diy solar

diy solar

SRNE 12kW IP65 HES and 10kW ASP

realpinochet said:
Depends, what is SRNE reputation for reliability, customer service and warranty? If you're relying on it to keep the lights on and the meat in the deep freezer good do you really want the cheapest option? I've never looked into SRNE so I don't know their history, if they can provide a comparable product to midnite, Schneider and solark then sure I can see this causing a disturbance in the force.
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My limited experience has been very positive. Coming up on 4.5MWh PV on my ASF since installing it last fall.
It's kept my lights on, meat frozen, mini split working and well pump running.
I wouldn't hesitate to leave it unattended for months, I was a bit nervous at first after commissioning.
I've had one random error/fault that didn't affection operation. I had a reply within hours after contacting the support email on their website. They provided possible causes, steps to reset the unit if needed and a new firmware after I asked if there was one available; they did advise to not update unless the issues came back.
There is a pile of info, charts, video starting air-compressor, etc in my build thread.

In the past I've said I'm dead set on a Schneider XW pro someday. I don't know that I feel that way anymore.

If I had to complain about anything on my ASF it would be the idle consumption isn't the best and the MPPTs don't seem to be quite as efficient as a Victron 100/20 I installed because I thought the SRNE numbers were exaggerated, they weren't.

I've coined it Some Really Nice Equipment. I have no idea what SRNE really stands for.
 
Mattb4 said:
Midnite DIY AIO's are SRNE. Schneider is not Chinese sourced but Sol-Ark is.

It is a bit hard to guess reliability for many of these new models, brands and companies though Schneider has been around the longest and its old equipment was considered some of the best. Midnite has a very good reputation for service. However things can change abruptly and it is hard to foresee the future.
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Right, SRNE is definitely not new to making inverters.
Midnite trusted them enough to brand label them. That says a lot.
The Chinese are definitely capable of making very reliable equipment, if they are provided the incentive.
I like buying a product that the maker is willing to put their own name on.
They are risking their reputation by doing that. Most can't afford to make faulty equipment as it can greatly affect future sales.
If you have someone brand label your equipment, you avoid direct blowback from faulty equipment.
When the 18KPV has issues, does Lux Power take the hit? Not really. They probably should, but EG4 and Signature Solar gets to take the fall.
 
TK1979 said:
Is that a rail the hots are tieng into?
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That's supposed to show the bus bar in the main panel. I guess I drew it incorrectly, if wiring to a double pole breaker L1 would be on the top and L2 on the bottom (or red on top and black on bottom). Key point is keeping the same leg together.
 
42OhmsPA said:
So this would be correct for 2 ASP split phase in parallel, correct?
View attachment 212254
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If you want to use that much wire. Personally, I'd install a trough and use either the junction blocks inside or Polaris type connectors. If you want to cheap out, then use a junction box close to the inverters with junction blocks or Polaris type connectors but usually by the time you buy a nice rated box, you might as well buy a trough. I need to start looking for one.

Inside the breaker box you will need either a two lug terminal or a Polaris type connector.
 
B-Mod said:
Why wouldn't you guys backfeed breakers in a panel? That gives you output protection on the inverter.
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When I did my system, I backfed a small 70A double pole breaker panel shown in this photo above the trough. I did make a hold down kit work for it, next time I'd use a bigger panel, more choices for a hold down. From there is goes to double pole double throw switch.

How did this get into the discussion?


Inverters and charge controllers.jpg
 
Zwy said:
When I did my system, I backfed a small 70A double pole breaker panel shown in this photo above the trough. I did make a hold down kit work for it, next time I'd use a bigger panel, more choices for a hold down. From there is goes to double pole double throw switch.

How did this get into the discussion?


View attachment 212311
Click to expand...
We are discussing how to tie these in to a panel. I would skip the polaris and lug splitter stuff and just back feed a panel with breakers from each inverter (with proper breaker holders of course). This gives you more options for protection, and more places to disconnect and service stuff. Just my 2 cents, not worth much these days.....
 
Zwy said:
If you want to use that much wire. Personally, I'd install a trough and use either the junction blocks inside or Polaris type connectors. If you want to cheap out, then use a junction box close to the inverters with junction blocks or Polaris type connectors but usually by the time you buy a nice rated box, you might as well buy a trough. I need to start looking for one.

Inside the breaker box you will need either a two lug terminal or a Polaris type connector.
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Oh I'll 100% be using a trough of at least 6x6 and I'll likely just end up using 2 double poles Into a panel as @B-Mod suggests. I do also like the polaris connector method with 1 home run back to a single double pole.
I have this really bad trait of overthinking things and trying to re-invent the wheel in the process.
Now that I'm thinking about it Midnite does have some double pole din rail AC breakers. Lol I'm off to another topic.
 
B-Mod said:
We are discussing how to tie these in to a panel. I would skip the polaris and lug splitter stuff and just back feed a panel with breakers from each inverter (with proper breaker holders of course). This gives you more options for protection, and more places to disconnect and service stuff. Just my 2 cents, not worth much these days.....
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Two wires can not be under one lug.

Read the NEC even if the system will not be inspected. A multiwire lug or Polaris type connector will be required.
 
42OhmsPA said:
Oh I'll 100% be using a trough of at least 6x6 and I'll likely just end up using 2 double poles Into a panel as @B-Mod suggests.
Click to expand...

How are you connecting the two wires on L1 and the two wires on L2 from each inverter?

I don't think I've ever seen a 100A quad breaker.

42OhmsPA said:
I do also like the polaris connector method with 1 home run back to a single double pole.
Click to expand...

Use the Polaris or like Engineer775 uses the junction blocks. Or use a cheap 100A panel, with double lugs on the input for the 2 wire on each leg, 100A double pole on output to your transfer switch or main panel, whichever you prefer.

I prefer transfer switch myself.

42OhmsPA said:
I have this really bad trait of overthinking things and trying to re-invent the wheel in the process.
Now that I'm thinking about it Midnite does have some double pole din rail AC breakers. Lol I'm off to another topic.
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If you like spending money.

I prefer something easily sourced, carried by many vendors so you can shop for the deal and is cheap.

The stacked lugs are cheap, about $7 each. Takes 2. Small breaker panel with 80A to 100A double pole (if the inverters do output fully in parallel of 10Kw per leg). The breaker will cost more than the panel.

Buy 2 of these for $19.12 each and be done with it.
 
One 2-pole breaker per split-phase inverter, or per 2x single-phase inverter.
I initially used 2x QO270 for 4x SI 6048US.

Problem I had was current imbalance feeding through grid.
I now use 2x 2-pole Midnight/CBI 60A breakers in another box. Wired to 2 wire lugs on main lug only panel.
 
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