timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2022
- Messages
- 19,105
There should be error codes telling why it shutdown.
How do I look up this error code; I do have a "Notice" and a "Warning" light.There should be error codes telling why it shutdown.
Maybe touch the "notice" on the screen?How do I look up this error code; I do have a "Notice" and a "Warning" light.
I also noticed that this is giving me no consumption numbers at all; just giving me the below picture; and its been running for a couple days now.
thanks. I don’t see any L3 (typically Gray wire) being used. is that true?See attached pictures.
I find this amusing & true. I was working in the MDF at work after he mis-wired my effing brand new UPS outputs to a short blowing a board. I stuck a meter on the feed got something like 215, I said "215, seems OK", and got a "That's low it should be 240" response. I had just watched him pull a dual breaker off a 3-phase panel. I'd rather avoid having a residential electrician friendly with the higher up's working on commercial power. Grid 240 around here is more like 245. I think "they" boost it to the upper limits to increase total wattage availability. "They" do the same thing with water, I had to put a pressure regulator on my house 10 years back, they blew up a hot water line in the slab, measured the pressure at 140 at my bib next to the feed. It's back to, and normally around 60.I work on 208 often. And I see it coming from the utility around 220. I rarely see 208. It is always higher in my area. If I see 218 on a 208 service, I consider it good.
Good catch.You probably need to turn that all off and wait until you have read the manual and understand what's going on. Those tiny wires are going to burn up in short order. You also need to find out what the current rating is on the tankless water heater and the pool pump.
You don't have the correct size conductors.I also have everything in the off position; battery breaker, PV and the side Off and ON; I just plugged in the wifi doggle and am able to update the firmware. Sorry I usually take caution and rather talk to Signature Solar to do step by step; with dipsticks etc...
Correct, he's only connected to one of the phases.thanks. I don’t see any L3 (typically Gray wire) being used. is that true?
So one theoretical concern I have is that this will work OK at the upper tolerance range of 120/208. But this 127/220 would be the nominal grid voltage which has its own upper tolerance, which would be above the U.S. upper toleranceI work on 208 often. And I see it coming from the utility around 220. I rarely see 208. It is always higher in my area. If I see 218 on a 208 service, I consider it good.
If he has a 220V load on L2 and L3, and L2 goes through the 18kPV but L3 doesn't, and the grid drops out, the inverter will only be powering L2 and N. What will will happen?Correct, he's only connected to one of the phases.
In a split-phase configuration. (L1, L2, N, G)
Bad things will happen.If he has a 220V load on L2 and L3, and L2 goes through the 18kPV but L3 doesn't, and the grid drops out, the inverter will only be powering L2 and N. What will will happen?
the phases are 120° apart. Not two legs of one phase.And aren't L1 and L2 only 120 degrees apart? Shouldn't the 18kPV be told that?
That's what I've been worried about (for the OP).Bad things will happen.
Mental model has been corrected, thank you.the phases are 120° apart. Not two legs of one phase.
Spend a little time researching "3-phase" power, but what you are doing is sending three lower current feeds instead of one higher current one. It's likely your 3-phase is 50A or so, this means you run a smaller gauge wire , but three conductors, so you get 3X the current 50A, or 150A total vs a single 240v/150A service. This gives you THREE sources of 208v between each of the hot legs L1-L2, L1-L3, and L2-L3, but it limits each to 50A.