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NWI, Nipsco, think they just increased rates (not as bad as other states, but still...)

He's a wizard

Option 1 is the only one that he can do unless he runs something thicker than 10ga wire since the runs are so long. But this is also what I'd do.

Ya, definitely looks big and ugly, but if it's a single unit, could be cleaner, if it's rated code wise, etc too.

https://inspectapedia.com/electric/Electrical-Panel-Clearance-Distances.php

The breaker panel sounds interesting, having to piece together a bunch of individual pieces while not a big deal does take up more space and is a bit more to organize.

If using 10ga wire I would avoid combining on the roof and running it, that 5+% loss is high for that length of a run.

4 groups of 9 would be nice but it goes over sol-arks wattage limit per mppt. 8 works though then you couldn't use the final 4 panels (Voc too low for the mppt). In this case I'd go with, in each of the three mppts, 6s2p and home run each string to the sol ark, but that's just me. 120ft away...

There are electric water heaters that run off 120V, rheem proterra, so that could help a ton. For things like the well pump, think of startup load.

Been looking at a 48k btu hyper-heat unit, need something that can provide about that at ~0°F and can attach to an air handler, not the easiest to find.

I have an old see thermal pro cameral (usb-c version for android). I chose it for the pixels (resolution). I think there may be better cameras out now.

1 story with walkout basement? ~2ksqft? when was it built? Around freezing it sounds like ~40kwh/day to heat, how's it doing with the near zero per day (looks like 4kwh/hr, or 96kwh/day)?

For code, 9540 listed with the 15k, I'd generally say pytes or homegrid both likely give the best bang per buck right now.

If looking at battery backup only, I'd look at the new ecoflow system if you didn't want to diy something else. There's something to be said for turn key solutions.

you could also downrate the main breaker to 175A and be good

Being able to take it out is good for maintenance, I don't think it's a nec or code thing.

would be interesting to see if some of the higher end phillips ultra definition bulbs have the same problem.

Are you open or closed loop?

moka pot is awesome for power outage situations, just make sure you have a grinder ready as well.

I'm not sure that's supported by SS, I'd reach out to them to verify and get instructions.

Until there is something more standardized I think hooking a chargeverter up to a car outlet and backfeeding through that will be the way to go. It can be nice to have a secondary use for all those kwh, but at least for my use case, a chargeverter is probably the way to go.

To give an idea of peak usage, my peak usage is 11kw (measured on a 30 second interval). Almost never go above 5kw though (that's the AC). electric dryer electric oven ~2.5-3 ton AC ~300W of server load (small rack) other general loads In the winter my average is ~1kw, summer is ~2-2.5kw

That's true forgot about the 'delay' time for fuses. Really it's about protecting all aspects from that initial chaotic bull rush of current.

Not sure I should post a link to this here or another forum. This helps show why a resistor is necessary when connecting a battery to a load (like capacitors in most inverters). What a resistor gives you is a way to slow down the initial load (electron inrush if you will), allowing you to stay...

Sounds about as expected, there's another area that would probably work, just farther from the main panel. Thanks for the quick answer :D

Hi, looking good, How wide along the walls are the batteries (including required spacing from the wall itself)? I'm wondering if it can fit in a 8 or 9 foot wide section of wall. Is it inspected and all that (UL9540 stickers, etc) too?

An alternative, which is a little more expensive but is almost the exact same dimensions as pytes (0.1" wider) (and explicitly supports parallel up to 10 stacks is homegrid. They also don't specify clearances :| One benefit of though is that the stacks go up to 38.4kwh instead of 30.

Indiana has not yet put it in place but it is recommended to amend to put in place following the UL9540 limits and not the IRC limits for batteries in room / house, I know I saw that proposal but can't find it now. Also, from your link. It does limit it to 20kwh per stack though.

Each battery is 5kwh. The UL listing stated support for 12 batteries stacked, so separation and being in one room should be covered I believe.

They are supported UL9540 up to 12 batteries, I'll definitely be checking first though as I'm not sure if the pytes batteries can support 12 batteries without their expander comms unit. KWH storage allowed is part of the UL9540 spec I think (and it says 60KWH) I'll be making sure the conductor...

For the indoor portion I have about 8 feet of usable space, floor to ceiling and side to side (though side to side could be stretched to 9 feet, maybe. Here's what I'm thinking for physical layout, this is about 7'9" side to side and floor to ceiling. The sol-ark's are kinda high but I'm ok...

Nice, was this inspected? I'm looking at something similar and for UL9540 may go with something like this setup. If you do plan on installing a second sol-ark how will you do AC combiners? edit: The install guide shows loading the batteries from the side, were you able to load from the front...

Ghost voltage can be handled with low impedance capable meters (LoZ mode on the klein). The wire tracer is a good call. I've heard a pencil led can be used as a resistor.

klein cl900 is what I'd do, for inrush (and use). a pre-charge resistor is a good idea too, maybe a good label maker :D

I think it's AC generated - AC consumed = excess AC excess AC - inverter battery charging = surplus AC to grid (if grid down, sol-ark will tell panels to curtail performance)