Mine are around 3.45V, take it for what it's worth. I don't see the point of starting earlier, and rarely go to 3.55V per cell in the first place (3.5V is 'full' for all intends and purposes).
It also depends on the distance you need to cover, since R = ρ x L / A with:
R the resistance of the cable
Rho (ρ) the resistivity of the material (e.g. copper)
L the length of the cable
A the cross section of the conductor
So if you have longer distances to cover, you need to increase the...
You're talking about a jelly roll consisting of anode/cathode material holding a charge, with a potential energy release of up to 1kWh per cell. You have to respect those things.
That's not what a semiconductor fuse is though. A semiconductor fuse is named as such because it's designed to protect electronic equipment (such as inverters). They're essentially really fast fuses, but don't contain electronics themselves.
You need to do a calculation so you're not cycling the pump all the time. That said, with a variable frequency drive in these it tends not to be an issue.
You can hook up both to the same tank. That's what I do: I have a 40kW wood gasifier coupled to a 3000L buffer. The heat pump sits on that...
From what you have posted and from what I see on the sceenshots, it just looks like a battery cycling and using all the energy. Maybe you can run a long time screen recording session to figure out your actual consumption, or use a kill-a-watt like device on the output of your inverter. Measure...
The BMS reporting state of charge likely needs a full cycle to 'learn' what is full and empty. LFP state of charge can not be determined by voltage, so you need to do Coulomb counting. It's impossible to know this with a new battery.
And they've been used in industry for a long time already:
https://heatpumpingtechnologies.org/annex58/wp-content/uploads/sites/70/2022/07/emersonhthpannex58templatesuppliertechnologyrev5.pdf
But yeah, COP is limited. I personally don't really see the need of over-complicating these things...
For reference, this one is mine:
https://www.orionairsales.co.uk/powerworld-pw030-dkzlrs-bs-easyplus-evi-air-heat-pump-cooling-r32-840kw-230v1ph50hz60hz-17183-p.asp
Takes care of 120m^2 and all domestic hot water in spring/autumn, so your 8kW idea for your unit sounds ok, you can probably go...
Yeah, a house needs to be designed for this from the start. HRV has been standard here in Finland for decades, so I tend to forget that this is not the case in other places...
I just edited that in to my comment. You need an ERV/HRV system... But remember that it's not just the floor getting cold (just like low temp radiant floor heating is not about the floor getting warm). The floor also acts as a sink for IR radiation that would otherwise add heat to the room.
So, I have underfloor heating in winter which I use with a heat-pump (a monoblock) in summer for cooling. This works wonderfully where I am in my climate, where we maybe have a week (two at most) of cooling needs per year with temperatures at most reaching 30C for a few days max. The only thing...