Hi there! I assume you're wanting to get into solar power, battery storage, inverters, micro-inverters or some mixture of the aforementioned. If not, you're definitely in the wrong forum. If you have a good understanding of electricity and how power flows, you've got a good start. If you have no...
Run a rope first (can vacuum it through the pipe) (Google "fish pull line"). You can tape your line(s) to this rope and use it to pull as many as you dare at a time. Helps if you have a pusher/aligner to make sure the wires are feeding okay.
Keep in mind the Conduit Fill chart...
Since you have Conduit, you have plans to run the cable, it's a choice between wiring for what you have and what you may do in the future. Wiring for the present gets you done for today. Putting a larger wire and fusing/breakering it to your current needs is okay and allows you to put a larger...
I used MRBF for my build. Though, I like the idea of a fuse on each connector... I do have a bunch of extra 100A ANL fuses since it was cheaper to buy 10 than 3 when I did the inverter in my van.
Personally, I'd run for 200a so you never have to risk redoing it all. 2/0 copper 4/0 aluminum
https://up.codes/viewer/texas/nfpa-70-2023/chapter/3/wiring-methods-and-materials#310.12
Your current plan is just under 100a and if you're sure you'll never expand on that or never sell the...
The best bus bar you can get is a '69 mustang. Just put that in the garage and bolt all your wires to it. Might need 2, though (positive and negative)
Alternatively, get a blue sea bus bar rated for your expected current. Or just default to the 600a
Only thing I want to do at this point is fuse each battery, but need to regenerate some funds as fuse blocks and fuses are 'spensive. (Also potentially get 3-6 more batteries later)
6x EG4 Lifepower4
EG4 Rack
Communication Hub
Blue Sea Class T fuse holder and fuse
Blue Sea Switch (Mistakenly...
While your heart is presently set on 12v, 48v may be easier to maintain over time as the trends of home batteries are all 48v that I've seen.
That said, You should figure out peak demand (watts) and daily usage (watt hours) and build around that.
Example: If you use 30KWh/day, you need to be...
it has a rs485 connection on it... From what I've been able to find on a few different searches indicate don't plug this thing in to anything if you like not being on fire.
As it sounds like you're planning on repeating this test; a few suggestions for protection.
1. Have a loop of the wire away from the rest that you'd cut with the branch cutter
2. Swap the branch cutter to an insulated heavy gauge wire cutter
3. That loop should also have a bus bar so you can...
In 15 years of quality setups (no flea market off-brand crap) largest legitimate build I did was 5000 watts. Car had 3 batteries and would quickly drain them doing demos as 2 alternators couldn't keep up. Highest legitimate build I've seen personally is 10kw in an SUV. That beast had 4...
I understood that, and called that out in the latter half of the post. My recommendation of 200a capacity was for future proofing as it's a long, underground run. (In conduit, so easier to rework should the pipes not leak, but that still wastes the original wire cost and time)
The "Sell" is Sell from Battery. "Charge" is charge from grid. Battery first feeds battery before loads from solar (house might be powered from grid while battery charges) Here's my settings to charge when possible. I have % set to 40 (expecting bad weather, live in Texas, who knows if power...
You can also get the wire in bundles (4-3, 2/0-3) from your preferred electrical supply company. Given your conduit run, this may be preferred to running individual wires (as a bundle) through the conduit. And remember: There's always time for lube.
I've recently switched from Enphase Microinverters to a DC solution that included the Tigo optimizers. I've been getting more wattage out of the panels, it seems. When the system was brand new about 6 years ago, it would peak at 7.5kw. Now it's peaking at 9kw. Which is what it should have been...