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Thanks for the info. What do you mean by "can you slot the busses"? If I arrange the cells like in the second pic I posted (post #5) all the busbars would be the same length, so I take it that means the resistance would be the same as well.

The tape is temporary. Part of the reason for wanting to use the hard plastic case is to use some thinner 1/4 plywood for compression inside the case. I'm not quite following your bus bar arrangement. Could I do this (white arrows represent bus bars)? This would put the main negative and...

No, It's because I have no idea how to measure or read the resistance. After a few more tests it is clear the problem is the busbar between the two screw studs. If I remove that busbar and simply use one stud to combine all the lugs the issues I was seeing disappear. Full charging current...

If you can't tell I don't know all the lingo. LOL But I assumed that one threaded stud did not constitute a busbar. I have another two post busbar on the way, similar to the faulty one but hopefully better quality. Each busbar will have three total lugs on it so nothing too crazy.

Good point LOL. I mistakenly thought that unplugging the switch while "on" would turn the BMS "off" but it doesn't.

I see many very nice wiring diagrams posted on this forum, like the one below. They are clearly customized diagrams and I'm wondering where people are creating these wiring diagrams? I couldn't find the resource with a quick search.

Here's something else strange. I mentioned that I put a 50A powerpole connector on the busbar terminals, and a 30A powerpole connector that is connected directly to the battery. I have a 20A charger. When I put the charger on the 30A powerpole connector the BMS reads 20.2A charge rate. When...

You must have the inverter/charger. I just have the inverter, which does not have AC input for pass through.

I wasn't sure if I should use 10AWG THHN or 10/2 romex, or even if those are the same thing. Basically, I know just enough to be dangerous.

I have a multimeter so I think I can test it, but I'm not sure how to interpret the results. Both busbars measured 3 ohms(?) when set on the 200 ohm setting.

Alright, thanks for the info. I wasn't even thinking about adding batteries. I figured 230AH would be enough. I built this 4S battery with EVE 230A cells. Let's say I get 4 more 230A cells and make a 24v battery. How does that then feed the 12v inverter?

Hm, didn't even notice that. I just saw 4-8awg 60A fuse. Something like this?

The renogy 12v 3000w inverter and the 12v 230A battery. The inverter is new and I could probably return it. The battery has a Daly 100A bms. Also an auto transfer switch. I don't have the camper yet but it it comes with a 12v/24v MPPT charge controller.

I'd like to bump this thread up again. I don't understand why it seems like most instructions and video reviews use 6AWG cables on a 200A BMS. I'm not going to be running the battery anywhere near 200A, but let's just say that I do. Since the battery (-) is connected to the BMS B-, and the...

I am building a 4S 12v 230AH LiFePO4 battery and I'm thinking about putting it in a plastic case. The cells come with metal plates to tie the cells together, but the cells need to be back to back to back to back to use those. In order to fit the cells in the case I'm considering, the cells...

I'm planning to add a whole RV inverter and could use a little help figuring parts of it out. I'm planning to use the Renogy 3000W inverter to power everything except for the A/C. I have a 230AH LiFePO4 battery. Right now, the BMS limits the discharge current to 100A. I might need to update...

The bus bars are already slotted, but I am also getting some more robust bus bars for this purpose. Interestingly, I have the BMS connected which shows the resistance on each battery lead. And even with the long jumper as in the first image I posted the resistance is basically identical across...

I have no idea what the ampacity of the bus bars are. They came with the cells and there is no indication on them. I have some 1/0 welding cable that should be good up to 200A for short distances. That's what my BMS is, and I don't think I'll ever go over 150A current.

Ok, so I think I've discovered the problem even if it doesn't exactly make sense. As noted above I have a 20A charger and I bought these terminal blocks/busbars. I discovered that if I have the red/positive terminal block in the line the charge current is only about 13A and the terminal block...

I don't need the inverter AC pass through as I already have an automatic transfer switch.

What I don't like is that the switch LED never turns off. It certainly doesn't draw much, but I don't like the idea of any draw on the battery while I'm not actually using it.

Thanks. I think it will be three at most, and maybe two. And actually there might already be a bus bar in the trailer. I'll have to wait and see when I get it, but I'm trying to get parts ahead of delivery in May.

Thanks, so dual 6AWG from the BMS to the battery, and 2/0 from the battery to the shunt to the inverter?

I am buying a new travel trailer that comes with a 200W solar panel and MPPT charge controller (along with the 30A 120v system and 12v system). In addition, I am planning to add a whole trailer 3000w inverter (with auto transfer switch). I don't exactly know how everything is wired in the...

I'm pretty new to DIY LiFePO4 battery builds and am looking for a little advice regarding an enclosure. I intend to 3D print a box for a 4S EVE LF230 12v battery (from Docan) with Daly BMS. The basic idea is to have a thick top and bottom frame with thinner side panels that basically just...

I just completed a battery build with EVE LF230 cells and have a question about the heat one of the components is generating. Description: EVE LF230 cells, Daly 100A BMS The cells are in series connected with the tinned copper busbars that came with the batteries I have a 60A in-line fuse from...

It's only a 4S 230AH 12v battery. My build plate is 256mm x 256mm so I should be able to fit it in. And again, I'm only printing thicker frames for the top and bottom, not a whole large box. And I will likely use a carbon fiber filament for strength. Still, point taken. I just don't really...

Right, but you can buy a BMS that can supply 200A or 250A. I believe my battery is 1C so theoretically it could supply 230A(?). I'd rather buy a BMS for $100 than another battery for $600. It's entirely possible I'm not thinking about this correctly. I was planning to use 4AWG silicone...

I'm adding a JK BD2A8S20P BMS (200A) to a 230AH 4S LiFePO4 battery and want to make sure that I'm using the appropriate size wire from the BMS to the battery. The load on the battery could be as high as about 160A and the load side will have a 200A breaker, but I want to plan for some overkill...

I have a travel trailer with 30A service and I'm adding a whole trailer Renogy 3000W inverter. The inverter has a dedicated AC terminal port (neutral, ground, live - neutral and ground bonded inside inverter) that will run to an auto transfer switch. My question is, what size/configuration...