshine_eggo gave a much more...

It's something you asked about early on but I don't think you got an answer. If you have the ability to switch over to using the generator instead of solar then that will be much better in terms of efficiency than charging your batteries from the generator. You're looking at about a 20% loss...

You can put 4 panels on each roof face in series and connect each series string in parallel. I would ignore north facing panels as they won't produce much. Let's say that leaves you with 4 strings of 4 panels so 4s4p configuration. You will want to use a combiner box to combine the strings...

About 6 pages into that thread that's already been posted I took all the results and put them in this spreadsheet for easier reading: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1PU2_HZraep5-EVLLCGmJSKsUOBcw5b0Q5xJZrpVMg6w/edit#gid=0 I don't know if anyone has updated it with further results since...

https://www.itstechnologies.shop/ worked great for me, was the cheapest around and good selection. I went with: 415W JA Solar Mono PERC Half-Cell MBB Black Frame Solar Panel £104 + vat × 6 New and I've seen them get good charge even though they are poorly angled (shed roof sadly).