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Some wiring diagrams are on the Thor forums. Also I had some emailed to me by tech support.

It isn't just Fed Ex, my 4 Newpowa came USPS and one box looked like it was hit by a fork from a fork lift. Panels had no damage and met both Voc and Isc.

1380X0.2=276 amps required to charge. 710÷12= 59 amps. The first number is battery bank size times a .2c charge rate. The second number is max output from solar on a good day. The mppt's may get you to 70 with the panels in series and cooler days. Hopefully the alternator can make up the...

Panels in series Imp plus or minus 10%. Lowest panel current is what you get. Panels in parallel Vmp plus or minus 1 volt. Imo flexible panels are a very poor choice.

Expert Power 3000 watt/VA? Inverter due in today. Has an excellent manual. Even explains the difference between VA and watts. Also how to figure battery bank size with examples. Allmthe literature says 3000 watt. We'll see. 30 amp ATS, 60 AMP charger both of which I don't need. Again We'll see.

First do an energy audit of your uses. This determines battery bank size. From there you get solar required. It's a pita I know has to be done for best chance of success.

About right on the A/C then the specs say 1360 VA or we can ignore VA and call it watts. No other loads for the inverter at present. All goes out the window if my bride decides rustic no longer suits.

That is how my 4 100/20 victrons are set up. Got 3 after the price drop and easy to change when I make the switch over from 12 volt system.

Aluminum plate mounted, picked up a brace behind the wall to attach it to. Ended up drilling and taping mounting holes for components. Buss bars mounted and wired up. While retesting all connections I found out the midnite solar breakers didn't like 12 and 10 awg wire. It would pull out...

Stone fire ring, not much control over embers. When I can like sit there with morning coffee and watch the sun rise.

I use Midnight Solar breakers between pv and cc and cc to batteries. Turn off pv first.

@sunshine_eggo even after 50 years # 6 is a good reference

In my case can't hear over the ringing in my ears.

Not always true! I've had three RV's so far that had DC black wire as positive and white was negative.

This how we sit around the fire while burning a 🌭.

This type of thing is very common in the RV industry. The last one we bought was mostly correct and only a few had to be fixed right. Hope it works out for you.

Batteries came yesterday. Had trouble getting the App to work but ok after deleting and rebooting the tablet. App is fairly limited, shows soc, voltage, and average cell volts. Also internal temperature. Borrowed a lithium battery charger from a neighbor to get the initial charges done.

This grounding method is typical for the rv industry. I ran mine all to a common buss bar then trough the shut to the frame. Been working fine since 2016, used the same method on the previous rv.

Pull the fuse on the dc to dc and see if the voltage goes away.

Tools don't last as long. My 20 plus year old road kill (found on road) Milwaukee 1/2 drill is on it's last legs. Not to bad for a highway find. Now to find brushes for it.

Been to that rodeo. Added 2nd 105Ah battery to a 160 watt system with 10 amp pwm cc.

This is the system I came up with, panels are 100 watt. Did the same system when we traded for a motor home. Inch and a half home made z brackets, ss hinges, and nutserts or rivnuts. I'll try to link to the whole thing on another forum. Link...

I have to wait until next month to find the receipt for my 1st system. It was 2 -80 watt panels and a Sunsaver 10 cc.

For my portable set on the RV I popped the cover and unsoldered leads. Unscrewed the cord grips and ran 10 AWG through the cord grips tighted down and resoldered.

I bought the tinned version. Last month noticed Signature Solar has something that looks the same, is less money and comes with Panduit cable covers.

I have decided to go with 3 ground mount arrays. 2 will be 4 100 watt panels and the 3rd will be made from the 2 used Trina 240 watt panels. Each array will have it's own mppt cc. At the present time thinking the Victron 100-20 will be my best choice both from redundancy and cost. I will have...

I use a 120 amp battery isolator. Got it at an RV dealer. Ran 8 awg marine wire to the back with breakers at both ends.. Remember with the truck off the battery in the back is an energy source. Still working since 2010.

That is the nice thing about the Victron 100/20 click and grunt, it's now 24 or 48 vdc. Yesterday's snow ❄ pic

Cartridge type fuses are the worst for that type of failure. I use breakers or for fuses MRBF. The MRBF fuse isn't meant for that application.

I'm setting mine up around 4 arrays and 4 100/20 victron smart controllers. This allows me to switch to 24 or 48 volt at a later date.