diy solar

diy solar

EG4 Chargeverter

Yeah but when you already have a 120V generator that works for the already rare times it is needed, kinda feels like why bother spending way more $ on a bigger one? That's where I'm at.
Nothing wrong with that, either.
That's what makes this great for any generator.
You can adjust its output to match your generators fuel efficiency.
 
You can't build a charger that does what this does for less than twice what this charger costs.
It was only possible because the board already existed.
It's a standard inverter/charger board that is incorporated in every Voltronics split-phase AIO.
So if the cord end that comes on it doesn't work for your needs. Just replace it for whatever you need.
You can't beat the price for what it is.

True. I was more trying to think about what could have been done to make this nice piece of kit safe without a major change to the board. About as important, what I might do if I bought one to make it, and the required components, safe to have in modular form.

If I read correctly, L1 and L2 are the only connected wires, and will happily take in anything from 90-264VAC. My interest was, what could be done internally, without changing the board, to make it take any properly wired plug adapter, or at least make a properly wired plug adapter for any reasonable outlet drive this unit safely.

Thinking more, I guess a 240VAC only, no neutral, circuit might cause my relay idea to fail to work. Perhaps a 240VAC coil across L1 & L2, again SPDT to flip between 120VAC and 240VAC.

That still means a specific leg has to be connected, not just any random hot. Attached is a schematic (hopefully reasonably correct on symbols) of what I am thinking about.
 

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I wouldn't bother with a code violation adapter. (Not safe to have one lying around)
And I agree that a 240v generator would be the best way to go. Fast charging and better fuel efficiency.
The adaptors are illegal? What about wiring a new plug on the end?
 
Nothing wrong with that, either.
That's what makes this great for any generator.
You can adjust its output to match your generators fuel efficiency.
The only reason I’m considering a new genny is our honda is over 15 years old. It owes us nothing. A 240 Honda (inverter) is pricey, thus the predator looks appealing. ** if I understand correctly an inverter genny isn’t needed with this chargeverter, only the inverter/charger/AIO are sensitive to power quality**

I like that you can “dial in” this charger to match the genny output.
 
@Nan_wpg You can absolutely wire a new plug on the end. The problem with the adapters is, if they're used with anything else, they may put line voltage on a wire that should never be connected to line except through a load. Not a good thing to have lying around.

The AIO Tim mentions can handle the poor power quality of a cheap generator just as well,however, where you can run into trouble is if you also have AC loads on that AIO, it'll degrade the power going to the loads. The double conversion involved in this charger insulates the loads from that issue. One of those AIOs used only as a charger, and optionally SCC, will do the same.
 
True. I was more trying to think about what could have been done to make this nice piece of kit safe without a major change to the board. About as important, what I might do if I bought one to make it, and the required components, safe to have in modular form.

If I read correctly, L1 and L2 are the only connected wires, and will happily take in anything from 90-264VAC. My interest was, what could be done internally, without changing the board, to make it take any properly wired plug adapter, or at least make a properly wired plug adapter for any reasonable outlet drive this unit safely.

Thinking more, I guess a 240VAC only, no neutral, circuit might cause my relay idea to fail to work. Perhaps a 240VAC coil across L1 & L2, again SPDT to flip between 120VAC and 240VAC.

That still means a specific leg has to be connected, not just any random hot. Attached is a schematic (hopefully reasonably correct on symbols) of what I am thinking about.
There's nothing unsafe about it as it comes.
Making an adapter for it. And accidentally using that adapter for something else would be unsafe.
 
@timselectric I agree that as it comes, it's safe, and that rewiring it for any other plug is just fine, but since available plugs vary so much between higher amperage 110 and 220, being able to use safe adapters would be a nice feature for at least some.

With the ease of wide input range devices, there should be a standardized "100-240V across these two wires" plug. Then devices like this could use that, and standard adapters could be made safely. I guess the IEC plugs kind of get around that, but they're low-current only.
 
With the ease of wide input range devices, there should be a standardized "100-240V across these two wires" plug
That would be nice, but not enough uses for something like that, yet. Maybe in the future.
This is why I would use proprietary multi pin connectors for this situation.
 
I was surprised how small it is.

the calculations he uses to “dial” in the charger to match his genny…… are they good for both 120 and 240? Watts are watts.

using the new Honda 2300i as an example (3200w./max and 2600w continuous) I come up with a maximum charge of 41a and efficient current of 34a which gives me an average of 37.5a setting.

this would charge my “power box” quickly (trophy battery and inverter).
 
I was surprised how small it is.

the calculations he uses to “dial” in the charger to match his genny…… are they good for both 120 and 240? Watts are watts.

using the new Honda 2300i as an example (3200w./max and 2600w continuous) I come up with a maximum charge of 41a and efficient current of 34a which gives me an average of 37.5a setting.

this would charge my “power box” quickly (trophy battery and inverter).
Correct
 
The charger would be “pushing” 37 an into the battery but what would the genny be outputting into the charger?

im asking because if I set the charger for 37 a I noticed the Honda outputs 21.7a @120. Would sticking to David’s calculations keep me within 21.7?

I get confused. V x a = w but the ac/dc thing has me thinking
 
The charger would be “pushing” 37 an into the battery but what would the genny be outputting into the charger?

im asking because if I set the charger for 37 a I noticed the Honda outputs 21.7a @120. Would sticking to David’s calculations keep me within 21.7?

I get confused. V x a = w but the ac/dc thing has me thinking
Watts is Watts, it's the great equalizer.
Minus efficiency losses.
 
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