Recent content by prskier17

I'll keep looking, thanks for the comments.

Thanks, after doing more digging it sounds like these connector pins can be removed from the housing but they aren't intended to be and a traditional extractor doesn't work. Because my application requires disassembly seasonally I'll switch to a different connector types. Anything better than...

Are you saying I can remove the crimped pin from the plastic housing? Any trick for this? Do I need a certain tool? This? MENKEY Terminal Removal Tool Kit for Car, 39 Pieces Wire Connector Pin Release Key Extractor Tools Set for Most Connector Terminal https://a.co/d/2khBxdI

I have just completed the installation of solar panels on my boat. One on each side... There is a hole through each side of the boat from the factory the just barely fits an MC4 connector. It's approximately 20mm diameter. The problem is once I get one connector through the second one won't...

Everyone - apologies for the multiple threads. I originally posted in the marine section and then noticed the vehicle section gets a lot more action and was hoping for quick feedback. In hindsight, I shouldn't have done that and apologize. Here is a link to the other thread, I will...

Thanks - this is a potential concern. In an attempt to reduce multiple threads (this one was specific to busbar recommendations), I'm responding to this questions on the other thread here...

Thanks Mike (and apologies for the duplicate thread in the marine section - I will end the use of that one). Prior to this pending install, the outboard was directly connected to the two lithium 100Ah batteries (in parallel) as setup by the previous owner. As a sailboat, the engine is...

Good point... :)

Thanks - I have a shunt as part of my DC panel. I think the SafetyHub 150 is perfect and ordered it an hour ago :). I don't think I'll add anything significant to this boat beyond this.

Any reason this isn't the ideal solution if I go: Batteries > Class-T Fuse > Disconnect Switch > SafetyHub 150 ? The SafetyHub 150 appears to be everything I need and combines the positive busbar (with fuses!) and negative busbar. https://www.bluesea.com/products/7748/SafetyHub_150_Fuse_Block

I am installing 2x 100Ah lithium batteries, 2x 100watt solar panels, MPPT Charger, and a 1000W inverter in a sailboat with an existing DC panel. Attached is my (nearly complete) diagram. I don't have a lot of space where this is being installed and I want to minimize connections. Busbars were...

Thanks Mike, the 9.9HP outboard can only deliver 12amps. The Renogy DC-DC MPPT controller will charge the starter battery from solar once the house batteries are full.

Here's an updated schematic with busbars. It's a bit sloppy but I'll clean it up once I'm converging on the best solution. Based on this, my positive busbar has 5 connections and my negative busbar has 7 connections. I still have to confirm fuse values, but are there any flaws with this...

With regard to the busbar, I like this approach as it is very organized. Should I be concerned with increased resistance, or will it be equivalent to having multiple terminal rings on various studs?

@mikefitz - thanks! I mistyped when I said shore power. What I have is a simple Victron 15A AC-DC charger that I have been using with an extension cord to charge the Renogy batteries while at the dock. I don't have a shore power connection on this boat and do not want to add one (I do not...