Quick update, I was going to make some upgraded cables in a few days, but as I was putting stuff away, found a set of old twin wire 6awg cables. The battery side ring terminal was too big, but good enough to work.
I hooked them up and have 10.3a!!
I was hoping to get like 30% more watts but...
I found this thread after searching for the same problem. Cycling the “batt on” and “batt off” did nothing but show a message that said “Port change failed”. Disconnecting the BMS also did nothing.
After thinking I had a bad BMS for days, I started to fiddle with settings preparing to call...
Wow, I wonder why I didn’t know this…
Looks like that solves it for me. 12v it is. Only downside is I won’t be able to go smaller wires for the 24v runs, but I was going to bring 12v from the alternator to the charger sitting next to the batteries anyhow, so that would have only been a very...
I can spend a little… especially since I’ll need this in the long run. How about this:
Victron Energy Orion-Tr Smart 12/12-Volt 18 amp 220-Watt DC-DC Charger, Isolated (Bluetooth) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0851TPKV7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_5667EKRSK0NKZ0D5MSF0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It should...
Not looking for a panel, just the charge controller. I figured I could do better and cheaper than what was offered as a kit... seems many recommend just sticking with what they sell.
Makes sense. Thanks.
There's insulation between the engine and hood, the hood itself is somewhat like a double...
250W is absolutely max… will usually be half that. Same with 1700w on the stove. It’s hard not to burn anything. I’ll probably usually cook at around 1kw.
But, if I do go over, then I’ll just bring my 3rd battery.
Eventually, I’ll throw 200w in the top of the jeep, but that’ll probably be a...
I know the inputs to these fuse boxes typically go through the top and bottom posts, but I figured putting the dc to dc charger in the middle section would give me a fused input.
Am I wrong?
The intent here is to have the fridge run from the battery when the ignition is turned off and to have...
I adjusted the Orion to just 0.02v above the battery. Same results. I also tried various (above and below battery/Orion’s setting) power supply voltages, same result.
If the battery is asking for too much current, wouldn’t I be getting the same results when it’s power cycled and when the output...
Newbie myself, but whoa. You might want to give a little background because it’s hard for me to imagine someone that has to ask this question wanting to go that big as a first build.
Hell, I feel like I’m pushing myself with my 4s 304ah pack!
I haven’t purchased it yet, but my eye is in the zero breeze2. I hope to spend 60-75 nights a year in the camper, so if it lasts it’s not that expensive. They are only around 2k btu, but my sleeping area is only a poorly insulated 30ish cubic feet.
In the long term, I’m pretty sure I’m going to...
My experience as well. It was interesting to browse the store, but it was very obviously geared toward the professional welder, including the lady that laughed at me for calling it "wire" and not "cable".
I’m looking at putting some panels on the top of my pop up camper. Unfortunately, it seems I can fit 2 panels quite easily, but if they were an inch smaller in each direction, I could fit four.
So, is it possible to trim the bezels around the cells down a bit?
Has anyone ever added a small LTO battery to a LiFePO4 system specifically to handle just one very high current appliance?
I've been putting together a 24v system to handle an induction cooker, but I got to thinking that I could also just maintain a small 50-60 AH LTO battery for this need...
Over the next few months, I'll be buying this: https://www.cascadia4x4.com/collections/vehicle-specific-hood-solar-panel/products/jeep-wrangler-jl-2018-present-vss-system-80-watt-hood-solar-panel?variant=35028713111704
They have a controller for about $100, but I assume I can do better for...
This is what I would think would be a simple setup, but I can’t get it to work for some reason. Using these two components:
Battery: https://battlebornbatteries.com/product/12v-lifepo4-deep-cycle-battery/
DC to DC charger...
While building my 4s battery, I’m thinking of taking a spare buss bar and putting a 90 degree bend in it so my main positive/negative an be accessed from the long face of the battery side where my bms will be located. I’d place some rubber reinforcing so that this buss bar doesn’t add any strain...
11.78 with the power supply attached and 11.78 with the power supply not attached. I think this is the same thing you're asking, but I didn’t detach the Victron (shouldn’t make a difference if it’s not powered, right)?
I don’t think it’s the battery because if I hook up the bench power supply...
They're frequently on sale and will be paying less than their advertised price. Additionally, its a means to add solar in a manner that's a lot less attention-grabbing than a traditional panel bolted to a hood would be. For that, it's worth a premium to me.
Any helpful suggestions are appreciated.
I buy my cable from https://www.customcableusa.com (used to be geniunedealz.com).
It's not advertised as such, but they've always sent me EPM Marine Master cable. Once I thought I'd try and save some money and went to a local welding supply store. I ended up spending a decent bit more and...
If considering your own, check this out. Might be an easy way to score the components that are suited for each other. Then, I suspect you can move the pieces of the system to their own locations, redo the lines, and refill with refrigerant and you’re good to go. Might make the diy process...
Oh nice find! I like the form factor… I don’t have to worry about bumping the knob or accidentally spilling something.
From what I understand… with 13.8v I’ll never be able to get the battery totally full as that would require 14.6v. 13.8 will get me 90-95%… right?