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EG4 3kW Off-Grid Inverter | 3000EHV-48

ovenmitzz

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Joined
Dec 1, 2023
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3
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Illinois
Hello, I am new to solar and have purchased a small off-grid solar system. I bought 10 325-watt solar panels and planned on wiring five panels in series and then combining both arrays in parallel. However, as I was looking through the specs of the EG4 controller, I noticed that the max current draw is only 18 amps. I hope someone can help me in this area, as my understanding of the current draw is how much a load uses. I think that according to the spec sheet, it really means the maximum amperage input from the solar panels. Can anyone confirm this? If this is the case, I may not be able to put the arrays in parallel because the Isc is 9.17 amps and (Imp) is 8.69 amps.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
 
Good pick of equipment to start with.

Current is one spec that you can usually get away with bending the rules on. Maybe someone else can chime in if there's anything that could go wrong, but I think you just won't get the 3k to draw that full current from the panels and it will be ok. You won't get all of the power at max output, but you'll still benefit from the extra panel output the rest of the time.
 
Simply run the ten panels in series. The 3000 EHV can accept up to 500v total and your panels are probably around 36v each. So you get 360v at 9.17 amps to the inverter. You’ll need a 48v 100ah battery minimum. Since voltage is high and amps are low you don’t have to use as thick of wire running from inverter to panels. It’s a win/win!

Make sure you install a quality PV isolator switch near the panels so you can turn that 360v DC off when working on the system. A quality high voltage DC breaker for the PV wire near the inverter is also a good plan. DC arcs are much larger and dangerous compared to AC. When running DC PV wire indoors most electric code requires those wires be in metal conduit (Because of the arc potential and high voltage). Flexible metal conduit is usually fine. This stuff can hurt or kill you so go slow, double check every connection, be careful and if you don’t know for sure, stop and go learn or ask for help.
 
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I also am new to Solar and am installing a EG4/3000EHV-48 into my RV. I am planning to use 6 200Watt Solar panels wired in series and i have a question about the integrated MPPT solar charger in the inverter.
The Solar panel specs say 23volts "open circuit" per panel so in series i would get 138 volts.
But the specs for the panels say "Optimum Operating Voltage" of 19.2 volts for a total of 115.2volts.
The specs on the MPPT Charge controller say minimum voltage is 120volts.... Will i be okay with those panels?
I am just worried about the Charger dropping out if the voltage drops below 120 after a load is applied.
You can tell i'm new... LOL
Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated.

 
I also am new to Solar and am installing a EG4/3000EHV-48 into my RV. I am planning to use 6 200Watt Solar panels wired in series and i have a question about the integrated MPPT solar charger in the inverter.
The Solar panel specs say 23volts "open circuit" per panel so in series i would get 138 volts.
But the specs for the panels say "Optimum Operating Voltage" of 19.2 volts for a total of 115.2volts.
The specs on the MPPT Charge controller say minimum voltage is 120volts.... Will i be okay with those panels?
I am just worried about the Charger dropping out if the voltage drops below 120 after a load is applied.
You can tell i'm new... LOL
Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated.

Did you find an answer to your question? I have the same concern except I am looking at installing 4 200w panels. Something else to consider is that when wiring solar panel in series, shading of a single panel will lower the output of the entire string.
 
I also am new to Solar and am installing a EG4/3000EHV-48 into my RV. I am planning to use 6 200Watt Solar panels wired in series and i have a question about the integrated MPPT solar charger in the inverter.
The Solar panel specs say 23volts "open circuit" per panel so in series i would get 138 volts.
But the specs for the panels say "Optimum Operating Voltage" of 19.2 volts for a total of 115.2volts.
The specs on the MPPT Charge controller say minimum voltage is 120volts.... Will i be okay with those panels?
I am just worried about the Charger dropping out if the voltage drops below 120 after a load is applied.
You can tell i'm new... LOL
Any help/advise would be greatly appreciated.

In this case, I would recommend adding another panel since the optimum operational voltage is closer to what you will see from day to day use.
 
Did you find an answer to your question? I have the same concern except I am looking at installing 4 200w panels. Something else to consider is that when wiring solar panel in series, shading of a single panel will lower the output of the entire string.

Unless you experience extreme shading, this should work fine. However, adding an additional panel would not hurt.
 
Simply run the ten panels in series. The 3000 EHV can accept up to 500v total and your panels are probably around 36v each. So you get 360v at 9.17 amps to the inverter. You’ll need a 48v 100ah battery minimum. Since voltage is high and amps are low you don’t have to use as thick of wire running from inverter to panels. It’s a win/win!

Make sure you install a quality PV isolator switch near the panels so you can turn that 360v DC off when working on the system. A quality high voltage DC breaker for the PV wire near the inverter is also a good plan. DC arcs are much larger and dangerous compared to AC. When running DC PV wire indoors most electric code requires those wires be in metal conduit (Because of the arc potential and high voltage). Flexible metal conduit is usually fine. This stuff can hurt or kill you so go slow, double check every connection, be careful and if you don’t know for sure, stop and go learn or ask for help.
Do you need a PC idolator and a dc breaker? Doesn't the breaker accomplish both functions?
 
Do you need a PC idolator and a dc breaker? Doesn't the breaker accomplish both functions?

You wouldn't need both unless you desired redundancy and if your local Authority Having Jurisdiction (AHJ) requires it. I generally recommend a PV isolator such as the IMO Disconnect, which accommodates wiring for two strings into the disconnect, unless code compliance for your local AHJ dictates otherwise.
 
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