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Seplos Mason 280 Isolator / Fuse Question

Rickster1978

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Joined
Nov 5, 2023
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Hereford
Hi

Just a quick question on fuse / isolator requirements for my Seplos setup. Below is a basic line drawing of what I’m planning to set up.

01F7265D-8639-404B-B3CD-4CD9CA3F317E.jpeg

I’m not sure if I need anything else between the battery and the inverter. I have an isolator which sits on the live connection as per below. This was purchased with my Seplos kit.

87E982C2-4F54-4071-8033-28DEC8090490.jpeg
So my question is, do I need anything else between the battery and the inverter (Sunsynk 5.5 Hybrid inverter) or is the above ok. I wasn’t sure if it needed a separate fuse as well as the isolator.
 
I use a Blue Sea breaker. Better than a fuse for me. In the event of an overload on the inverter, you don't need to replace a fuse. Just remove the over load and reset the trip
 
Hi

Just a quick question on fuse / isolator requirements for my Seplos setup. Below is a basic line drawing of what I’m planning to set up.

View attachment 180914

I’m not sure if I need anything else between the battery and the inverter. I have an isolator which sits on the live connection as per below. This was purchased with my Seplos kit.

View attachment 180915
So my question is, do I need anything else between the battery and the inverter (Sunsynk 5.5 Hybrid inverter) or is the above ok. I wasn’t sure if it needed a separate fuse as well as the isolator.
Are you sure this cheap isolator can handle 150 A ?
I'd be looking for a much bulkier breaker, that will also protect from overvoltage
 
Hi

Just a quick question on fuse / isolator requirements for my Seplos setup. Below is a basic line drawing of what I’m planning to set up.

View attachment 180914

I’m not sure if I need anything else between the battery and the inverter. I have an isolator which sits on the live connection as per below. This was purchased with my Seplos kit.

View attachment 180915
So my question is, do I need anything else between the battery and the inverter (Sunsynk 5.5 Hybrid inverter) or is the above ok. I wasn’t sure if it needed a separate fuse as well as the isolator.
Please be aware that switch is not rated for the operating voltages of LiFePo4.
 
Please be aware that switch is not rated for the operating voltages of LiFePo4.
Are you sure? I’m just checking as it says 48v on the switch and the Seplos is also 48v isn’t it?

If it’s not right I’ll obviously go back to the company who supplied it with the Seplos mason kit.

I’m pretty sure it’s this one.

IMG_5033.jpeg
 
Are you sure? I’m just checking as it says 48v on the switch and the Seplos is also 48v isn’t it?

If it’s not right I’ll obviously go back to the company who supplied it with the Seplos mason kit.

I’m pretty sure it’s this one.

View attachment 180999
It's rated for 48VDC max. A 48V lifepo4 is pretty much dead at 48V.
There are a few threads about these switches, that's how I learned about it.

I started one a while back.
 
Last edited:
Ok, so I purchased the Mason kit, inverter and the AC / DC isolators from a company based in the UK. I’m wondering if I need to go back to them and suggest that the DC isolator isn’t the correct one.

I thought I had got my head around the DIY install quite well but I’m not so sure now :(
 
Ok, so I purchased the Mason kit, inverter and the AC / DC isolators from a company based in the UK. I’m wondering if I need to go back to them and suggest that the DC isolator isn’t the correct one.

I thought I had got my head around the DIY install quite well but I’m not so sure now :(
would this be suitable?


 
No idea :( I’m completely confused now so not sure what I need. I’ve got the sparky coming over later in the week so it may be a case of speaking to him about it.
 
Ok, so I purchased the Mason kit, inverter and the AC / DC isolators from a company based in the UK. I’m wondering if I need to go back to them and suggest that the DC isolator isn’t the correct one.

I thought I had got my head around the DIY install quite well but I’m not so sure now :(
Sorry to add confusion.
Ask to see, or pull up, a spec sheet for the switch.
I ran them for ~ 1 year before I upgraded.
They would probably be fine but might not.
 
Sorry to add confusion.
Ask to see, or pull up, a spec sheet for the switch.
I ran them for ~ 1 year before I upgraded.
They would probably be fine but might not.
I appreciate the input. Now is a good time for me to get it right as nothing is currently installed.
 
Iirc, the Seplos mason diy kits include an internal fuse for circuit protection. I think it might be a 400A t class; check your kit.

As for switch/isolator, yours appears to be BlueSea. Marinco/BEP makes a similar one. I vaguely recall someone here posting an email from one of those suppliers stating that the switch was good for 48v nominal systems, up to 60v. But since then I’ve seen a disclaimer on that. Not sure why they don’t clarify that precisely in their product literature.
 
This switch looks very similar to BlueSea Systems m6006. If that’s the case, this switch is good for your system. I have been using it as DC isolator for my system for a while now and haven’t noticed any voltage drop/ heating at 175amp constant current for sustained period.
I have noticed that BlueSea, amongst other manufacturers use nominal voltage values for batteries (12v/24v/48v etc).

Of course, this is assuming you don’t disconnect batteries under load ?
 
This switch looks very similar to BlueSea Systems m6006. If that’s the case, this switch is good for your system. I have been using it as DC isolator for my system for a while now and haven’t noticed any voltage drop/ heating at 175amp constant current for sustained period.
I have noticed that BlueSea, amongst other manufacturers use nominal voltage values for batteries (12v/24v/48v etc)
If that's the switch BlueSea should update there specs... https://www.bluesea.com/products/6006/m-Series_Mini_On-Off_Battery_Switch_with__Knob_-_Red
Like I said before, I'm sure it would work just fine but going by the specs it isn't rated for the working voltage of Lifepo4.
 
This switch looks very similar to BlueSea Systems m6006. If that’s the case, this switch is good for your system. I have been using it as DC isolator for my system for a while now and haven’t noticed any voltage drop/ heating at 175amp constant current for sustained period.
I have noticed that BlueSea, amongst other manufacturers use nominal voltage values for batteries (12v/24v/48v etc).

Of course, this is assuming you don’t disconnect batteries under load ?
It is indeed the Blue Sea systems m6006 switch. There’s also an internal fuse on the Seplos Mason as well.
 
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