Its an MNEDC 250They provide the same protection as a T class?
I'm sure you've mentioned it somewhere in this thread but I didn't see it. In your use case, which specific Midnite DC breaker are you using? Link if you're feeling generous!
That's the route I took and I'm very glad I did.You're allowed to have a fuse and a breaker. Breakers are very handy for taking a battery offline if required.
Have you looked at the specs for Midnite / Carling Tech breakers? MNEDCI'm of the opinion, and I'm in the minority, that breakers are so bad at the over current part that it's actually more dangerous to have them in the mix. I'll take a disconnect and a fuse. I don't want the disconnect trying to do the fuse's job.
Link if you're feeling generous!
There was a nice metal battery cabinet available on Amazon I forget where the link was.I'm seriously reconsidering using a DIY wood ended box. On all metal shelves that I intend on putting metal doors on, but... hm.
I have more respect for Midnite breakers than any other. Those are vetted for the purpose.Have you looked at the specs for Midnite / Carling Tech breakers? MNEDC
"MidNite's Breakers Are Rated To Break The Full Rated Load At The Rated Voltage Repeatedly, With NO DAMAGE. Always Use A Properly Sized Breaker For Disconnecting.
Some reviews showed what folks came up with for mounting solutions:I'd like to see a dielectric object ("insulating busbar") between breaker lug and shunt. Or a least a longer negative jumper.
Right now they can pivot to touch. Are those unprotected, straight from battery?
How about a panel?
Ideally, square knock-out in metal, with holes for the screws.
Maybe just two rectangular pieces, one for top and one for bottom. After mounting, cover with two more rectangles to keep fingers out.
Typical breaker panel bezels have twist-out pieces leaving a square hole, probably not the right dimensions.
I haven't used any bezel mount yet, only plug-on or DIN rail.
Alte store had them on sale for $47 each so I picked up a few, less than a class T when you take the fuse holder into account.I have more respect for Midnite breakers than any other. Those are vetted for the purpose.
But they're just as expensive or more expensive than fuses, so you see less people actually using them, and I'm not personally tempted.
Couldn’t agree more. In a 5k-50k total setup cost, a few hundred bucks could literally be life savingI'm taking all three conclusions:
1. Class T Fuses
2. Cells in metal boxes
3. 5 side FR4 separation
I could not agree more, that's why I did all three.I believe both reported fires share a suspicion of a lack of separator.
I'm taking all three conclusions:
1. Class T Fuses
2. Cells in metal boxes
3. 5 side FR4 separation
Power shed is definitely the ultimate goal and the hardest to attain. When I ran my ground mount conduit I also ran a 1"conduit half way as preparation to build one there some day. Then I can dig up my PV conduit and bring it up into the shed, and send power to the house through the 1".I could not agree more, that's why I did all three.
Having the whole electric room a safe distance from the House is the way to cover the unknown possibilities.
I am skeptical of the fuse being the initial cause, based on the fact that this happened at night with very low currents.
My though is, it could have been a cell that internally shorted, caught on fire and the fuse blew after the fire had already started melting things, one thing falls on top of another, etc.
Everyone is running out, pointing fingers, and changing out their fuses...the thing I'd like to point out is that every devastating fire I've seen on this forum was using raw cells. Not a single one I can recall use pre-built batteries that were fully contained in metal boxes holding smaller quantities of cells within. I'd argue that the metal boxes are what slow down and often times smother out the fires - Seplos makes some and I think they just make sense if you insist on DIYing your batteries.
The only issue I have with that analysis is that spontaneous combustion for what ever reason is highly unlikely with LiFePO4 chemistry. It it more likely with NMC or LIPO. I agree with the thought that we do not know what the reason for the fuse to melt and that is the big question? This system did have 100 kWhs of capacity so that is a lot of energy accross that kind of fuse.My though is, it could have been a cell that internally shorted, caught on fire and the fuse blew after the fire had already started melting things, one thing falls on top of another, etc.
When I got serious about running my home with batteries, I dumped the wood boxes and went metal case.I'm seriously reconsidering using a DIY wood ended box. On all metal shelves that I intend on putting metal doors on, but... hm.
I think the important part is that with the pre-built batteries from a reputable manufacturer you also automatically get rid of a lot of the questionable practices that people have done when building raw cell DIY batteries on a shelf. I also wonder about assuming the metal boxes would snuff out the fires when we now have pre-built batteries with fire extinguishers within the metal cases. Lots of unknowns here.Not a single one I can recall use pre-built batteries that were fully contained in metal boxes holding smaller quantities of cells within. I'd argue that the metal boxes are what slow down and often times smother out the fires - Seplos makes some and I think they just make sense if you insist on DIYing your batteries.
Seplos, apexium, luyuan, EEL, are some common ones. Apexium are made by Docan. I have EEL that are supposed to be Seplos clones. Some will let you customize to spec with breakers, fuses, etc. I believe @Steve_S got some real nice luyuan boxes doneSomeone recommend me a case for Eve 230Ah cells plz... heh