Zwy
Emperor Of Solar
I have read your posts in another forum.
You have a nice day or evening, which ever it is there.
House burned down
- Thread starter Jejochen
- Start date
You have a nice day or evening, which ever it is there.
Bluedog225
Texas
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_voltmeter_
New Member
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A fuse like a Class-T can in some circumstances 'explode' in the sense that sand and bits of metal can come flying off in case of a short. They quench the arc very well, but in the process there might be some 'mechanical deformations' so to speak. The cover over the fuse holder keeps these bits in one place.
Doesn't happen often, but it's possible. By the way, this is a direct short and how a Class T deals with it (without the explosion - the sparks are from the contact):
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
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It isn't ridiculous now is it? Afterall, more is better and more after that is even better yet.
This is what you sound like reading the comments.
Rant over.
What, Me sound like?
If multiple strings are in parallel, can one bad one get cooked and vent, without fuses blowing to isolate it?
I suggest isolating bad string of cells in the event problems are detected. Contactor or shunt-trip breaker, under control of BMS.
Bluedog225
Texas
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Relevant note. I was hooking up my blue Sea class T fuse and holder, and there is a sticker on the cover that says something like explosion proof when cover in place. This indicates to me that the class T fuse contained within the holder is not ignition proof without the cover, I’ll get a photo next time. I’m up there.
Bluedog225
Texas
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Oops
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
Being that people use a single 12 volt car battery with cables to weld in the field, it’s very possible.
The container in that context is the smallest element that is dealt with in the field for a raw battery, like a 12v brick. When you have a UL 48V pack that does not need a "container," but it could require spill containment.
Cell - single electrolytic unit
Module - assembly of one or more cells into a UL package
String - series collection of cells or modules with a single external current path
Battery - collection of one or more strings for a complete system.
Hedges
I See Electromagnetic Fields!
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"He never actually touches the other post and then he draws the arc"
I don't buy the part about it jumping an airgap to initiate the arc either.
Higher voltage needed to ionize air and make a spark.
Once you've got an arc, then you can pull it.
(But I'm not good under 125A on my 80Vrms buzz box.)
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
ok I have only welded for about 40+ years at this point in my life. when using DC current for welding the object is to start the arc without touching the base metal. professional welders do that all the time. beginners drag the electrode across the base metal to start the current flowing.
ever watched a tig welder? you hold the tip of the electrode about 1/8" and start welding. thats from a low of 5-10 volts for really thin metal, up to the limits of your welder. if you are running say 48 volts that gap can be as large as your shielding gas will cover.
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
Glad to see the damage was limited to the shed/ fence and your house is safe.
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
yeah they use that stuff here in japan as well, but the regulator for the gas is designed that if it flows gas over X amount in x time shut off. it is set to see sudden large amounts in the case of a ruptured pipe, or a low/slow amount over a period of time. slow leaks. the damn regulator costs more than the two propane tanks cost
![IMG_2155[1].JPG](https://diysolarforum.com/data/attachments/214/214193-b541d4b26fbfb04f19eda5c85ca97224.jpg "IMG_2155[1].JPG")
it can be a real pain in the ass when roasting a turkey or a ham in the US oven. had to put in special paperwork to get them to reprogram it to accept how a US gas oven works.
That's called HF start. It sends high voltage pulse (few kV) through the torch to start the arc without tip touching the work piece. Is activated by trigger button on the torch or using lift start function.
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
yep perfectly explained.
that and people saying that you can't arc DC without touching the wires or contacts...
Ego is the biggest issue on this forum, thats why I post every single screw up I have. no Ego to deal with... just honesty.
Best thing about this post... though I think the OP needs to pay homage to a really kind deity.
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
I think the batrium looks great for specs. 200+ cells monitoring is fantastic.
I considered this 10x10 shipping container but there are no bargains - wood floors.
View attachment 214116
Put some panels on sides and top.
The 10x10 cost is about 10x20 which is about cost of 10x40.
I’ve got breaker with lower rating then fuse as final fail safe for my batteries. My Batteries are manufactured packs in metal locker. Each is 12 volt heaters and blue tooth…4 bms. Not UL mine are emergency. If buying again would of bought UL everything.
don't know about your area, but here in Japan, the smaller containers are more expensive used as you can load them on a truck with a UNIC,(truck mounted crane) or a small forklift. the 40's cost less used as you need a crane to load and offload. its all about the economics of the situation.
Daddy Tanuki
Solar Wizard
technically you are correct, but I have a miller dynasty 200 and I have rarely needed to use the high frequency start and I never use the touch and lift start... too easy to contaminate your electrode that way. pedal or finger trigger, I ramp the voltage up, it jumps and I lower the voltage down.
Great thread for DIY education! I'm probably the worst setup regarding safety of any with my build. I am running 14s100p 18650s fused with the tiny wires on each cell. I just added 16s lifeP04 280ah string. I only go to 3.45v on charging which is 52.1v. I have limit of 80amps on charging 70amps discharging with Sol-Ark 8K. These batteries are in parallel. 8kwh PV total. I power 10 circuit transfer box. Biggest draw is 900watt 120v split air AC. Coffee make about 2700 watts, but only last for less than a minute. Air fryer is next biggest load almost 15amps @ 2900 watts.
Sol-Ark is mounted on 3/4" plywood. 18650s are mounted on metal sheet bolted to 3/4" plywood. LifeP04s on shelf rated for 400lbs. It is on wheels but I don't move it. I made plexiglass covers for each 8 cell section. Barley paper for separators and clamped at charge of 3.36v lightly.
No one on this thread spoke to the OP going above 3.55v per cell??
Sol-Ark is mounted on 3/4" plywood. 18650s are mounted on metal sheet bolted to 3/4" plywood. LifeP04s on shelf rated for 400lbs. It is on wheels but I don't move it. I made plexiglass covers for each 8 cell section. Barley paper for separators and clamped at charge of 3.36v lightly.
No one on this thread spoke to the OP going above 3.55v per cell??
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The stress from that hanging wire on that fuse is not a good thing. Why not have it mounted to the surface in a fuse holder?
