Most reacted posts

Fair enough. I'll be ok with an underperforming battery (if that is even the case), because I can easily fixt that by tweaking the parameters. I feel these new settings are conservative and safe for the battery.

@lightmail I actually have two versions of the Renogy BT app on my phone. The older version has that rated battery ah setting, the newer one does not. I'm not sure why, the Rover seems to accept the number because every time I press read, it changes the number to the correct number (as opposed...

FYI. https://www.autoevolution.com/news/the-new-tesla-recommendation-for-the-cars-with-lfp-batteries-changes-everything-you-know-177815.html

I've read that too, somewhere about 13.8V So far, during the day with good sun the battery hits 13.8 (according to the Rover) and 13.9 (according to the battery BMS) and capacity stops at 98.0 %(ah) for my 100 ah battery and it doesn't actually hit 100% charge like it did when I had it at the...

This is disappointing, and I cursed a little upon reading your post. I really don't know what is going on here. I haven't seen a high-voltage disconnect, but then again, I haven't really been monitoring it 24/7. For me, it just seems to be either in boost or MPPT charge mode (or charge not...

Using InfluxDB (on Ubuntu in Grafana) and Red-NODE (on RPi Zero 2W), here's the dashboard for a true data logging and remote (and locally-based) access system

These are default (for Li in our case) vs Equalization 14v Boost 14v Float 13.6v

I can see the value of having that meter hawk, that's brilliant! I just purchased it and can use that for many applications. I was also looking at the uni-t meter and flukes, the latter is pricey. The uni-t meter is pretty sensitive at, DC current (A). 0.06~600A. Accuracy:±(2%+5) But then...

and, as was already mentioned, the OP is definitely "under-paneled"

thanks for your reply! I found some information. Turns out, that it doesn't use the power from the battery to heat itself (or it shouldn't), it uses the power coming in from the terminals. This helps me in understanding that part. I'm just curious if the self-heating batteries are more risker...

Thank all for all your help and information here. I hear you all, I have to go with 2P2S or cautiously, 4S. I'm not sure I understand what 1S4P is...if that is what all parallel means, than ok I get it. For the wiring of the solar panels, right now it is rated for the specs above, 6 amps etc...

I know, its kind of strange but it makes sense only because if you are constantly using battery power to run the heaters, you might get into a loop that it kills your battery sooner than later (short term and long term). So its kind of like your in a cold night and the battery can't charge but...

Thanks, @Bob142 for doing some leg work on this. I started to look at other charge controllers to see what they use/do for Li batteries, but then I stopped. Victron definitely has a float in their Li charge profile (and its available in all their manuals) and as we know, Renogy does not have a...

Sorry, Bob142, I got the posts mixed up. I'm using your profile for my Renogy 100 amp Smart lithium battery with self-heater (built-in heater). I live in colder climate. This new changes, shouldn't really affect that. So boost is ok for 10 minutes? I cant change it (if it needs to be). Just to...

Its been getting cold here and I wanted to provide an update on how this self-heating battery works. Really cool actually! My battery temperature went down to 3oC and there was a cold temperature warning in my app. When the sun hit my panels, my Renogy Rover was reporting around 5 amp was going...

thanks, Bob i'll keep an eye out for mine and report any funny business here. Another Rover user I spoke to, reported that using the default Li (LFP) profile, he experiences the same: its either in boost or MPPT when in the sun. No mention specifically about over charging or mis-charging...

I saw this video and it explains quite a few things well about some of the settings we are talking about, above. Good 30 minutes:

thank you very much for your input. I just looked into the LTO battery, and that temperature discharge/charge temperature is pretty impressive! If I really was in a camper or something very remote, this would be a very very good choice. But, I decided to go with the Renogy Smart LiFePO4 with...

thanks! I will make sure not to cut the fuse out. This was my concern, like these little things causing fires, and as for the battery, yes you're right the BMS should cut things out if it deplete the battery too much, but I don't think this will happen unless there is a big problem. The 100 amp...

this is a connection issue. This happens to me all the time. Sometimes it takes 4 or 5 times to connect. Turn off your DC Home app home bluetooth, confirm you're in good BT range (within 20 feet is good), and just keep trying, stop the script, restart it. It will eventually connect and stay...

Thanks for letting us know. I know of many others having the same problem. I've heard if that if you place the switch to 50 Hz, it fixes it. Most electronics, at least in North America, support 50 to 60 Hz. Check yours and try out the 50 Hz setting.

so, I did one better. I converted that old computer to a Ubuntu machine. So, now I can have it one 24/7 to hepl with the resouces. I just have to figure out how to put all the peices together. Back to your 4 step instuctions: Install an MQTT server like Mosquitto somewhere; could even be on...

Yes, I have it running and plotting to Grafana with influxDB. With HA, you'll have to use mosquitto and set you machine up as a broker (receives the data). If you have a seperate broker on another machine, you'll have to actived the broker mqtt in the configuation.yaml of HA and it imports...

Great information! I might just leave it at its most efficient setting (all parallel) just because in the winter there's very little sun and it gets cold so perhaps that few percent might help. But again I'm willing to experiment this. I'm having a hard time finding a 40 amp class T-Type...

check out the "Harsh Environment" sub forum here, you may find lots of information there.

@Poverty Pony that's a good point about load compatibility. I was using a battery charger for my DeWalt power tools. I should try a light bulb (the old incandescent ones, not low power ones), because the load has to be more than 50 W to trigger normal mode from Eco mode. @Dennis 1 is that...

After our discussion above and watching this video: I have changed my charge profile to this: High Voltage Disconnect: 14.2 V Charge Limit Voltage: 14.0 V Equalize Charge Volt: 13.8 V Boost Charge Volt: 13.8 V Float Charge Volt: 13.8 V Boost Charge Return Volt: 13.2 V Over Disc Return Volt...

I think the script would need to be updated somehow, to read the off BT-2. The line with kCBAdvDataServiceUUIDs = (FF00) and then add it to the "class Config():" with possible parameters that the Renogy battery can display...but, I can't really offer much now...

input_X is solar panels charge_X is battery and the third set is load related as for the connection issues, that just there us a poor connections. I find that sometimes I need to start/stop the script 5 times for it connect and send data. After it connects, it might go 3 to 4 weeks before it...

so just curious, how many parameters can you support now? CAn you do history in addition to the orginal script?