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Ha! Nope. I currently have 2 PV arrays, one on the roof, and one on the ground (which catches later afternoon sun)--a second CC will help me maximize charging potential. At most, I'd need 2 CCs for my setup at any voltage.

Thanks, that sounds like a good plan. For 48V system (or 36) will also need to rethink PV arrays to get higher voltages. Currently it’s designed for 12V —with low volts in.

Thanks. Got a great deal on the batteries —buy one get one free—already have $$$ concerns—but will cost almost as much to parallel in a second CC and wiring keeping the 3 batteries in parallel @ 12 volts, so considering all options.

I see people using 36V systems for boat/marine, but is it Ill advised for an off-grid cabin? I now have 3, 100ah lifepo4 batteries and if I string them in series, for 36V, I can input more solar. My Victron 150/35 MPPT says it will work with 36V. I know I’d need to find a 36V inverter (and my...

Yes it has a Danfoss/Secop compressor.

Sorry, didn’t see your links to inline fuse holder. One more question: can I use an 8 gauge inline fuse holder like the one listed above, but just swap in a 15A fuse instead of the 40A fuse that comes with it (which would make it a little easier to connect to the 8AWG wire)? Thanks again!

Thanks. Very helpful. Any suggestions on how best to add a 15A fuse between the 8AWG wire and the batt. terminal? Will I need a small DC fuse box?

Thanks, yeah, I've looked at some things like that. I'm wondering if I really need a 15A fuse, as recommended by the manufacturer, or if that size fuse was assuming you just used the stock wire coming out of the fridge and didn't extend it 30' with 8AWG wire.

I have a Unique 10.3 cu.ft. 12 V. DC fridge (pulls 53watts, 524wh in 24 hours). According to the manual, I should use 8 Gauge wire for the 30foot run. It also says a "15amp fuse should be installed in-line near the battery terminal" (and that it's included--but it is not). My system is pretty...