I'm in the planning stages of adding an LFP battery bank to my Bus RV, mostly for fun and learning opportunity. I already have Magnum inverter MS-2812 and PT100 (MPPT) charge controller (Magnum BMK / shunt), 3 x 300W panels and 660Ah of Lifeline 12V batteries. Plus starting (2) AGMs and Generator start AGM.
I'm now assembling parts for a 12V / 280Ah LFP battery with this BMS to add capacity to the house bank, wired in parallel to the AGMs. The BMS will control a Gigavac GV200 relay for high current. I plan to use the mixed chemistries where the LFP bank does the heavy lifting, and increases charge efficiencies where the AGM will spend 99% of its time float in the background.
Eventually, I may have a pure LFP house bank, but these Lifelines have plenty of life left and I hate to sell for a tiny fraction of new price ... I've researched the pros and cons and am comfortable, (I actually like the AGMs in the system as they'll ensure alternator and SCC always sees a battery in the event of LFP failure). I will install a Blue Sea bank selector switch so I can select either bank or both. Mostly I boondock (no shore power) in California beach campgrounds, so freezing nor high temps is an issue. If either is an issue, I plan to just switch to AGM only, OR also if I had a long term hookup.
I use the RV maybe 30 to 40 days / year. So at times it sits for 60 days with the systems totally shut down and the RV parked in a barn w/o shore power and all batteries and systems disabled.
Sorry if I'm long-winded, but wanted to share the context. Here are my questions:
1. How much does the BMS (or similar) draw without any other loads on the batteries?
2. Does it draw enough that it could kill the LFP batteries? Or do these shut themselves down prior? I assume there must be logic in the BMS to avoid killing a dormant pack?
3. If they can kill the batteries:
3a. would I unplug the BMS when I store? Or just put single pole switch inline with the ground to the BMS? I think I read somewhere here BMS's weren't intended to be disconnected.
3b. is there a better BMS that my draw less current when my system is dormant? I looked at the Chargery. I decided on what I bought due to price and that I could manage from my phone via bluetooth (and Will's endorsement). These batts will be stored in a bay, so the remote Chargery screen won't be handy inside.
I don't have a schematic software to show my system diagram. Sorry. Hope what I've described makes sense.
Thank you in advance,
Doug
I'm now assembling parts for a 12V / 280Ah LFP battery with this BMS to add capacity to the house bank, wired in parallel to the AGMs. The BMS will control a Gigavac GV200 relay for high current. I plan to use the mixed chemistries where the LFP bank does the heavy lifting, and increases charge efficiencies where the AGM will spend 99% of its time float in the background.
Eventually, I may have a pure LFP house bank, but these Lifelines have plenty of life left and I hate to sell for a tiny fraction of new price ... I've researched the pros and cons and am comfortable, (I actually like the AGMs in the system as they'll ensure alternator and SCC always sees a battery in the event of LFP failure). I will install a Blue Sea bank selector switch so I can select either bank or both. Mostly I boondock (no shore power) in California beach campgrounds, so freezing nor high temps is an issue. If either is an issue, I plan to just switch to AGM only, OR also if I had a long term hookup.
I use the RV maybe 30 to 40 days / year. So at times it sits for 60 days with the systems totally shut down and the RV parked in a barn w/o shore power and all batteries and systems disabled.
Sorry if I'm long-winded, but wanted to share the context. Here are my questions:
1. How much does the BMS (or similar) draw without any other loads on the batteries?
2. Does it draw enough that it could kill the LFP batteries? Or do these shut themselves down prior? I assume there must be logic in the BMS to avoid killing a dormant pack?
3. If they can kill the batteries:
3a. would I unplug the BMS when I store? Or just put single pole switch inline with the ground to the BMS? I think I read somewhere here BMS's weren't intended to be disconnected.
3b. is there a better BMS that my draw less current when my system is dormant? I looked at the Chargery. I decided on what I bought due to price and that I could manage from my phone via bluetooth (and Will's endorsement). These batts will be stored in a bay, so the remote Chargery screen won't be handy inside.
I don't have a schematic software to show my system diagram. Sorry. Hope what I've described makes sense.
Thank you in advance,
Doug