Pre-charge circuit 48V
- Thread starter cbfraser
- Start date
hwy17
Anti-Solar Enthusiast
Your T Fuse should be before switch and precharge. I don't understand LEDs well enough to comment on the viability of the precharge circuit.
Mine is kinda the opposite. It only lights if there is a voltage potential between one or both inverters and the batteries when the breaker is open. The problem is a circuit that will light the led without keeping the inverter caps charged.
My new version displays the voltage difference and got it working dead bug. Negative isolation was the hurdle. After the holidays I’ll probably pick it back up again if I can remember where I was.
timselectric
If I can do it, you can do it.
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2022
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- 19,304
What 2500vdc battery switch is that?
Sorry switch is 60v 200amp
That is a good variant, thanks
Thank you , I'll do that.....
Rednecktek
Solar Wizard
You can take one of those resistors out and just use a 48v rated LED, it worked perfectly in my cabin.
Mercruiser
New Member
I am using a simpler solution on my 12V system: an automotive 1003 bulb. It draws 1A at 12V. I tested it with my Victron MPII 3000. Works great.
Here is the base I used for the bulb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R3J2DLN
I don't really see the advantage to using an LED for this application, when an incandescent fulfills three roles: indicator, current limiter, heat dissipater. I also think an incandescent provides a better visualization of the relative voltage. The 1003 bulb has a faintly glowing filament all the way down to 2V (15% of 13V).
The 48V counterpart would be an incandescent "forklift bulb". You can buy these in 25W and 40W versions from Amazon for $2 - $6.
Don't get me wrong. I'm a big fan of LEDs - when you want light without heat. But for this application, we need heat as a side effect of current limiting. So why waste money on a 50W wire-wound resistor?
Here is an example 48V bulb.
I see these bulbs have two contacts on the base, so you'd need this kind of socket
Here is the base I used for the bulb: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R3J2DLN
I don't really see the advantage to using an LED for this application, when an incandescent fulfills three roles: indicator, current limiter, heat dissipater. I also think an incandescent provides a better visualization of the relative voltage. The 1003 bulb has a faintly glowing filament all the way down to 2V (15% of 13V).
The 48V counterpart would be an incandescent "forklift bulb". You can buy these in 25W and 40W versions from Amazon for $2 - $6.
Don't get me wrong. I'm a big fan of LEDs - when you want light without heat. But for this application, we need heat as a side effect of current limiting. So why waste money on a 50W wire-wound resistor?
Here is an example 48V bulb.
I see these bulbs have two contacts on the base, so you'd need this kind of socket
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