From office UPS to whole house... my journey

[KevinC_63559]

Ah, a few other tidbits I'm finding:

/opt/victronenergy/swupdate-scripts contain a number of useful shells. "resize2fs" for instance will expand the root filesystem to use more space on the Micro-SD card. I ran it and root when from 91% full to 22%.

Also, the system has "vi" as an editor, which is convenient. "vi" is pretty consistent across virtually every flavor of Unix/Linux - highly recommended to learn. (Some systems even have "vi-learn" installed - learn it once, and you have an editor for life.)

Found a number of hints here.

Oh, I should point out doing any of this wrong and your might screw up your Pi image. Of course, you can always reburn it and start over (I know I have a number of times).

 

[KevinC_63559]

OK - will use this post to keep track of modification I'm making - all of which will need to be repeated after an OS update should one ever be done:

<from a newly burnt microsd>

Connect keyboard and display to Pi, boot it.

cd /opt/vi*/sw*/
./resize2fs.sh
passwd
cd /etc/ssh
vi sshd_config <modify port and disable empty passwords>
cd /etc/venus
rm headless
cd /opt/vi*/gui
vi start-gui.sh
Find the line " size=$(fbset -fb /dev/fb0 | awk '/geometry/ { print $2 "x" $3 }')" and comment it out. Add the line:
size=1024x600
shutdown -r now

SSH is working as expected, as is the system password of course, and root is at a healthy 22% instead of the default 91% full.

GUI is NOT working as hoped. Still displaying at 600x480 *hmmm*

 

[KevinC_63559]

A bit of progress, kind of. Resolution is apparently being set at boot time:

cat /proc/cmdline
... bcm2708_fb.fbwidth=640 bcm2708_fb.fbheight=480 ...

Now just need to figure out how to change that. /boot/cmdline.txt doesn't do it.

ok - it can be set by adding:

framebuffer_width=1024
framebuffer_height=600

to the bottom of /u-boot/config.txt

fbset, which the gui start script uses, now reports a geometry of 1024 x 600, but this display is still saying 640x480... *grrrr*

ps. The display is warm to the touch. Not hot, just surprisingly warm. Can't power it off the Pi if the Pi itself is powered off a USB charger. Powers off the Pi fine if the Pi is powered by a brick power supply.
pps. If the display's Touch input is NOT plugged into the Pi, one loses all touchsceen capability, although it will power it given the Pi has enough to spare.

 

[KevinC_63559]

Hmmm. Officially stuck. Twas fun trying though.

Between the Victron Connect app on my iPhone and iPad, and the remote console allowing me to web into the Pi, I'm not really sure what the point is of having yet another interface. Starting to feel like just more cables, more power supplies, etc. Still, will see if the Victron Pi community have any suggestions.

Update: made a bit of progress via adding more to /u-boot/config, per the post up two from here.

Bottom line: I don't suggest this $37 model, however many are reporting success with slightly more expensive (~$70) models on their Cerbos. Suppose this one would do for "monitor only" duty.

 

[KevinC_63559]

LOL - screen vendor wrote back. I guess this is typical of their "12 months of technical support" advertised. Their response: "You need to adjust the Raspberry Pi configuration". *sigh*

 

[Brucey]

Found a video guy was using a fire TV stick to control his rpi/VRM on his big screen TV

 

[KevinC_63559]

Well, my Federal tax refund has arrived, now just waiting for my state and an amended 2022 Federal refund. Time to review what is needed for Phase 2:

(Snitching from my spreadsheet, please forgive the cut and paste)


This list was put together about 6 weeks ago, with all parts being purchased from CurrentConnected, who has a great reputation and has earned my trust during Part 1 of this project.

Amazing how much can change in 6 weeks! The SOK was the clear choice back then. Now CurrentConnected offers in 48V 100AH:

LiFePower4 UL1973 listed & UL9540A Compliant $1149 5-Year Warranty
Pytes V5 UL1973 & UL9540A rated $1750 Unknown Warranty ("10 year calendar life") Up to 14 in parallel
SOK UL1973 & UL9540A certified $1565 10-year Warranty User serviceable up to 15 in parallel
EG4 LLS UL1973 listed & UL9540A Compliant $1299 10-year Warranty up to 16 in parallel

This leads to all types of questions and comments:

1) Feels like UL "listed" is better than "compliant". Presume Compliant means it hasn't actually be submitted for testing.
2) Totally unclear what UL "rated" means! "It was rated and performed poorly" would still be rated.
3a) SOK has a 5 battery rack. 15 in parallel means 3 racks. Math works!
3b) Pytes has a 4 battery rack, less overall capacity - appears to be Sol-Ark only???
3c) EG4 has a 6 battery rack (which apparently fits LiFePower4) - but with 16 max in parallel, leaves empty space in the 3rd. Awkward.
4) Planning on using this with the above listed Victron units, so it seems to be down to SOK and Pytes based on what I can see on CurrentConnected website.
5) Is the EG4 "user serviceable"? e.g. Could I replace a blown cell or BMS or would it need to be shipped back???
6) What is the relative reputations and forecasted longevity of each of the companies?

Given I planning on 5 units, the $266 price difference between SOK & EG4 adds up - $1330 difference in price.

Can anybody address some of this?

Dexter... if your reading this... please take the questions as an opportunity to tweak the info on your website.

 

[HighTechLab]

Underwriters Laboratories set the standards. The product either meets it or it does not. No matter which NRTL tests the product (i.e. ETL, SGS, etc.) it gets a pass or fail based on meeting or not meeting the standards.

SOK does not have UL9540
Pytes is paired with the Sol-Ark for UL9540.
EG4 is paired with 18kPV for UL9540.

EG4 is not user serviceable. Pytes can have a BMS replaced, SOK can have cells or BMS replaced.

EG4 is the best price, followed by SOK, followed by Pytes.

Pytes is the best for high-vibration, followed by EG4, followed by SOK.

Some features aren't consistent across all options, for example EG4-LL has a shunt-trip breaker that can save you the requirement of an external battery disconnect that some AHJ's are requiring. That could be a $600 or so savings if your locale has such requirements.

Victron does not have any UL9540 certifications - in some areas that makes zero difference...it's all about what an inspector/county wants. Sometimes they don't care, other times they can practically force you to go with a specific option based on their requirements.

There are also wallmount battery options too that are worth taking a look at.

Yes, we have many options, because they are each unique and have their specific places. There is not exactly a clear winner in every case, and you can't always decide everything based on cost-alone.

 

[KevinC_63559]

Underwriters Laboratories set the standards. The product either meets it or it does not. No matter which NRTL tests the product (i.e. ETL, SGS, etc.) it gets a pass or fail based on meeting or not meeting the standards.

SOK does not have UL9540
Pytes is paired with the Sol-Ark for UL9540.
EG4 is paired with 18kPV for UL9540.

EG4 is not user serviceable. Pytes can have a BMS replaced, SOK can have cells or BMS replaced.

EG4 is the best price, followed by SOK, followed by Pytes.

Pytes is the best for high-vibration, followed by EG4, followed by SOK.

Some features aren't consistent across all options, for example EG4-LL has a shunt-trip breaker that can save you the requirement of an external battery disconnect that some AHJ's are requiring. That could be a $600 or so savings if your locale has such requirements.

Victron does not have any UL9540 certifications - in some areas that makes zero difference...it's all about what an inspector/county wants. Sometimes they don't care, other times they can practically force you to go with a specific option based on their requirements.

There are also wallmount battery options too that are worth taking a look at.

Yes, we have many options, because they are each unique and have their specific places. There is not exactly a clear winner in every case, and you can't always decide everything based on cost-alone.

Thanks. I was under the impression UL actually did testing as well as standard setting. Thanks for correcting that understanding.

I love that you have many options to meet different need profiles.

Perhaps it would help others if you incorporated most of the above into your website? e.g. Since SOK is flagged as User Serviceable, it would help define the differences if EG4 was explicitly flagged as not user serviceable. Pytes could have a "Best for vibration situations" line added - that type of thing. Having consistent language between products, or an asterisk with an explanation (in this case the UL terms "listed" vs. "rated" vs. "compliant") would bring a lot of comfort. For most of us, these are major purchases - and these days - especially with all the Chinese junk and outright advertising lies - many of us are running a bit on the paranoid side. The fact that you list these products brings a significant degree of comfort, but still...

For me, User Serviceability is huge. If something dies, being able to replace parts vs. having to ship a unit out and wait for its return makes the price premium for SOK worth it.

Now I'm more comfortable with my selection. Thanks again.

 

[KevinC_63559]

While I wait for (2) more tax refunds, I've started to tear into the wall where my critical load panel will be installed. In my case, since I'm looking to supply power to the whole office, its more like my "everything but my welder" panel <smile>.

So... what we are starting with:



This is a Square-D QO panel. The mains coming in where foamed in after installation, so it would be a real pain to move them to the new panel and just leave the majority of the circuits as is.

That, plus the ground and neutrals are bonded, without any easy way to separate them. Suppose I could add ground bars behind all the black hot wires on the bottom half, then using twist wire connectors (like that yellow one that was added to extend a neutral when a 110V dedicated socket was rewired to 220 to support my small AC unit).

So... plans are to leave the above mentioned 30amp 220V breaker for my workshop welder, add a 50amp breaker to feed to Victron units, and have PLENTY of space left to add a breaker for a future EV charger (my Cybertruck has been on order for a couple of years now... *sigh*).
I plan on placing the "critical load" breakers in a Homeline panel I salvaged from my now defunct data center. It will go to the left of the panel above:


Going to have to reroute those (3) 20amp wires, but that will be easy. Especially since their new end-point will be closer. Once they are disconnected (killing some of the power to my workshop), and some foam is removed, I'll install the Homeline panel:



It has its own 200 amp breaker which will be ignored, instead be fed from the Victrons into a 50 amp breaker. Of course, I'll need to add some grounding bars to isolate grounds and neutrals since they are bonded at the Victrons (thanks to DIYsolarforum I now know that is actually an issue...). I have verified that the neutral bars in the Homeline are not connected to the case.

One breaker question I'm not clear about. Each Victron unit is being fed 110V power, I thought I read that its perfectly fine (and in fact preferred to ensure catching both legs of the split phase power) to use a double breaker with one hot feeding each of the Victrons (and, of course, ground and neutrals). Presuming that is true, the reverse should also hold to feed the Homeline. Can I also use the pictured 220V 20amp breakers to feed (2) 20amp 110V circuits? I literally have 100 of them from my old datacenter - be nice to get some use from then instead of having to purchase individual breakers. Of course, should either leg trip, both circuits would be interrupted, but that is acceptable.

Cheers!