diy solar

diy solar

MPP Solar LV2424 kicks butt!!!

madmax said:
What kinda batteries are you using? It is important to check the battery under load. For me, fully charged is more in the 28v range.

If your attaching a stand alone battery charge to top it off, the voltage may be a little... misleading. It may just be a surface charge.
Click to expand...
Its a bank of 12 (6v lead acid batteries) 24v
The batteries are not the problem, they have another charge controller connected and im using a seccond inverter at the moment with no problems.
Either way keep sending me sugestions!
All help is welcome, i still have hope im overlooking something simple. LOL.
 
disconnect solar, disconnect AC line in, disconnect battery. wait 5 minutes.

25 just feels low. Right off charging it should be higher than that by like a volt or two.

Id try taking a few of the highest voltage batteries off your bank and hooking those up, or get two known good car batteries and wire it up. Its better to test fully that it isn't a battery problem than to take a part the unit.
 
Allready tried that, and tested it with another bank, and still the same result! Its been a week since i last tested it. Before opening it tomorrow ill Re conect it and see what happens
 
Sunny Days said:
Allready tried that, and tested it with another bank, and still the same result! Its been a week since i last tested it. Before opening it tomorrow ill Re conect it and see what happens
Click to expand...
good luck.. this is terrible. I have a second LV2424 on order myself.
 
To the OP, The setting seem to have some.. interesting results. Case in point, I have it set to Solar first, charge when solar unavaliable.
Load priority, then battery. Sometimes it does some wacky things though. But then one time I found it was dropping the voltage too low before switching to line charging. So then I switched some settings. But now when I choose charging for both solar and line power, it doesn't always show line power being used.
 
I even had a second one in my cart with 2 parallel boards so i could do split phase, im using now my cheap backup splitphase. Powerjack inverter. LOL
 
Hedges said:
You could use a combiner box like one of these
Click to expand...
I found a nice box loaded, and just had to make a few modifications for my LV2424. using C Sun 305's and doing them in 4 panel increments as I can afford. Rewired to a 2S2P configuration Brand is eco worthy.
DSCF0604.JPG
 
Sunny Days said:
Anyone know about repair guides for
The LV2424?
Mine been working great for about 2 years, now its off, if switch it on the screen lights up with no data just blank and last for 3 seconds then its off, no beeps and no fans running.
Cant seem to find anything online.
Click to expand...

Semi-wild guess here, without a schematic of your unit to go by.
Here is the basic "Buck" switching regulator configuration to drop from a high voltage to lower:

en.wikipedia.org

File:Buck operating.svg - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org

If that diode was shorted, it could act the way you describe.
With the unit disconnected and after sitting long enough to discharge caps, first check VDC to ensure it's fully discharged.
Then check the diode with "diode check" scale of a DMM. Should be about 0.7V in one polarity, open circuit in the other. Check ohms as well. A shorted diode will read low ohms in both polarities.
It is also possible for other components in the circuit to interfere with the reading, but this test might tell you about the diode.

There are probably capacitors on the PV side of the switch, not shown in this simple schematic. They could be shorted. With PV disconnected, measure resistance of input. Should start low, then go up to high impedance. Reverse DMM leads and that will repeat as it charges the other polarity. Rather than completely open, may show hundreds of k or meg ohms, a resistor to discharge the cap.

What are the ratings of the panels, and how many in series? How many in parallel? What are the rating of your inverter/charger?
 
Big thank you Erik! I recently lost the ability to back feed when the utility installed a smart meter. I figured the my house for the most part was using more then the 800+ watts my PV was providing, but they called me on it, and I was feeding the grid when my load was low. I haven't using near 100% of my PV for several months now. I will reconfigure what all I can power, and like you, keep my battery bank mostly charged for outages. The only thing that bothers me, and I put a tester on the AC output side is, when the PV is done for the night, a relay clicks, and my ground floats. I first saw a line fault when I had plugged in a UPS, but also verified with one of those 3 light Edison testers. The grounds between the AC in and AC out seem to be tied together, so I don't know why this happens. Any ideas?
 
Scott Martinez said:
Big thank you Erik! I recently lost the ability to back feed when the utility installed a smart meter. I figured the my house for the most part was using more then the 800+ watts my PV was providing, but they called me on it, and I was feeding the grid when my load was low. I haven't using near 100% of my PV for several months now. I will reconfigure what all I can power, and like you, keep my battery bank mostly charged for outages. The only thing that bothers me, and I put a tester on the AC output side is, when the PV is done for the night, a relay clicks, and my ground floats. I first saw a line fault when I had plugged in a UPS, but also verified with one of those 3 light Edison testers. The grounds between the AC in and AC out seem to be tied together, so I don't know why this happens. Any ideas?
Click to expand...
Isn't there a separate ground lug? I forget.
 
For clarity, my panels and combiner box are grounded to earth via a dedicated ground rod. I'm also pulling that ground inside to ground my arcfault breakers. Those arcfault breakers also have a ground wire which connects to my inverters mounting screw. If I'm not mistaken the internals of the inverter are grounded via the AC input
 
I would assume that the chassis of the LV2424 would be tied to the AC input ground like most electronic devices. Unless the LV2424 lifts that when the PV is done for the night, I'm at a loss. I believe that I measured earth/ground across the AC in and inverter out, but I'll re-check tonight after sunset. I have my panels grounded to earth, but that is isolated from the LV2424. I just have the DC positive and negative connected.
 
Panels are also supposed to be grounded.
On a side note if they don't allow you to back feed, (or if you get no credit for it) then consider maybe a thermal dump or cooling dump.
 
madmax said:
On a side note if they don't allow you to back feed, (or if you get no credit for it) then consider maybe a thermal dump or cooling dump.
Click to expand...
The panels are grounded to earth via a ground rod, but not also grounded to the LV2424 chassis.

Also, I was inspired by the beginning of this thread, and plan to run on the inverter side so that more of my 1kw PV is used daily. The rest of the load will get picked up from the grid at night, or rainy days. I'll try and keep the batteries topped off for emergencies.
 
Trying to get things set up, this has been asked and answered many times I believe but i'm lost.

What is the best charging amperage for the BYD 5k power wall 8s Lifepo4 in the settings of the software that came with the LV2424?

Trying to set up best user parameters in battery. I had thought low was slow, and best for balancing but have found confused results.

On another note, I made a change in charge amperage in the software on 1 unit thinking it would be universal in the settings, and found this morning it did not change it through out all units just the 1, had to do each one manually.
 
thealaskan said:
Trying to get things set up, this has been asked and answered many times I believe but i'm lost.

What is the best charging amperage for the BYD 5k power wall 8s Lifepo4 in the settings of the software that came with the LV2424?

Trying to set up best user parameters in battery. I had thought low was slow, and best for balancing but have found confused results.

On another note, I made a change in charge amperage in the software on 1 unit thinking it would be universal in the settings, and found this morning it did not change it through out all units just the 1, had to do each one manually.
Click to expand...
I've found that some things propagate and some don't I don't recall exactly which so I realize my comment is of little value :)
 
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