Recent content by chrisski

Not sure I know what you mean . Most 12 volt panels out out 18 to 21 volts, so can hurt electronics. 12 volt panels mean more will work with a 12 volt PWM.

I don’t use the converter to charge the batteries because the 1650 watts of panel on the roof provides plenty. The LEDs and entertainment system don’t have that much of a draw. Also makes me feel when I’m plugged into shore power all that work I did on the solar installation is worth it,

I would install a 30 amp fuse with 10 AWG wire, but first look at the voltage loss for that length. Probably not. I would only isolate the system if the charging of the AC->DC converter+20 amps for the DC to DC converter exceeds the max charge rate of the battery. Usually 10% of the 20 hour...

I recommend you start a new thread on this. If you really just need two or three heads the mini-split would work. I have central air and considered replacing the central air with a four head mini-split, but have opted against it. There were three smaller areas that the central air takes care...

If you pull out 40%, how much do you know that's left? The sealed can't have a hydrometer, and voltage may not be the most reliable for determining what's left. I'm against capacity testing lead acid batteries, because their life can easily be cut by discharging too deep.

As @MiSh says, the battery charts look like this: 235*.6 I don't think you'll find an actual formula that at 700 cycles and half way through the 1400 cycle lifecycle, at 40% DOD, how many amp hours are left at that 700 th cycle. I do think that 40% loss f battery capacity is a bit unusual...

Need more data on that. How many AMp Hours do you use overnight and as compared to two years ago. Also, going once below 50% will harm them. There are plenty of charts that show how long batteries will last based off how deep they are discharged each night.

Would you consider opening it up, even if you had to physically cut it, and balancing the cells? At some point after days of dealing with something, no longer worth my time, they win. FWIW, I bought some individual 50 ah cells and case and busbars and BMS to build my own, and there was very...

Why not? This is a 600 volt rated wire. If not THHN, then what type wire? I would not want to use THHN as a connection to a #10 stud, or whatever the studs size is on a 280 ah cell, in a mobile build where the battery could be bouncing up and down such as a mobile build. If it were a thicker...

I’m assuming you are going 3p 2s because the two different panels have nearly matching voltages and amperage? Could be wired similar to this 2p3s battery, but adapted to 3p2s. I’m seeing you’d need a second combined box for OCP.

Also, my assumption this is for maintaining the batteries for cloudy days. If this Is for the initial charge, the IP22 is fine.

FWIW, my bank is about the same size, 2 x 8S 280 ah, a 560 ah 24 volt bank. I think nothing of charging and consistently it at .12 C, about 60 amps. I would charge it at .2C constantly with no worries. I consider my 37.5 am 24 volt charger a bit undersized to charge 560 ah 24 volt pack. I...

The battery I had installed for the house, 48 volts, has an internal class t installed at the factory. The battery is attached to a load center that has an additional circuit breaker for each battery bank. The moderate inverter is a 12 volt inverter, 2000 watts, that runs at 1000 watts...

I use a AIMS 120 VAC to 12 volt 75 amp charger. The Victron you mention tops out at 30 amps. Two 304 AH cells would take 9 hours with the 75 amp charger, and 20 hours with the 30 amp charger. Really depends on how quickly you want to charge. If you want a 240 VAC converter, you can get...

Any time ampacity demands it. The Installer used 2/0 from each 5 kWh battery to the inverter for a 48 volt system. Could be required for a 12 volt system with a moderate sized inverter.