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diy solar

House burned down

At least the OP got out safe.

Makes me worried about my system: 4 chins 12v LFP's wired in series with a single fuse between them and the inverter. Sitting on concrete, but with only 7' above to the TJI joists/subfloor.

If my chins decided to leak I wouldn't know it as they are in a case.
 
Did the fuse sustain an arc and ignite combustible material?

Or did the cell fail, get backfed so it over-charged and vented, and is backfed current in that case sufficient to blow fuse?
If so, fuse is not explosion-proof and would be source of ignition.
The fuse holders as on the pictures are certified and "fire retardant" if thats correctly written.
What the exact cause of fire was i guess well never know. The fire expert pinpointed that fuse as the source of the fire. His knowledge about fires, temperatures, etc was amazing.
 
The fuse holders as on the pictures are certified and "fire retardant" if thats correctly written.
What the exact cause of fire was i guess well never know. The fire expert pinpointed that fuse as the source of the fire. His knowledge about fires, temperatures, etc was amazing.
Fuses might provide the spark/arc upon an over current situation but something combustible nearby has to burn. So point of ignition possibly but does not explain much.
 
If so, fuse is not explosion-proof and would be source of ignition.
Here is the first post where the OP mentioned to problem. I think somewhere in another thread he may have also posted in a thread where a battery was the cause of a fire. I don't think we know what caused the fuse to melt.

Inspection of the fire expert revealed that a melt fuse melted, and created an arc between the 2 points wich ultimatly started the fire.
 
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These are the types of events that keep me up at night. One thing that gives me a bit of peace of mind is having an automatic CO2 fire suppression system in the building where our batteries/inverters are. I don't want to just know there's an issue, I want the issue stopped ASAP to prevent further damage. CO2 also won't damage anything in an electrical fire like H2O would. It just removes the oxygen.

 
These are the types of events that keep me up at night. One thing that gives me a bit of peace of mind is having an automatic CO2 fire suppression system in the building where our batteries/inverters are. I don't want to just know there's an issue, I want the issue stopped ASAP to prevent further damage. CO2 also won't damage anything in an electrical fire like H2O would. It just removes the oxygen.

That's a pretty cool idea and more economically achievable than I thought. I have a vent to the outdoors so I could add one of these to blow into the case if the smoke alarm went off. PSSSHHHHHHHHHH.

But then I think I'd still have an ongoing venting event after it was done. They're a prolonged kind of problem.
 
Some people still believe that. Reality is that it's not true anymore.
I put my car's battery on top of a box in my garage to keep it off the floor because I had heard this tale and had no idea if there was any truth to it or not. It made no sense to me but I erred on the side of caution anyway (I've gone through too many batteries for this car from stupid mistakes killing them lol)
 

“A hundred years ago, this rule-of-thumb was quite useful, as the case around the battery was made of wood and the electrical cells were glass. If the concrete floor underneath was wet, the wooden case would swell, causing the glass cells to break.”
 
So is the take away from this that we should all use appropriate sized T class fuses on the +ve of each battery, and after the bus bar they parallel to?
 
So is the take away from this that we should all use appropriate sized T class fuses on the +ve of each battery, and after the bus bar they parallel to?
Personally I use midnite DC breakers but the t class takes less room. For the blue boy brigade the class t lynx power ins are the "seamless" option.
 
The picture in that article hurts me lol. Those are nice batteries too.
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Wow, very Sorry for you loss. Glad to hear you and your family are safe!
This served to heighten my internal debate about diy'ing my own batteries even greater.

The CO2 fire suppression system that @Cronix posted is a phenomenal idea, it'll be added to my list of must haves.
 
The CO2 fire suppression system that @Cronix posted is a phenomenal idea, it'll be added to my list of must haves.
Just remember that NMC chemistry creates oxygen during thermal runaway so CO2 or any form of fire suppression that relies on depriving the fire of oxygen will not be effective for that part of a fire if you are planning on using that type of Lithium Ion chemistry. The safer chemistry is LFP and most of the DIY packs described on this forum is the most used chemistry. CO2 or other fire suppression methods would have worked in the OP's case to put out the fire that apparently started in the wiring.
 
Wow, very Sorry for you loss. Glad to hear you and your family are safe!
This served to heighten my internal debate about diy'ing my own batteries even greater.

The CO2 fire suppression system that @Cronix posted is a phenomenal idea, it'll be added to my list of must haves.
These are the types of events that keep me up at night. One thing that gives me a bit of peace of mind is having an automatic CO2 fire suppression system in the building where our batteries/inverters are. I don't want to just know there's an issue, I want the issue stopped ASAP to prevent further damage. CO2 also won't damage anything in an electrical fire like H2O would. It just removes the oxygen.



Don't get to excited about a CO2 extinguisher in the case of LFP batteries. You actually need a Class C extinguisher, for electrical fires. A CO2 extinguisher would need to be in an enclosed space and enough volume to actually cool the equipment without condensing conductive moisture all over the place. The condensate itself isn't the problem so much as what dust and other particles are on the surface. And then you have corrosion issues after cleanup. Actually you will have these issues after cleanup no matter what.

If you want to depend on a CO2 extinguisher its trigger should also do a rapid shutdown of all the power sources or it will re-flash as soon as the door is opened.

And in general CO2 extinguisher are forbidden anyplace people are working in a confined space because it will smother them too. There is a reason shipboard firefighting depends on water and/or foam - confined spaces the fire burns the O2 and kills the crew. Releasing CO2 in a confined space would do it faster.
 
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