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The EOD setting starts running the inverter again at 10% higher than there threshold you set. The Cutoff setting might function the same way but I don’t know for sure. I totally agree BTW that another set of settings to be able to control the upper thresholds would be nice.

As far as I understand, the breakers for the array can be near the inverter, rather than needing to be by the array. Re: running the AC and DC wires in the same wireways, I don't know about NEC rules around that, but personally I would avoid the potential for the AC lines to induce AC...

It would be nice but I wouldn’t hold your breath on that option. They haven’t ever enabled the ability to parallel two inverters that are different models.

The video is good except the recommendation for the 6000xp is to use the CAN port for communication, so you would want to change the CAN protocol to LUX rather than the rs485. The battery type in the inverter should be left at the default of EG4.

Yeah I noticed that too. It seems based on reports from others that the newest version of the manual is correct.

I hear you. I drove 3 hours round trip to pick them up to avoid the shipping cost 🙄

I had trouble finding hardly any high wattage panels that weren’t at least a bit wider than the powerfield would accept. I don’t recall now the specific options I looked at before settling on the 370 watt NE Solar panels. Good to know the 480 watt Q cells are an option 😎

I don’t know if their wind tunnel tests included from the rear - maybe it did - but keep in mind that the buckets themselves leave only about half of the back of the panels exposed to wind pressure, so I’m sure that helps.

Yeah I love mine - great solution for my backyard array here in Arizona. Used them to mount all my 370 watt NE panels. I just put several 50 pound sand bags inside each. Even during high wind monsoon storms they haven’t budged at all. I only wish they supported panels that were a bit wider...

Here are my thoughts/opinions: Re: #1 - In my opinion, it's really all about the specs more than the brand of a panel. It's worth digging a little deeper than just the watts/volts/amperage numbers and looking at least at the thermal data - like how much the panel voltage goes down with...

Yeah that's a good thing to be sure you are aware of. For example, I have an array that has a total rated theoretical output of 5730 watts, but in full sun I pretty consistently see 4800 watts when the panels are hot in the sun - or a bit more than 5000 watts when they are colder in the winter...

I know for me, some days the Tigo information shows up, and other days (like today) I can see the panels represented but no data... not sure if that is the fault of Tigo or of EG4, but I haven't cared enough to try and do anything about it ;)

I have bought panels from A1 for local pickup in Arizona. Everything went great. I called them about rails that weren’t listed on their site and they hooked me up with them as well. 😎

Here are their officially tested brands that work. There are others as well - https://eg4electronics.com/backend/wp-content/uploads/2023/10/EG4-6000XP-Battery-Compatibility-List.pdf

Interesting it’s throwing a fault rather than just clipping…

#3 (sort of). It will switch to pure bypass mode until the load is less than the inverter capacity for a few minutes - then it will switch back to running the loads off the inverter. I have a 6000xp and it does exactly this when I turn on the dryer.

I had similar experiences with the EcoFlow Delta 2 Max. It was nice, but some features never worked correctly. I read so many other people’s reports of similar issues. It seems like their hardware is solid for the most part but they seem to struggle with the firmware side of things. I can’t tell...

The only potential issue I see with your settings is that you have the discharge cut-off and the on grid EOD thresholds set to the same value. I always set the discharge cut-off threshold to be lower by a couple percentage points.

Sounds interesting, though outside of my expertise. My question though is if this idea is feasible, why aren’t they manufacturing panels like this?

Where are you seeing a pass through limit of 9000 watts? It should be 50amps/12000 watts as far as I know…

I don’t believe the ad is accurate. I’ve seen ads like this that claim a high wattage that doesn’t ad up with the voltage and current specs. If you could get a 400 watt panel in an 11 inch square panel for $49 that would be amazing and also huge news 😎

It has been reported that Solar Assistant does NOT work with the 6000XP Ethernet dongle - only the WiFi one. SA can be connected with WiFi or Ethernet - doesn’t matter - but apparently the Ethernet dongle for the 6000XP has a network port blocked that SA requires to be able to connect to it.

The 3000 is a Voltronic inverter. The 6000xp is LuxPower Tek.

I’m pretty sure the AC charge current setting is actually referring to DC amps going to charge the batteries from the grid input - so if you want to limit it to 10 amps on the AC side you’ll need to do some math. Should be around 45 amps for that setting to limit the AC grid input for charging...

All I can tell you is that I am using the 6000xp with the EG4 LL-V2 batteries and my app does show the correct number of batteries in parallel and the correct total capacity.

The 6000XP DOES have surge on each leg - 12,000W for ≈3.5 seconds | 11,000W for ≈5 seconds which translates to half of that surge wattage for each leg.

The Tigo optimizers with the CCA and TAP do a great job of monitoring the panels - would work regardless of which solution you go with as far as the solar charge controller, etc. You can get watts, volts, and amps data for each individual panel throughout the day.

How and where are you doing your n-g bonding?

I believe so - see the working modes doc attached to this post- https://diysolarforum.com/posts/1007676/

Yeah once you have solar coming in you’ll be able to disable AC charging so it will only charge with solar and only use the grid for bypass when the batteries are low, then you’ll essentially have 100% efficiency as far as it will only pull exactly the power demanded by the loads.

It’s like waiting for Christmas 😎. Hello to a fellow Arizonan 👍🏻. It is certainly the best place in the country to do solar, eh? Couldn’t ask for more sun. I used to look forward to the winter - but solar is making me look forward to summers too 😉

Awesome 👍🏻 Yeah mine works the same way - always lets the batteries get to 1% lower than your threshold. Glad it’s working for you as well!

I realize you're in Hawaii so not much of an issue when it comes to temperature, but still, I know Hawaii has seen a few cold snaps where it has gotten down in the 50's. You don't want to fry your charge controller by being too close to the 480 volt max when the temperature drops. It only...

There's another active thread where Jared from EG4 is discussing issues with grounding the array at the 6000XP PE bus. Might want to look into this a bit further. Here's a link to his initial comment but read the subsequent discussion as well...

That's the theory, yeah ;) Theoretically with the system in Bypass your batteries could still slowly discharge through internal BMS consumption, etc. Honestly I've never had them ever lose even 1% overnight, but if for whatever reason they were to drift down to your 13% threshold, then AC...