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diy solar

House burned down

I guess for my own ability to be able to sleep and not be concerned about the LFP Cells catching the house on fire, I would hope to believe that with OP's setup then if he would have used the class T fuses, then the fuse would have opened and that would be the end of the story.
In my opinion, yes….
 
Right but the root cause that made the fuse blow in the first place is what everyone is interested in. To sustain an arc there needs to be high current flow, not just normal use. Where was all the current going and why?
The only answer that makes sense to me is that one of his LFP banks had a defective Cell. The result would be that all of the other LFP banks would start to dump their power into the bank. I can think of no other reason for a fuse to arc. The current needs to go somewhere.
 
Into a failed pack….. parallel packs always need inter-pack fusing, with stuff that won’t catch fire. We were discusssing this 15+yrs ago on the outback power forum when I was messing with wet Nicad…
Agreed, this seems the most likely.
 
So maybe I don't need to be so worried about going to a metal case since I have both class T and stupid honkin' big MCCBs. Between them nothing should blow up.

But I might do the metal boxes just so these darn things are finished already...
 
Yes, that was my reasoning as well. A cell fails, the other packs dumping massive amounts of current into the pack, the fuses not able to handle it/arcing, cells (or even just one) venting, and the arcing fuse igniting the vent gasses. If the current was high enough, probably none of the fuses on the different packs would be able to quench the arcs (which is why a high AIC is required for these). I do wonder how that high of a current could develop even with a single cell shorted. I also wonder what the BMS was doing...

Of course, this is all speculation on available data, but I think it's a useful thing to do.

For reference, I have shorted two parallel 48V LFP packs in the past (on purpose). Both the JK BMS on them and the Class T fuse were able to deal with this. I even bypassed the BMS at one point to see how the Class T fuse would handle it on its own. It was essentially a non-event.
 
So sorry to hear about your loss. Ive had 2 fires in my life, neither destroyed my home, and they were awful.

Free advice, hire an independent adjuster when dealing with your insurance company. Well worth whatever they charge.
 
Yes, that was my reasoning as well. A cell fails, the other packs dumping massive amounts of current into the pack, the fuses not able to handle it/arcing, cells (or even just one) venting, and the arcing fuse igniting the vent gasses. If the current was high enough, probably none of the fuses on the different packs would be able to quench the arcs (which is why a high AIC is required for these). I do wonder how that high of a current could develop even with a single cell shorted. I also wonder what the BMS was doing...

Of course, this is all speculation on available data, but I think it's a useful thing to do.

For reference, I have shorted two parallel 48V LFP packs in the past (on purpose). Both the JK BMS on them and the Class T fuse were able to deal with this. I even bypassed the BMS at one point to see how the Class T fuse would handle it on its own. It was essentially a non-event.
Cell failure was my initial thought also. BUT in that case the fuse would need to be rated only for 3.4 volts as only one cell of the pack would fail and pack voltage would differ only by 3 volts from other packs. Sustained arcing is pretty unlikely if not impossible with 3 volts, electric arcs typically need 15-20v minimum.

Fuse could still provide as a ignition source for gases. I’d also take the fire investigation results with a grain of salt, everything seems pretty toasty..
 
the fuse would need to be rated only for 3.4 volts as only one cell of the pack would fail
In a Lihium pack it is the current potential that matters. The voltage potential across each cell is still the pack voltage, just as it is at any other point in a series string. Voltage adds in series. The only place where the cell voltage is that low is the BMS sensing wires.
 
In a Lihium pack it is the current potential that matters. The voltage potential across each cell is still the pack voltage, just as it is at any other point in a series string. Voltage adds in series. The only place where the cell voltage is that low is the BMS sensing wires.

I believe that what he meant was that if one cell shorts, the pack voltage drops with 3.2V, meaning a potential difference of 3.2V between that pack and the others in parallel with it.
 
Call me weird but I don't want a Seplos BMS. I keep seeing where they mess with it and v3 is not as good, or something. I dunno.
Part of me wants to get JK BMSes, another part just wants to retain the JBDs I have (with 300A contactors LOL overkill) just because I own them already.

Maybe all it would take to make it "work" with 230Ah is to just put a spacer block in the back of the case to account for thickness difference. I should check cell dimensions.

I'll take my discussion to the Luyuan battery box thread as to not junk up this one with my ramblings and musings.
Again, this is not about the BMS....
 
What if 1 hot cell started melting the plastic wrapper, shorting 2 cells case-to-case? A chain reaction could commence shorting one to the next as the heat grew.
 
What if 1 hot cell started melting the plastic wrapper, shorting 2 cells case-to-case? A chain reaction could commence shorting one to the next as the heat grew.

Has anyone actually verified that the case is a direct connection to one of the electrodes? I tested the original EVE 280 cells way back when, and that was just a capacitive coupling, there was barely any current flowing from case to terminal. I have tested this with other cells as well, with the same result, but this test was not exhaustive. Which cells have a direct connection between one of the terminals and the case?
 
Call me weird but I don't want a Seplos BMS. I keep seeing where they mess with it and v3 is not as good, or something. I dunno.
Part of me wants to get JK BMSes, another part just wants to retain the JBDs I have (with 300A contactors LOL overkill) just because I own them already.

Maybe all it would take to make it "work" with 230Ah is to just put a spacer block in the back of the case to account for thickness difference. I should check cell dimensions.

I'll take my discussion to the Luyuan battery box thread as to not junk up this one with my ramblings and musings.
And to add, this is now the third time we've seen something like a fire or a burn where this BMS was involved..

The first one : cheap powerwall, not build according to spec and leaky cells, yet the BMS was blamed at first

Second one, was a axepium box ( mason 280k rebadge)
Turn out a manual instruction issue and missing crush rings..
Again BMS was blamed until details came out

Here we don't know what exactly went down, and it is all speculation..

Weather this was an internal shorted cell or a fuse that arced, or simply wrongly assembled packs...

Untill we have more info we will not know, but it is all too easy to blame the BMS yet again, most likely wrong again
 
This is my summary of the fire. The Cells are arranged in 16s x 6 with fuses between each bank. After the fuses the banks are then connected together with a copper busbar. In order for one of the fuses to blow, then there would need to be current flow of in excess of 200 amps. The fuses were not type T fuses, so once the fuse melted then it continued to arc causing a fire.

The root cause would have to be one of the Cells that became shorted. That would drop the voltage down so that the current would flow from the other 5 banks to the bank with the defective Cell.

There was an indication of issues with the Cells from Xuba from the leaking Cells. The leaking Cells were replaced, but there were possibly others that just needed to have more time before they went.

The Cell that became shorted would have had to be a sudden event. The system had been working fine for years, and was working fine the day of the event. It wasn't until the sun had gone down and the system was in discharge mode, that the event occurred.

The system was put together in a meticulous manner and a lot of thought on safety was evident in the displayed results.

The Cells were all on a metal shelf and monitored, and still his house is destroyed.

This is all speculation, of course.

I believe that how we treat our Cells is very important. The Cells should be treated gently and not abused by excessive charging or discharging, above or below the knee.

Regular Cell monitoring and balancing should be a daily regime.

My thoughts are that LFP technology is still one of the safest Cell technologies that we have. This is evident in the direction of EV manufacturing. It also makes me question some of the Cells that do not make it to EV quality. Are we risking our homes to save a few bucks?

My conclusion is that the only way to be entirely safe is to remove the hazard from your home.


The pictures only show 6 strings, but in the build string where he replaced the leaking cells he shows where he had 7 strings made with 112 280ah cells. Also if you read the whole thread where he is building out his battery banks he started in a black metal cabinet then moved to a long wall of cells.

So 7 strings * 16 cells all using cell top balancers controlled by a single BMS. Interesting way of doing it but has the benefit of one controller keeping all 112 cells balanced. And the balance leads don't need any special identical length because the cell top balancer just lets through enough current to do the job. I believe he is using a 2 amp model of this.



I agree it was likely a venting cell that caused overcurrent to blow a fuse that caught on fire providing the spark.
 
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And to add, this is now the third time we've seen something like a fire or a burn where this BMS was involved..

The first one : cheap powerwall, not build according to spec and leaky cells, yet the BMS was blamed at first

Second one, was a axepium box ( mason 280k rebadge)
Turn out a manual instruction issue and missing crush rings..
Again BMS was blamed until details came out

Here we don't know what exactly went down, and it is all speculation..

Weather this was an internal shorted cell or a fuse that arced, or simply wrongly assembled packs...

Untill we have more info we will not know, but it is all too easy to blame the BMS yet again, most likely wrong again
I'm not blaming the BMS.
I'm just saying I don't want a Seplos BMS for other reasons.
 
And to add, this is now the third time we've seen something like a fire or a burn where this BMS was involved..

The first one : cheap powerwall, not build according to spec and leaky cells, yet the BMS was blamed at first

Second one, was a axepium box ( mason 280k rebadge)
Turn out a manual instruction issue and missing crush rings..
Again BMS was blamed until details came out

Here we don't know what exactly went down, and it is all speculation..

Weather this was an internal shorted cell or a fuse that arced, or simply wrongly assembled packs...

Untill we have more info we will not know, but it is all too easy to blame the BMS yet again, most likely wrong again


He is not using a traditional BMS.


Everyone should read this entire thread before commenting on the BMS or other things to do with the battery cells.

 
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