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Will do, just waiting for connectors for my solar.

Hello everyone. I was in the process of connecting our new DC-to-DC charger, the Orion xs Smart 12/12-50A. One of the advertised features was its compatibility with 4 AWG (25 mm²) cables. However, I encountered a challenge when attempting to insert all the copper strands into the designated hole...

Indeed, utilizing a higher amperage rating is preferable in this scenario. Considering the 50 amp DC to DC conversion and the 25 feet run, I opted for 4 AWG cables. The price difference between 4 AWG and 6 AWG was negligible.

Thanks for the input

Have not tested, negative ground from van battery to common neg busbar.

Thanks for the reply, very new to all this. Got Wills book and putting every thing solar together.

I routed it under the table top to avoid the wires from crossing. It goes to the solar controller negative. That's 2/0 on the battery, from main battery fuse to positive fuse block is 2/0, and also 2/0 to the inverter negative is 2/0 to the shunt to the bus bar and 2/0 to the inverter...

I just switch over my system to victron solar controller and lynk distributor and a new battery. I was doing some work this morning, so shut off my bluesea 6006, I always check for power and yes volts coming through, is this because the solar controller is feeding the battery? So I should turn...

Are renogy smart lithium batteries stackable (100ah), I can find anything on the web. Ty

Hello John Frum: Do you mind taking a look at our revamped (hopefully final) electrical system in our van. We are using two 100 A Renegy Lithium Smart Batteries. We are using a 250Amp fuse at the battery, a 250 A to the inverter, 60A fuse going to fuse box, 60 A going to the solar controller...

Thank you lots to go over

Wow, thank you, that's a lot of info and we will go over it all and let you take a look. Working on kitchen cabinets now. Once again much appreciated.

I was looking at the renogy 2000 watt inverters, because it has Gfci outlets, do I need Gfci in my van? , I have two 120v outlet one for water heater and one for what ever we need AC power for. Ty

I know I didn't mention but, just above the battery is a breaker for the solar, I just haven't hooked the out cables to charge controller, we will take all info into our rebuild. Thank you

I know, just didn't want tighten everything then have to take it apart again. ? Good eye. Much appreciated.

We thank you all for the input and added info from you guys.

Hello, just finished our electric, (solar cables not hooked up to charge controller yet) , looking for someone to take a look. Ty

That's what I all ready installed are regular outlets so was looking for gfci on an inverter, are those renogy inverters any good? Thanks for the reply.

That was my bad key board auto corrected to the 30 amp TR

No no I put it out there because I want my wife and I and dog to be safe. I love construction criticism. Sometimes the written word gets taken the wrong way. ? All very much appreciated.

Anyone seen these? Only available in the UK, been watching a gentleman on YouTube with a van using them near the arctic. https://roamer.com/

Combo

That's what we thought thanks

OK, I see what you're saying, why not direct to the battery?

I know all lines are loose, and yes to pre charge. Ty

I'm not using a common positive buss bar, it's a MBRF fuse holder, and can't exceed 300 Amps, I have 280 on it now, that why it's hooked to the battery, but yes I need a breaker.

We're using a renogy 50 amp DC/DC MPPT, should the cable be fused/breaker at both ends, van batteries and solar controller?

The one closest to battery terminal is 200 the other is 60 going to charge controller.

The new xs is 50amp