There's a power in. Still a work in progress. Eventually all batteries will have one of those close to the terminals, prior to the power in. And then a Victron rotary switch between the power in and the distributor in place the mnedc250.
The big ones (175A and 250A are front panel mount), no way to din mount them due to their connection posts.
Yes just a work in progress, eventually all the exposed terminals etc will be covered. It's just a distortion from the wide angle lens, the body of the smartshunt would prevent the terminals from shorting out.
I have to put some cement board there it's just drywall right now. It's an rs450/100 SCC.
You're allowed to have a fuse and a breaker. Breakers are very handy for taking a battery offline if required.
In that case I would say you want a disconnect.
The breaker can fulfill the over current and disconnect functions. Class t and switch per battery being the alternative.
I'm of the opinion, and I'm in the minority, that breakers are so bad at the over current part that it's actually more dangerous to have them in the mix. I'll take a disconnect and a fuse. I don't want the disconnect trying to do the fuse's job.
I would agree that unless you pony up for a fully rated breaker like a midnite mnedc you are better off with nothing versus some of the junk that passes as DC breakers.
I see nothing wrong with having two levels of overcurrent protection, one for low level events to provide basic overcurrent protection as well as one which can handle a much more severe fault (e.g. a battery short).
Surely that depends on the quality of the breaker?
Just speaking for myself here but I don't have a concept of a low level event for DC overcurrents in my system. I am happy to pay the $40 to have the class T do the job.
diysolarforum.com
Once you have the littlefuse # you can search for them everywhere. Even Home Depot sells them.
I believe both reported fires share a suspicion of a lack of separator.
