Current can't be 'sent' if it cannot be received.
Current is drawn by a load, not pushed by a source.
If the display is saying that it's charging, it is charging.
If the battery declined to the point of your 'to grid' setting and then the sun came up it's in that cycle and stuck there until it reaches your 'back to battery' setting. so yes, it is possible that you would have lots of solar but still be on grid because you're back to battery voltage is set...
You need to top balance the cells.
You have .504 volt differential between the lowest and the highest cell.
When you are charging, one cell is way ahead of the others and hits high voltage disconnect. When you're discharging one cell is way ahead of the others and you hit low voltage disconnect...
Solar panels almost never make their rated Watts. And they must be pointed at the Sun. It is not daylight that energizes them it is 90° sunshine striking the panels that energizes them.
I recall seeing something on solar assistants website about raspberry pi 4 not working. Which is why when you buy their service with the hardware it comes with a raspberry pi 3
But the only way to "continue charging" is with a higher voltage.
Not sure I understand now this "low current overcharge" happens if your charger is set correctly.
Not sure conjun...is a word but...
Yes, with an all in one unit from MppSolar.
My lv3048's blend grid and solar and battery based on settings that I have input.
Up to the max capacity of the inverter.
How are the outputs wired to your loads?
I, too am split phase with 2 boxes.
My L1 and L2 are ALWAYS different but neither is ever zero.
To me that looks like you don't have a load hooked up to the second inverter.
And you are concerned about 48 volts being 0%?
That's what the shunt has learned is 0%.
In my system I set back to grid at 50 volts and 50 volts is now my 0%.
As far as solar not being enough to charge above 35%, I don't think you have enough solar. Especially if an AC charger is able to charge...