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D71, I got me a 24Vdc 2500W AIO from VEVOR, they got me on the price.
I've also got some low cost enclosures form them, they worked just fine.
 
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D71, I'm thinking electric blue would be a good color for a 1960's golf cart, do you know what brand
paint, thinner ,hardener and clear coat would be best?, I would think a quart of base paint should
give me a few coats of paint, I could be wrong.
 
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D71, I'm thinking electric blue would be a good color for a 1960's golf cart, do you know what brand
paint, thinner ,hardener and clear coat would be best?, I would think a quart of base paint should
give me a few coats of paint, I could be wrong.
Have you got any automotive paint stores near you that sell paints to diy? An automotive single stage urethane with hardener in solid color would be best.

I would do a solid color avoid metallics and pearls …. They can be tricky to spray. Just my adice you will be doing this for first time and metallics pearls are hard to get lay down right. Electric blues often have pearls or metallics. Usually have to do what is called a drop coat with metallics where last coat is reduced air pressure and applied immediately over last wet coat.. All aspects of Application are critical gun distance speed travel too. Your stuff is small compared to a car so again you might get lucky. I doubt even with that hf gun that you will use more then a quart and suspect you will have paint left over. Most ppl use an over all primer and guide coat. If the body work is not good then all imperfections will show. Big sand scratches will show….400grit is usually recommended before paint some ppl go 600grit. A seal coat of primer is usually spray to have a solid substrate color to help with top coat paint hiding and coverage. Look for - watch autobody paint videos on youtube.

If you decide to do metallics or pearls extremely - recommend do automotive base coat - clear coat. Doing drop coat with base coat is easier vs ssu. Unless you like mottling and tiger stripes. 🤡🤣
You might get lucky but again until you get painting down would go with solids colors. You’ll be making excuses to paint stuff. Re-doing old furniture is fun. Painting kitchen cabinets and so forth.
Most automotive paints are high price now example a gallon of good PPG clear with setup is $900-$1000 …. Stupid crazy and I use to complain when it was ~$500. About double now.
Their PPG ShopLine is lot cheaper….. it was my favorite among cheaper products. If you buy from automotive paint supplier get the technical date sheets. tds will tell you how to mix and spray them. If you see some shit about 10 psi at the air cap disregard it.

Tractor paint enamels with hardener work too. Again stick to solid colors.
Colors are limited. Try find paints that have “ technical data sheets “ they tell you how to mix it with dry times such. If you buy paint from autobody supplier ask them for tds.
 
Crazy high cost of paints this might be option but again it is single stage with pearls-metallics.
This is a nice color. 🤣
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With SSU there is no fixing it for runs, bugs, and such - much harder to spray then bc/cc - base coat clear coat. A local body shop might sell you some paints highly doubt you use a quart. Or look for automotive paints body shop supply. The ppl in there might be able offer advice too. This paint at ebay has a weird mix ratio 8:1 to hardener in ebay listing is high price for no name. Their website shows correct listing for mix ratio of 4:1. I’ve ordered supplies from TCP Global years ago. Then again high price PPG upper end would be $600=$700. Lucky they have value lines significant savings but coverage is harder. Mismatch of colors too.


This is all on you don’t get mad at me. 🤡🤣 I’ve never tried their paint but most likely it is just relabeled from big brand. Paint companies do that too.


I’ve sprayed Kirker SSU in silver and it did well. I know how to paint had good setup top guns. But to me it did well. Again metallics pearls are pita.
You can get 3/4 gallon of this blue…and quart of hardener. For your body and fender probably won’t even use near a quart. Better to have to much then not enough.

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Direct from seller

Need 1 qt hardener activator.

The price is cheaper on ebay.

The kirker Epoxy primer is as good as anything from other makers. It mixes 1:1. Sticky if try to sand it until past recoat window. Can’t buy it in quarts.

Recommend you take it to ace hardware ask them to shake it. …or stir it really well. Metallics pearls settle to bottom.

I always enjoyed painting. The body work dust is another story. 🤡🤣

This is stuff they don’t tell ppl Clausen ALL IN ONE primer is super secret getting laser straight body lines…. damn shit is expensive now …use to be about $80 a gallon. The surface would dry and when sanded even did like a guide coat best primer ever used. It is like sprayable body filler.
About $250 a gallon plus need activator. Prices have gone crazy. Sand paper and good 3m green painters tape is outrageous. Never use house paint - tape with auto paints. Only automotive grade tape or the shit will mess up paint. I loved to paint. It was a hobby.

Some ppl like painting some ppl hate it little talent - whole lot of patience….. learning curves



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Cut and buffed powder coat. The finish it tough as the steel. 🤣 That golf cart frame would been $150-$200 to powder coat. Best way to coat it. Painting tube frame is pita….worse than painting old bed metal - frames - rails. it can be done too.

I had case of ocd and it suited painting. 🤣 shhh defects can be used...... with paint you finally hit a good enough is good enough state.

The water testing with your paint gun as suggested is how automated paint robots are setup and tested vs real paint. Use water until get it figured out.

Btw when you set up those golf cart disc brakes make sure you shim them correctly.
 
D71, with the kit below it states no thinner is needed, but can be sold separately, do you think
I sold get some just in case?

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also, do you see any benefit to getting the stuff below? do you think it would need thinner?

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most time for my DIY projects I use plastic hard cases, but because I liked the
way the battery packs turned out I opted to make the control enclosure out
the 2mm plastic the same size as the battery packs.

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That single stage for the blue means it already has a clear and needs hardener for it. They probably added thinner - thinner is cheaper then paint give it more volume.
Single Stage is a mix of clear and like base coat all in one. You get a micro thin layer of clear over top-as it settles and dries. I use to take a ssu red or black or solid color and add more clear to it for last coat or 2. Give it a deeper gloss. Black looks like mirror. I used clear from same brand.

The problem is you are messing with paint chemical and using different paint brands - Mixing is not recommended in wet application. Different brands can cause problems. Might not get proper chemical cross link = right. I always used same brand of top coat paint together with single stage urethanes. I have mix matched bc and clear coats.
Have used different primers but they were sanded and cured out. Mechanical adhesion.
Paint either sticks with chemical bond or with mechanical bond ie sanded scratched surface.

Besides the clear you are showing is not any good without reducer and hardener…price goes way up. That quart jumps to $144.97.
Now we see why body shops charge so much.
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Cheaper direct and Eastwood has a 10% off. I often look at Amazon - Ebay and go direct instead vs price. Keep amazon from getting any richer and sometimes saves money.

I would pump the brakes and check with local paint shop and go with base coat - clear coat from them. Wear good mask good nitrile gloves.
Going local Supports local business and can get Tech Data Sheets. If you need something can go grab it.

The way some of these ppl sell the paints cheaper they have already cut it with thinners. Why they say not needed…. For thinner but always good idea to have some medium grade reducer is common one to have on hand. Use it for clean up too.

Warning:
SSU in that electric blue color you want is going to try tiger stripe or mottle especially with that gun. Base coat will also try tiger stripe but you are not worrying with trying make it not stripe and be glossy at same time too. With base coat clear coat ,…you can repair clear by razor blade trick cut or sand out the bugs …… with SSU you will be making ugly spot uglier with the cut and scratch repair methods when break through micro thin clear - will show damaged flakes or pearls. …. Never buff out right.

Solid color SSU can be repaired. No damaged flakes or pearls. Base coats when repaired can have blend done….then clear. With base coat you have to wait until it flashes off - goes dull looking…. After spraying. I’ve used razor blades and tweezers to remove bugs from paints while wet. Those bug death wiggles are harder to fix. 🤣 lil batttttards.

I am not sure where you live at in WI but they do have paint jobber - body shop suppliers there. They are absolute best to buy from. This place carries PPG and they have 2 value lines that offer base coat clear coat options one is called ShopLine other is called Omni. I like both of them. These paint jobber - autobody supply shops can give you everything including tech data sheets.
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Sometimes they have paint pour - mix that was not exactly right can be bought at huge discounts…too. Some of the shops are hobby diy friendly. Some ppl in them are assholes. I was regular at a couple paint stores going through mis-pours. I liked air brushing which base coats work well too. A good local paint supplier is good thing to have for painting. I can tell you like that electric blue color but strongly advise doing base coat clear coat. They can mix and whip it up in matter of minutes.
Again You can repair the base coat if something happens and respray easier before clearing. Pearl metallic Single stage it is what it is unless use a solid color.

Painting small stuff makes it much easier. But experience helps. I strongly recommend going bc-cc from local supplier. It gives you room to fix a mistake. Above picture also shows why I hate spray cans. 🤡🤣😳 look for a PPG dealer near you because I like the PPG value automotive paints the best for budget.

Look for local paint supplier. Some O’Reilly auto parts sell ppg call and ask in your area. Regular paint jobber would be best and bc-cc best for your colors.
 
I strongly recommend going bc-cc from local supplier. It gives you room to fix a mistake.
D71, looking now, google says advanced auto has auto paints but the one I stopped at only
had rattle cans, told me there is a advanced auto in rockford (60miles) that does have paints
for pneumatic spray.
 
Shame not any place closer. Call local autobody shop and ask where their paint supplier is located. They-local paint shop might sell you the paints.

This is recommended by tech data sheets. It helps with hiding - coverage to have 1 solid color.
Again seal coat like epoxy primer is normally used to offer best cover results …. Especially over fillers as they need primer or soak up paint and will map. Fillers can screw the finish….they have talc in them.
Epoxy tech sheets:

Gray sealer under blue is best sealer for it.

This is what top coat Tech Data Sheets explain:

Product.. because of the bs wording on Ebay would buy direct from TCP Global and that paint on ebay is enamel not urethane - free shipping if can’t get bc - cc….local.

This xr70 Reducer is high priced as hell now. More for ~70-85 degrees. You can use this reducer in both top coat and epoxy to thin it to use as sealer.


There was time when this would been $75-$100 …. PPG Omni mp170 epoxy is about twice the cost ~$80+ as the primer mentioned from tcp global but use to buy whole gallon setup mp170 and catalyst for-that price. 😡👀😳
That stuff is way up.
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This blue is urethane that other one on ebay is enamel with hardener. …. I initially missed that but it explains the messed up mix ratios.
 
when I installed the forward/reverse switch I got it wrong, lucky for me the person
that wrote the software seen me coming :)

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