plr
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- Sep 21, 2019
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Thanks for the offer Supervstech but I think the chart and calculation might be a little over my head at this point
Solar And Mini Splits
- Thread starter plr
- Start date
Thanks for the offer Supervstech but I think the chart and calculation might be a little over my head at this point
I <3 This build. Very utilitarian, very sexy, very thought through, and quite capable.
Definitely! Utilitarian doesn't have to be primitive or without regard for aesthetics (at least in my book), I think of it as a function first approach.
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Knighthawk
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This will not be much help because I can't remember the name of the company but you can buy mini splits that run off of just solar panels. No battery needed.
Some of the AC's I've seen marketed as Solar AC are just DC air conditioners that are designed to be used with batteries for sustained operation but downplay that fact in the marketing material.
But I believe i've also seen another AC that has something like a transfer switch built in and defaults to solar when there is sufficient power and falls back to mains AC 120v when there isn't.
Do you recall how the unit you saw was designed to operate?
I just got into the solar world after binge watching a bunch of Will's videos and I became addicted. I actually install mini-splits for a living and was curious if I can run my systems with a small solar power system. I built a small 400 watt array with a single 100ah 12v battleborn battery and was able to run my 12000 BTU mini-split heat pump on cooling for at least few hours during a sunny day (I think I can run it almost all day but havent tested it yet) . A 12000 BTU SEER 19 mini-split can run up to about 1100 watts but almost always stay between 300 - 600 watts during cooling for normal use (probably plus another 200 watts if heating). Just make sure you're getting an inverter type mini-split.
For 1000 sqft basement you would most likely need a 18000 BTU or 24000 240v system and that will probably run around 1500 - 2000 watts, depending on the SEER of your system. I imagine you'll need at least 1400 watt array with 6 to 8 battleborn batteries to get that 2 day redundancy. Note that the these inverter mini-splits run will draw very little power once it reaches your set temperature.
If your breaker panel is full you can most likely install tandem breakers to make room. If you cant, then install a new sub panel right next to it.
For 1000 sqft basement you would most likely need a 18000 BTU or 24000 240v system and that will probably run around 1500 - 2000 watts, depending on the SEER of your system. I imagine you'll need at least 1400 watt array with 6 to 8 battleborn batteries to get that 2 day redundancy. Note that the these inverter mini-splits run will draw very little power once it reaches your set temperature.
If your breaker panel is full you can most likely install tandem breakers to make room. If you cant, then install a new sub panel right next to it.
plr
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Thanks for the numbers Boris I have 5 panels on my roof now but still trying to get at least 1 more. That will give me max 1500 watts. I have up to 12 panels or 3000 watts but my house is south east facing with a large chimney so I am struggling with placement of panels. Thanks again
Wow I see alot of opinions on this topic.
I have installed over 20 Inverter type mini splits in my rentals and my own home.
The inverter types are both heating and cooling.
The ones I have are all grid tied either 240V or 120V AC.
They are fabulous. I am in Canada and they all work to -27C at a minimum.
I have several news ones from Senville that go to -35c and still produce 60% their rating in heat.
Freaking amazing.
I'd like to point out that sizing seems to be misunderstood. After 10 years of using this tech I'd say I know how they really work.
I also install them so I know the inner workings really well.
Here is what I have found.
1. Never over size them. If you see a chart that says 18,000 btus. Go down to the next size. DON"T UPSIZE! - DOWNSIZE!
When you oversize them they never run at full capacity and they WILL FAIL! prematurely. I've replaced several due to this mistake.
3. The more and longer they run hard they better. Being undersized makes them run longer and have fewer cycling events.
I have found the reversing valves in them fail due to under-use. Bigger ones don't run as long and they go into standby too much.
I use 12000 BTU ones that the charts say needs 18000BTUs. 9000BTUs where they say 12000BTU.
You would need over 1200sqft in one room to ever use one that big. (18000 BTU)
Trust me - the smaller the better. They also use far less power which makes them an option for off grid.
I'll be putting 9000btu 120v ones in my cabins. I will tie them into a little 1012 MPPSOLAR Hybrid box so I can use battery and grid
On the solar side there are many coming out that either full offgrid or Hybrid Solar and Grid. No batteries or Complex solar setups.
They use panels during the day (some have 24v/48v volt battery options as well to run off of) and 240V grid at night.
I am planning to put several in to test them out. I also have cabins - my loggers use which will have a solar or solar hybrid installed as the tech gets better. For now, I'll install 9000BTU inverter types in my cabins. As I have a 120v grid circuit going in to most of them.
I'll use a 1012 MMPSOLAR so I can use solar and battery. A 9000BTU inverter type only uses 900 watts full tilt which they rarely ever get to.
A 1012 MPPSOLAR can kick over to grid if it needs to.
I'll up size my battery bank.
BTW - I have seen several Hotspot Energy HYBRID ones in use and they are top notch. They are true solar grid hybrids. Just expensive.
I have installed over 20 Inverter type mini splits in my rentals and my own home.
The inverter types are both heating and cooling.
The ones I have are all grid tied either 240V or 120V AC.
They are fabulous. I am in Canada and they all work to -27C at a minimum.
I have several news ones from Senville that go to -35c and still produce 60% their rating in heat.
Freaking amazing.
I'd like to point out that sizing seems to be misunderstood. After 10 years of using this tech I'd say I know how they really work.
I also install them so I know the inner workings really well.
Here is what I have found.
1. Never over size them. If you see a chart that says 18,000 btus. Go down to the next size. DON"T UPSIZE! - DOWNSIZE!
When you oversize them they never run at full capacity and they WILL FAIL! prematurely. I've replaced several due to this mistake.
3. The more and longer they run hard they better. Being undersized makes them run longer and have fewer cycling events.
I have found the reversing valves in them fail due to under-use. Bigger ones don't run as long and they go into standby too much.
I use 12000 BTU ones that the charts say needs 18000BTUs. 9000BTUs where they say 12000BTU.
You would need over 1200sqft in one room to ever use one that big. (18000 BTU)
Trust me - the smaller the better. They also use far less power which makes them an option for off grid.
I'll be putting 9000btu 120v ones in my cabins. I will tie them into a little 1012 MPPSOLAR Hybrid box so I can use battery and grid
On the solar side there are many coming out that either full offgrid or Hybrid Solar and Grid. No batteries or Complex solar setups.
They use panels during the day (some have 24v/48v volt battery options as well to run off of) and 240V grid at night.
I am planning to put several in to test them out. I also have cabins - my loggers use which will have a solar or solar hybrid installed as the tech gets better. For now, I'll install 9000BTU inverter types in my cabins. As I have a 120v grid circuit going in to most of them.
I'll use a 1012 MMPSOLAR so I can use solar and battery. A 9000BTU inverter type only uses 900 watts full tilt which they rarely ever get to.
A 1012 MPPSOLAR can kick over to grid if it needs to.
I'll up size my battery bank.
BTW - I have seen several Hotspot Energy HYBRID ones in use and they are top notch. They are true solar grid hybrids. Just expensive.