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My battery. EVE 280LFK series. -I am compressing with 2 plastic cutting boards and 6 rods. I have used some old wire sheath to insulate the rods from the cells. -I just bought some copper bar and cut/drilled/bent as necessary. So it comes off the terminal at a 90 and bolts directly to the BMS...

I think you need to upgrade the app itself to latest version. Did you click the QR code in the manual or how did you find it? Threads are good on the BMS. I bolted a copper bus bar to mine to hang the unit off the side of the battery. I also have the shunt bolted to the other side. Works great

Just read this linked article on Reddit. Seems like an interesting discovery. Basically it says that putting a high discharge for a short time on a full battery can extend the life of it up to 30%. The "islands" of lithium that form after years of cycling, partially responsible for the loss of...

I think it's 2A not 3A. Nonetheless it's a great BMS. I am also surprised dude got attacked out of the gate as I would also want to *try* this BMS if I was in his shoes. (I watched the same YouTube) Mine is hooked up to my in-service 8s bank so I can't experiment with 4s but would like to know...

I am just following this up to say that the new epever Bluetooth mini adapters do in fact work with the old Tracer-A series charge controllers and epever Solar Guardian app. (Configure the app as "Tracer-AN (10A-40A)" ) Not officially supported on the app description, but I can confirm it works!

Awesome thank you. Voltage between inv switch + and - is the battery voltage, ie 26v

Unfortunately I fell for it at the time. :( I am SOOO glad my lead acid days are over! But ya this article reminded me of equalization too, but opposite direction and current instead of voltage. I am going to email the authors with some questions... Maybe they'll respond

They are just leads that come from the BMS. You can put them wherever you want to take the temp from. I just stuck them in the middle of the pack free hanging. Others stick them to the pack with tape.

It does not appear that that matters. In the battery parameter settings of the SCC I had already specifically put it as 24v from the drop down. So it is "hard coded" in that sense. There was no autosense option in the drop down.

Just following up for anyone interested. I used another meter and it lined up with the AiLi and the BMS. So taking that as accurate I found a way online to calibrate the original volt meter itself by adjusting a potentiometer inside the unit. Everything (except the SCC which I am accounting for...

Does anyone know if the 4210A and 4210AN series have the same firmware? I have the "A" version and only difference I can find is pos ground vs neg ground. Are the firmwares the same and can I flash the the new AN version on mine?

If the discharge is enabled, no manual intervention needed. ie if I disable and re-enable discharge it comes back on. In the absence of discharge being enabled (like under LVD), the SCC stays on as long as there is PV power. If there isn't it shuts off. I can jump it to start with a 24v source...

@GXMnow in post #109 and subsequently you mentioned that your JK BMS still kept your SCC alive during a LVD so that it could still charge your bank. Are you certain? Which BMS? I think that might have been momentary/situational. The reason I ask is because I have a JK (the 8s200a) and I ran...

Hey there! Sorry for not updating. Yes... And no. I ended up just adding a 24v automotive relay instead of the solid state one and was able to turn the inverter on and off with the Victron. I was packing up my house to leave for the rainy season and come back to Canada. Unfortunately, something...

Basically this thing by "Fotek": https://tinyurl.com/yc9fxhr6 But I bought it on the local Amazon equivalent called Lazada. Same part number SSR-40DD but the output is 5-220v not 110, otherwise it looks exactly like this. same markings etc

I use it with my Android no problem!

Thanks for your input. There is a tree that provides some shade although it's covered in vines that wrap themselves around the water tank and cause havoc. There's also some rubber trees that admittedly are much higher now than they were years ago. I'll run some tests in March (hottest time I am...

I 100% do not. My setup: Batt Neg goes to BMS. Common port (P-) of BMS goes to shunt, then to negative system bus. Batt Pos goes to System Pos bus. I don't understand why it WOULD show voltage. Wouldn't it have to at least allow a minimal current to do that? And thereby contradicting a...

They are M6. I used two rigid pieces of copper and attached B- to the negative battery terminal, bending the copper over the side of the battery to mount the BMS and then used a short piece of copper to directly attach my battery monitor shunt to P-. Makes the whole unit rock solid and manageable!

I have the wifi one so I can program it with that no problem... When I am beside it. It's just that one has fixed IPs so it's not able to be accessed remotely. I've tried and tried. No joy.

Got your message... Thanks anyway but ya I already have the WiFi one and it won't work remotely.

Thanks for asking. I live/work in Canada and need to fund this lifestyle choice so while I have at times been able to work remotely over the years the timezone difference makes it less than ideal. I also really enjoy the Canadian summer and my friends back home. My intention when I built the...

Exactly yes, confirmed. I need to prevent it from getting to the power off stage and will aim to prevent that by putting an LVD in front of the inverter. Relevant sidebar: Lithium is a new tech for the island. I am one of two people with decent Lifepo4 packs here and the other fellow (the one...

No controlling it directly didn't work for the same reason. The BP doesn't "switch" the connection/load on and off. It just reduces the voltage, so there is a still a path... My remote switch for inverter is either on or off, so if that line doesn't go completely dead, it still registers as on...

Oh I agree! I calculated the cycle life to last me 77 years for my use case - I am 47 so... Not concerned. LoL I've just seen so many people talk about maximizing their cycle life and think it's over the top sometimes so wanted to have some stats to put things into perspective.

Did anyone get this working on their LAN with a different IP or what can I do to make it accessible with the app over lan? I think the app is harcoded to the 11.11.11.x up address. I bought the new black box and it doesn't work with my tracer 4210A (not AN) series.

I wonder if the "dumb" BP works differently than the smart one. I would like to know if there's any measurable voltage on the Out when it's undervoltage. My friend here has another "dumb" BP I am going to connect to see if it's the unit that's faulty or not.

My Tracer 4210A series (not AN) doesn't work with the wifi box. So I blew money there too. FFS, you get what you pay for with epever. Like, wtf can't the old blue ebox work on lan without an 11.x IP. Simple right? Nope you need a new black wifi box... So I get that and you need to fuck around...

Can someone help me find what I am looking for? Eg. my 280ah eve cells are rated at 6000 cycles for 80% dod But what is the expected cycle life at 50%, 90%, 95%, 100% dod? I am having trouble finding the right graphs or charts or tables. My googling game must be off as I think this should be...

Hey RayW! I am also in Thailand, down south near Ranong. I just built my 8s 280ah pack yesterday also with the same JK you have. I really like it. As I was reading through the thread I was going to send you the manual and tell you to fuse both the 9th and 10th leads to cell 8+ but it looks like...