diy solar

diy solar

No magic smoke, but no $ savings because I played with AC charging.

1 full cycle is when you discharge the capacity of the battery and it can be in any combination of charge discharge cycles ie 100-0 x1, or 100-50 x2, 100-75 4x
 
1 full cycle is when you discharge the capacity of the battery and it can be in any combination of charge discharge cycles ie 100-0 x1, or 100-50 x2, 100-75 4x
That is incorrect. By DEFINITION 1 FULL cycle is when you discharge from 100 to 0 and back to 100. 100 to 50 to 100 to 50 to 100 is two HALF cycles. You can not make the assumption that the "wear and tear" on the overall component / chemistry is the same no matter how you treat it. This would be true of any storage medium.

For example if you ran a liquid fuel tank dry every time before you re-filled it, you could put additional stress on an in-tank pump that might die sooner. If you always kept it full you would create additional weight that might factor in on seals at the bottom of the tank, or create strange hydraulic pressure scenarios on other plumbing items.

You just don't know until you have actual real world test data over the expected lifetime of the product. We are actually just starting to get some useful data on this front, it will be interesting. Early data from tesla seems to indicate people who slow charge at home and keep it generally topped off won't lose very much range/capacity over a 10 year period, but we don't have good aggregation of intermediate charge-discharge cycles. From the LifePO front the chemistry is still fairly new.
 
One of my problems with "% charging" is if you are not supposed to go below 20%, then you mis-calibrated. Whatever was 20 needs to be zero (0). My amplifier goes all the way to 11. Yours only goes to 10. Meh. I'm not in "Spinal Tap" I don't need to go to 11 ;). The battery 0-100% should be calculated to optimize total energy thruput on the device. I would like to see a rating as above: 0-100 @ 6000 full cycles. This should be whatever the point is that maximized total energy in/out.

For example if you ran a liquid fuel tank dry every time before you re-filled it, you could put additional stress on an in-tank pump that might die sooner. If you always kept it full you would create additional weight that might factor in on seals at the bottom of the tank, or create strange hydraulic pressure scenarios on other plumbing items.

If my motorcycle sputters to a stop because I ran out of gas, I just reach down and flip the valve over to "Reserve."

The full capacity of ESS or EV is how car you can go until the lights go out or you roll to a stop.
You might choose to stop with 10% ~ 20% remaining then recharge because you get more cycle life and value, but you've got that reserve in case you need it.
 
If my motorcycle sputters to a stop because I ran out of gas, I just reach down and flip the valve over to "Reserve."
Oops, already did that 20 min ago, no gas station in site! To my point, gravity feed on a bike changes the paradigm. Pushed that B about 3 miles.
The full capacity of ESS or EV is how car you can go until the lights go out or you roll to a stop.
You might choose to stop with 10% ~ 20% remaining then recharge because you get more cycle life and value, but you've got that reserve in case you need it.
Agree. None the less, testing/ratings should be based on 100-0-100, whatever those numbers might actually indicate on the battery in question is another question altogether. The percentages and ratings are actually derived thru experimentation/optimization, that are decidedly not real world conditions.
 
If my motorcycle sputters to a stop because I ran out of gas, I just reach down and flip the valve over to "Reserve."

The full capacity of ESS or EV is how car you can go until the lights go out or you roll to a stop.
You might choose to stop with 10% ~ 20% remaining then recharge because you get more cycle life and value, but you've got that reserve in case you need it.


And if you forget to flip the switch back when you fill it up then sputter again you feel like an idiot and have to hitchhike or call someone to bring you gas.

Don't ask me how I know this.

I generally only use the top 25% of my battery and top it up everyday. According to the paperwork that came with it that should get me 15 years with only a 10% loss. Deeper discharge means more loss. Higher C rate charge or discharge means lower life.

At least all the paperwork says it... but who has a 15 year old LiFePO4 battery laying around and knows it wasn't abused to check this? Raise your hand high so I can see it over the monitor.
 
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