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EG4 18kPV Q+A general thread

Once the pv wires are landed on the inverter, can't you simply throw a breaker or 2 and do the same thing?
To me, the more gizmo's present, the more potential for issues.
I'm just asking how does one safely connect the pv's to the inverter, not more stuff, unless more stuff is necessary and in this case, if it is, Sig. Solar gave me some bad advice.
On the side of the inverter you can throw that switch to cut PV power TO THE INVERTER. But the wires are still hot if you need to handle them.

You need a disconnect or to do what Gavin describes (or become a vampire and only work when the sun is down).
 
Can someone clarify the PowerPro startup sequence for me.

I've been doing:
1) PowerPro power/BMS button
2) Powerpro breaker
3) 18kpv breaker.
Reverse order for shut-down.

All has been well, I just want to make sure it hasn't been just luck.
 
Are you referring to a rapid shutdown? My panels are on the ground, so I don't need one of those.

"Steps For PV Connection" on pg 13 & 14 in the manual don't mention anything about anything really.

I send my questions into Sig. Solar as well. This thread is better than nothing, but taking random advice as EG4 gospel could be an electronics-destroying experience.

Hopefully, someone at Sig. Solar is compiling a Q & A list in cheat sheet form or something. Unless one knows, one doesn't know until one blows some shit up, so this one is trying his best to fill in the many gaps in the manual & general knowledge (?) of pv's, batteries, comm. hubs, battery racks, inverters, ac side (a whole other world imo), that are difficult to find, even in multiple online searches. It's quite a f'ing thing.
If you want to be safe follow NEC and Building Code for your area.
 
What's the protocol for connecting the pv wire to the inverter?

3.4.2 "Steps For PV Connection" states breakers off. Wouldn't the pv wire be hot unless it was night time? Does it matter?
Simplest option is to leave an MC4 connector disconnected in each string which will eliminate voltage on the PV circuits. Once connected to the inverter make sure the PV DC disconnect is open, then reconnect those MC4 connectors.

MC4 connectors can be used to isolate parts of the PV circuits, but must not be disconnected under load.
 
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Can someone clarify the PowerPro startup sequence for me.

I've been doing:
1) PowerPro power/BMS button
2) Powerpro breaker
3) 18kpv breaker.
Reverse order for shut-down.

All has been well, I just want to make sure it hasn't been just luck.
Did you have PV input last time you turned off and on the powerepro,
 
Did you have PV input last time you turned off and on the powerepro,
I did not. I still don't. Wednesday's project!


Does that change something? I was just going to follow the manual for start-up - Battery first, PV second.

For shut down I was going to cut the PV, then cut the battery.
 
I did not. I still don't. Wednesday's project!


Does that change something? I was just going to follow the manual for start-up - Battery first, PV second.

For shut down I was going to cut the PV, then cut the battery.
Assuming the powerpro has a precharge resistors. The breakers typically need to be on for it to work.
 
Assuming the powerpro has a precharge resistors. The breakers typically need to be on for it to work.
I might be confusing myself here....or we have some crossed wires.

I can "power on" the powerpro by hitting the power button, even if the breaker is off. LCD turns on and I get to click around in menus. I then turn the PowerPro breaker on, then turn the 18kpv breaker on.

There isn't really any mention of precharge resistors in the manual..but I'm assuming it's built in based on no sparks flying.
 
I might be confusing myself here....or we have some crossed wires.

I can "power on" the powerpro by hitting the power button, even if the breaker is off. LCD turns on and I get to click around in menus. I then turn the PowerPro breaker on, then turn the 18kpv breaker on.

There isn't really any mention of precharge resistors in the manual..but I'm assuming it's built in based on no sparks flying.


If it’s similar to the LL’s then you would have the breaker switched on first. Then the BMS switch to engage the precharge sequence. I haven’t looked at them real thoroughly yet, so I can’t be sure.
 
If it’s similar to the LL’s then you would have the breaker switched on first. Then the BMS switch to engage the precharge sequence. I haven’t looked at them real thoroughly yet, so I can’t be sure.
I just re-read the manual and didn't see anything. Hopefully someone can chime in with the official "best practice."
 
All of your questions are telling me you need to hire this out. Installing and commissioning one of these units is not for you.
All of your questions are telling me you need to hire this out. Installing and commissioning one of these units is not for you.
This is my weakest area of knowledge BY FAR. I'm barely at 101. Honestly, I couldn't care less about electricity. I llove the possibility of being off grid and having the means to produce will be even more important as time goes on. Flipped 3 houses, rewired the engine bay of my supercharged suv and still don't know shit about power.
I have my electrician who will be present while Signature Solar is there holding my hand to commission, so I think I'll be fine, but thanks for your encouraging words.

I now understand this part is needed, so I went to buy it and the screen read that I have a store credit for the exact amount? Whats this? I didn't have a store credit, for the exact amount.

Sig Solar, you guys are fantastic! That's very, very cool. Everyone makes mistakes, and I drilled the guy who was once a sales rep with an obnoxious amount of questions, so he was bound to slip on something I guess.

Thank you Michael!​

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All of your questions are telling me you need to hire this out. Installing and commissioning one of these units is not for you.
Not sure how easy it would be to find a contractor that can would be comfortable installing one. Unless EG4 or SignatureSolar has better secret support / documentation for contractors.

I guess a lot of the questions were for standard parts of NEC so one would only have to find a contractor willing to put in a DC system they're unfamiliar with.
 
If the BMS has a pre charge resistor. It's activated at the beginning of the startup sequence. So to utilize it, all breakers must be on, before you startup the BMS.
Thanks guys.

They definitely need a "quick start" guide for this thing.

I just read the manual again and I didn't see anything on startup/shutdown procedure, no mention of a precharge resistor.
 
How long has it been taking to get a commissioning appointment setup?

I filled out the request this weekend so I haven't heard anything yet, but my final installation D-day is Nov 3rd.

What exactly happens during that process?



I am aiming to have my PV array up and running WED, and I want to use it to boot up and start topping off the battery. I doubt I'll have a commissioning appointment by then...

I think everyone can tell I'm at the "knows just enough to be dangerous" level. Any harm in getting things up and running to get the battery topped off? Grid, load, and my AC coupled GEN connections aren't hooked up to anything yet.
 
Did not get one....the secret sauce is "Signature"
I put the secret sauce on. I'm not worried...it's been less than a full business day since they opened. Just trying to understand what happens during the appointment and make a plan.



Good news, they are already shipping out another conduit box that was damaged in shipping! Impressed with how quickly they handled that!
 
In addition to running into trouble when qualifying grid, that’s going to pass through to your loads and disable AC coupling.

You could consider adding a chargeverter after passing inspection (since that will invalidate UL9540), but it will also not work with any automation
I am ok (for now) to manually hookup the generator when the batteries run out and the grid is down. Just curious if it will be good enough to charge the batteries again to get through another night and day.
 
I am ok (for now) to manually hookup the generator when the batteries run out and the grid is down. Just curious if it will be good enough to charge the batteries again to get through another night and day.
If you know the run book to cold start the AIO in that state, you can probably try different input current limits to figure out something that works.
 
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