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Is it acceptable to use a standard wall switch for a low amperage DC application?

Would you use a standard 110Vac wall toggle switch for low amperage 12Vdc application?

  • Yes

    Votes: 29 65.9%
  • No

    Votes: 15 34.1%

  • Total voters
    44
I would keep it under 12 amps and use it.

For offgrid household use, there are DC led bulbs that can be used in standard household lamp holders (both BC and ES are available) and run directly off the battery bank- in fact I use them here myself...
These are two different types I use- one is the standard 'looks like a standard LED bulb' and the other is one designed for 'fancy lamps' like a table lamp and bedside table lamps... (or if you had any lamp with exposed bulbs like a chandelier or the like)- both are available in various colour ranges from 'incandescent' yellow to 'blue-white' so you can choose your desired colour...
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Runs off 12v-85v, DC or AC...

And yes, I use normal Australian light switches on them...

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(despite appearances- the 230v mains powerpoints are totally separate and just 'cross' behind the roof support in flexi-dute- the light switch and light are totally independent and are currently running at 12vdc from the battery bank...)
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I use 'blue/white for the workshop side, but 'incandescent yellow' in the living quarters as it is too 'white' for my tastes but the 'blue/white' is better when you need to see details...
YES, I have a lot of 48v light bulbs that I plan to use in any scenario that requires strict power rationing. Lights without the use of an inverter is KEY.
 
YES, I have a lot of 48v light bulbs that I plan to use in any scenario that requires strict power rationing. Lights without the use of an inverter is KEY.
Biggest advantage of these is that they are multivoltage (so work regardless of battery voltage from 12v up to 85v) plus they look just like 'normal' mains voltage bulbs and can be used in any normal lighting fixture (ES or BC) so to all appearances your offgrid house looks completely 'normal' (a far cry from my first place in the 1980's- where I used 'car blinker bulbs' hanging from the ceiling for lighting, and car spotlights for yard lighting...)
 
Biggest advantage of these is that they are multivoltage (so work regardless of battery voltage from 12v up to 85v) plus they look just like 'normal' mains voltage bulbs and can be used in any normal lighting fixture (ES or BC) so to all appearances your offgrid house looks completely 'normal' (a far cry from my first place in the 1980's- where I used 'car blinker bulbs' hanging from the ceiling for lighting, and car spotlights for yard lighting...)

Have a few of them in service including an Edison bulb for decoration.

The problem with those is when you forget and screw them into a regular socket.

Poof!🤣
 
Also,

Decora Snap switches are like 75 cents each. Even if they fail every couple years, who cares?

They won't but still, who cares?
 
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(a far cry from my first place in the 1980's- where I used 'car blinker bulbs' hanging from the ceiling for lighting, and car spotlights for yard lighting...)
That's what our off grid cabin is right now, is it's literally sealed incandescent headlight bulb housings for outdoor spotlights and like wide beam truck reverse lights for interior flood lighting.

FAR from efficient. 🤣


This new setup with the string lights and low voltage e26 bulbs would've been a pipe dream 15 years ago.
 

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I am imagining car fenders and interiors hanging all over the place...
Like a 50's diner with a car theme...
 
That's what our off grid cabin is right now, is it's literally sealed incandescent headlight bulb housings for outdoor spotlights and like wide beam truck reverse lights for interior flood lighting.

FAR from efficient. 🤣


This new setup with the string lights and low voltage e26 bulbs would've been a pipe dream 15 years ago.
Replacing with modern LED bulbs will give a FAR better life for the batteries per night, and far more light to boot...
Plus look so much better lol
 
I didn't specify, but for now these are actually going to be run off of the 12 volt port off of our Bluetti unit at our cabin.

But I have a few of those wide range bulbs inside for my 36v battery system, they work great no matter what SOC is.
 
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Replacing with modern LED bulbs will give a FAR better life for the batteries per night, and far more light to boot...
Plus look so much better lol
Oh for sure.
It hasn't been what we had totally relied on all this time, although the system has still been there. We still use it occasionally.

In the past 10 years or so we have had generators up there and use regular incandescent bulbs.

And now obviously switched over to standard LED bulbs and now with the plethora of different a Power Stations that I have I actually rarely ever fire up the generator either.
 
I didn't specify, but for now these are actually going to be run off of the 12 volt port off of our Bluetti unit at our cabin.

But I have a few of those wide range bulbs inside for my 36v battery system, they work great no matter what SOC is.
That's an advantage (and a disadvantage lol)
I could tell the battery voltage in my first place just by the colour of the bulbs at night...
;-)
But the LEDs just 'work' and give the same (full) brightness regardless of battery voltage...
 
Sweet, I'm happy to hear that those all work for you on a normal light switch.

That's actually what I bought as well already.
I bought some 12v rated lightbulbs and few e26 style wall sconces for more directional lighting and then a bunch of 12v string lights for everywhere else.
I'm sure it will work, however FWIT, in your poll question, you specified " a standard 110 Vac wall toggle switch".
Every wall switch I've ever seen has a minimum rating of 120 Vac, which should do fine at 12Vdc.
A switch rated for 110 Vdc is a little on the low side for the 10 % "rule of thumb".

Given the ambiguity in your poll question, I think all respondents can be considered correct.
 
I'm sure it will work, however FWIT, in your poll question, you specified " a standard 110 Vac wall toggle switch".
Every wall switch I've ever seen has a minimum rating of 120 Vac, which should do fine at 12Vdc.
A switch rated for 110 Vdc is a little on the low side for the 10 % "rule of thumb".

Given the ambiguity in your poll question, I think all respondents can be considered correct.
Eh, I've always said 110v ambiguously interchangeably with 115 and 120v.
 
I run 26V bare LED strings (no electronics) in my kitchen switched via regular wall switch and powered from DC power supply. Never been a problem. Tried switching my water heater element from same type of a switch on 44Vdc and there was big continuous arc!
 
Maybe I should mention that they are 12V 3W recessed ceiling lights, sold to the RV community. And 4 under-cabinet sticks of 9W each.

One switch controls 6 of the 3W cans = 18W = 1.5A.
Another switch controls 4 of the under cabinet ones.. 36W = 3A. The other switches control 1A or less.
Still good to know.

All of my LED lighting combined probably won't be anywhere near the theoretical limit of 10A.
 
Besides voltage and amperage ratings, most manufacturers also spec expected lifetime and/ or number of on/off cycles.
Almost all AC switches will work with DC but the lifetime can be shortened if the DC specs are exceeded.
If no DC specs, use the 10% rule as stated in a few previous post, or just plan on replacing the switch occasionally.
 
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