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How much panel watts is required to maintain 4 ea. 40ah batteries in the winter, in Seattle Washington?

nwsolar

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Happy Friday! First post and I am a solar newbie. I am building a 24volt system using 4 ea. 40 ah, Valence RT series U1-12RT batteries.
I want to know how much Solar Panel Watts are going to be required to maintain the batteries during the winter with only a 500 watt hour draw. Also looking for advice on a good all in one controller that will grow with my system to 2,000 watt hour consumption in the future. I was thinking about the Victron Smartsolar MPPT 100/30.
Is this a good fit? Also will need a 12 volt convertor and be able to charge batteries with my Honda 2000 generator if needed. I appreciate your responses and ask you to forgive me if I stated something wrong :). !
 
I admit great ignorance with Valence batteries. It's never been clear to me if they have a BMS or need to be connected to an external BMS. I believe the answer is "both" depending on model.

Regardless,

Be sure your batteries have a BMS.
Be sure you have individually charged each 12V and then all 4 in parallel before you string them into 24V
Be sure you don't charge your batteries below freezing. It will kill them. Many batteries protect themselves, some don't.

Your PV needs depend on usage AND sunshine.

Use https://pvwatts.nrel.gov/pvwatts.php to get your insolation for your exact location:


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Take the 500Wh and divide by the lowest number in the radiation column, 4.63 for me. 500Wh/4.63h = 108W

Given that you wish to expand in the future, you might want to buy the MPPT you need then now, and then pick a panel and add more as you need them, e.g.,

2000Wh/4.63h = 432W (I have great sun here in AZ, yours may be worse)

432W/28.8V = 15A charge controller.

Let's say you actually have a winter, your winter sun may be under 2 hours, say 1.7...

2000Wh/1.7h = 1176W (1200W).

1200W/28.8V = 42A, so a 40-50A MPPT would suffice.

Whatever you calculate, you may want to oversize a bit to compensate for poor solar conditions.
 
Look in my signature for “same system different areas—huge difference.” That has a case study about Seattle compared to Tucson and the different size system for the same power requirement.

Seattle was multiple times bigger.
 
Sadly, as a native, solar really isn't a viable option in our neck of the woods unless you're in Sequim or south of Centralia. As an example, I have driveway lights in Monroe that use 120wh of power on a winter day. That system has 300w of panel and I have to pack the Jackery down every couple weeks to recharge the battery.

I can't generate 120wh with 300w of panels. :cry:
 
Sadly, as a native, solar really isn't a viable option in our neck of the woods unless you're in Sequim or south of Centralia. As an example, I have driveway lights in Monroe that use 120wh of power on a winter day. That system has 300w of panel and I have to pack the Jackery down every couple weeks to recharge the battery.

I can't generate 120wh with 300w of panels. :cry:

Glad you showed up. Now I remember your sunless sky... :(
 
Thank you for your responses. Unfortunately I'm afraid I don't understand the math...yet. But I do understand Rednecktek's example. I probably need to triple the input wattage if I want any power in the winter..and buy a back up generator.
 
At least triple. The other issue you run into is that to get enough sun between Oct and March you have to massively overbuild your system, which means come July it's WWWAAYYY overkill for your needs.

Building a system for wintrr gets real expensive real fast too as you start buying more controllers and panels and figuring out where to stick it all where you can get good sun. Those pesky trees of ours really throw a lot of shade into the mix too.

Can someone throw the link up to the JRC global site please, my phone doesn't play well.

On that site you can plug in not only location but battery capacity and panel size and angle and such and it'll show you what your battery status will be every month. If you search for "challenge" posted by me you should find my Humor thread that has the site and some examples of what you'll see. It's very informative and you can play around with the panel sizes and loads to figure out when you have enough system to not have dead batteries.
 
Look in my signature for “same system different areas—huge difference.” That has a case study about Seattle compared to Tucson and the different size system for the same power requirement.

Seattle was multiple times bigger.
Thanks for the information! I have a considerably different application for my system. Would you be willing to advise me if I shared with you my intentions?
I want to run a single phase to three phase convertor.(variable frequency), for 1 hour every 7-10 days. I run this convertor (well pump) on line voltage and want a back up system when I loose grid power. I can pump 25 gallons per minute into a 1500 gallon storage container then gravity the water to my home. The convertor draws 23a (4200 watts) max and idles at 5watts.

Can I design a system for this using my existing LifePo batteries (currently have 120 amps @ 24 volts, ) by adding more batteries and using two inverters of 1500 watts (I don't need to run the pump with full power since it will flow 35 gallons a minute with full load).
Then I was going to install 2300 watts of solar to keep the batts charged. Any hope for this working?
 
Thanks for the information! I have a considerably different application for my system. Would you be willing to advise me if I shared with you my intentions?
I want to run a single phase to three phase convertor.(variable frequency), for 1 hour every 7-10 days. I run this convertor (well pump) on line voltage and want a back up system when I loose grid power. I can pump 25 gallons per minute into a 1500 gallon storage container then gravity the water to my home. The convertor draws 23a (4200 watts) max and idles at 5watts.

Can I design a system for this using my existing LifePo batteries (currently have 120 amps @ 24 volts, ) by adding more batteries and using two inverters of 1500 watts (I don't need to run the pump with full power since it will flow 35 gallons a minute with full load).
Then I was going to install 2300 watts of solar to keep the batts charged. Any hope for this working?
You have a few things working against you at the moment. First your 24V, 4 x 40Ah cells must mean that you are connecting these together in a 2P2S configuration (two sets of two cells in parallel then those two sets in series) Is that correct? That would make a 24V battery with 80Ah. Using the formula for power (watts), power(W) = volts(V) * amps(A), Wh = 24V x 80Ah = 1920Wh. That means you only have 1920 watt-hours of power in your battery to do anything. That would require that you drain your battery 100% everyday. As described, you need 4200 watts to run you well pump for one hour a day, so that is 4200 watt-hours. So the first problem is that you can't store enough power in your small battery to do the work you have described.

Second, your more detailed description says that you have 120 amps @ 24V. Where did this come from? Is this a different battery or the same battery you described at the beginning? 4 x 40Ah doesn't make a 24V battery with 120Ah. It either makes a 48V battery with 40Ah, or a 24V battery with 80Ah, or a 12V battery with 160Ah. I assume we are still talking about the Valence RT series U1-12RT batteries you described in your first sentence, and those are 40Ah 12.8V batteries.

Third, your Valence RT series U1-12RT batteries have a continuous output current of only 30A, meaning that you can only use 30A continuously. Given that I am assuming you are using them in a 2P2S configuration described above, the maximum continuous output from your battery would be 60A. Using the power equation again, P = VA, power in watts = 24 volts times 60A =1440 watts continuous. Since they are 40Ah batteries (80Ah in parallel), and you can only drain them each at 30A continuous (60A in parallel), you would have up to 80 minutes of runtime at their maximum output. So you can only pull 1440 watts maximum from those batteries in a 24 volt configuration, and you can only do it for 1 hour and 20 minutes. As you described above, your well pump needs 4200 watts of power to run, and as a well pump it will have a large surge load at start up. Pump surges are typically calculated as 3 times their running power. So in this case 3 x 4200 watts = 12600 watts. Since your cells have a maximum surge load of 80A each, your battery will only have the ability to surge with 2 x 80A = 160A for 30 seconds (according to their specification). That means again power in watts = 24 volts times 160A = 3840 watts. So we now know that your battery is too small to do the job you want them to do. You need 4200 watts of continuous power for at least one hour. You have only 1440 watts of continuous power. You need 13200 watts of surge power, and you only have 3840 watts of surge power. So the batteries don't even have enough surge power to meet your continuous power needs to run the well pump.

Fourth, two 1500 watt inverters are insufficient to run a 4200 watt well pump. First they don't have enough power to start the well pump, second they can't provide 4200 watts of continuous power to run the well pump continuously. You need an inverter with at least 4200 watts of output power to run a 4200 watt well pump, and it needs to be able to surge to 12600 watts for at least 5 seconds to start it. Even if you aren't running it full load, you will be at 72% load pumping 25 gallons per hour with a maximum capacity of 35 gallons per hour. That is still over 3000 watts and two 1500 watt inverters won't cut it. You are rounding down and the inverter manufacturer is rounding up. It needs to go the other way. You need inverters with more power than you plan to use, especially with reactive loads. You must take into account your losses with the 3 phase converter and power factor of the pump.

Fifth you are doing this in Seattle in the winter.

Now if you get a 6500 watt inverter with 100% surge capability for 5 seconds, or a 9000 watt inverter with at least a 50% surge capability for 5 seconds, and then get 16 x 100Ah cells and put them in a 48 volt configuration, and then add 5000 watts of solar panels and can get 1 hour of full sunlight a day in the winter, then you have a chance. At least until your batteries start to wear out. This is all borderline too. You need more of everything (at a minimum battery and solar panels) to ensure you can cover days you don't get enough sunshine.

I think your most cost effective solution is to buy a 13kW dual-fuel or tri-fuel generator. You can buy one of these for $1500-$3500. You could either fuel it with gasoline, propane, or natural gas. If you go the natural gas route you wouldn't have to worry about filling it up all the time. But since it would only run one hour a day, that might not be a big deal. You need to calculate the cost of using natural gas again the cost of gasoline or propane. Running generators on natural gas is more expensive than most people think, but again in your case you would only be doing it one hour a day.
 
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Sixth: You're trying to do this in Seattle.

Way not enough battery to make that well pump run. Start with the load you want to power, the well pump and anything else, and work backwards from there.

Load needs ??? Inverter which needs ??? battery capacity at ??? discharge rate, needs to be refilled with ??? hours of sun which would need ??? gigawatts of solar panels.
 
Thank you Redneck!
I have a update and a few more questions. Since our last discussion, I built a 12 volt system using a MPP Solar 12volt Controller, the four 40 amp 12volt LiPo4 batteries in Parallel and 690 watts of PV. All the parts where sourced as used equipment. This has allowed me to understand the processes a little better. I use it in my office to provide backup lights and computer power.

Now I am moving forward with my water well power back up system. I purchased a Pow-Sunsmart 48volt,10K split phase Hybrid controller from a Amazon return seller. I took a chance and paid $450.00 for the controller without instructions or accessories. The mounting flange shows wear marks, so it has been hung before. The wire connectors show no signs of being used. I suspect it was used as a display panel.

This will be the basis of my system to build a 200kw battery generator. I will charge from line voltage and have decided to pass, on the PV array for now. I am looking at two battery options. Both are from PowMr, one has 48 volts and the other 51.2 volts. I assume I have to change some of the specifications on the controller to use the 51.2 version? And is this desirable? Both batteries are currently the same price $2,269.00 which seems good for 200 amps. What is your guys opinion on this set up?

By the way, my solar gain today, as of this writing on my 690 watt panels is about 68 watts. Yesterday I saw the sun and got 180 watts. We indeed get our power from the rain, not the sun in the Northwest. LOL
 
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