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Well pretty sure it only accepts 10A anyway. Youre voltage will be fine.

Because newbs almost always destory their first set by under building the solar. So they buy 2 sets of batteries and 50% more panels, spending much more in the end. The reason people ever used these batteries for solar is because there was no better option.

He cannot seem to grasp that the extra internal capacity is so the end user actually gets the full 100Ah without actually taking the internal battery below 10%, and not to magically hide the top end and force a faux top balance. Its like a reserve on a fuel tank. Theres actually still fuel when...

To be charged to 100% to cell balance.

Yes. Its continuous draw solar systems where the differences matter.

All will end current flow when internal resistance gets to a certain point. Might help being more specific to what youre aiming for.

It would if left 24/7 such as shore power. It seldom gets to float much of the year and when it does, its less than 2-3hrs a day at very low current.

Its doesnt really matter for monitor calibration. Either charge to 3.6 or 3.65v or let it settle to 13.5v. Then set the controller to 100% and it will go down and up based on amps through the shunt. Voltage plays no role

When you "run AC off solar" youre running AC off a battery first and foremost. Youre always charging with 1800w whether the AC is running or not. Discharge and charge rates are the same so you need an appropriate size battery either way you slice it. Outback and midnight solar current limit, fyi.

On cloudy days a 40w panel barely makes 3A a day. Youre using 12 amps. You need about 15A to recharge with inefficiencies. Youre also destroying the battery everyday it goes without being fully recharged.

Thats perfectly normal. That can be anywhere from 40% - 90% full. When you get a monitor you will see everything is ok. You dont need more batteries. What is your bulk voltage?

Thats not a monitor and is meaningless. Everyones reads that. Its says 27.1v which is full resting voltage, but you have charge going in so we cant go by that either. Whats the voltage before sun is high enough to start charging?

So youre pulling batteries low? Or just think you might be off calculations from the store?

Not ideal. I dont know if its a shunt inside and it has 8awg wires, you should have double that at least. You got to answer the questions about whats going on. Is the fridge actually pulling batteries low or are you speculating? Are you charging batteries to 28.8v...

I wouldnt be that optimistic but it sure will be closer to 288wh than 1440wh.. Let me say it again....because its 12v-24v the amperage will be near 2A with compressor running. Thats normal. It should run 15-20 minutes. 15w You need to make sure youre charging batteries to 28.8v - 29.2v

Do you have the fridge now? Are you measuring its draw with a shunt based meter? Are you charging the batteries to battle borns recommend voltage?

Thats terrible first of all. But its still nowhere near 1200wh overnight. Like Insaid I ran a 650 liter/ 23cu ft full size 120v fridge and it only used about 1700wh a day.

Lol no...what a fridge uses varies wildly first of all. It might use 50A (1200wh) if it ran nonstop. A fridge only runs maybe 10-20 minutes an hour. So dived that by 3-5.

Dp

Thats what the controller is supposed to do, yes. Rarely ever see it go into float though. I believe anytine the fridge kicks on it trips bulk mode by pulling voltage down momentarily. Either way it tapers amps to zero once im around 97%...but still calls it bulk. Who knows, thats the controller...

Bulk - 14.7v (14.6v @ terminal) Float - 14.5v Bulk time - 180

I just ran a 23cu ft (650L) samsung residential fridge for 5 days after severe storms took out rural power at friends property on a single 120ah battery with 400w of solar. On days of clouds I would need some generator backup. It used about 850wh overnight. Compare that with my campers fridge...

Says 13w idle power saver mode. Thats what I would expect.

It will be additive. No inverter below 3kw will be using anywhere near 40w though. Usually around 8-15w.

So its not planned obsolescence, just marketing?

Valence does have the data showing exactly how much its been used. IJS.

Almost every drop in battery manufacturer recommends at least 3.6v per cell. And most 3.65v. @Fred S is right, its practically useless. You need a shunt monitor. Charge to 3.65v then set monitor to 100%. Then we can get to the bottom of battery capacity.

Lion energy Trojan Trillium lifepo4 Renogy All these companies and their planned obsolescence. Youd think itd be a terrible business model...

How are you balancing your cells if youre not fully charging? How are you supposed to determine capacity if youre starting at a random discharged state?

Tesla is not lifepo4. can you elaborate? How do you plan to balance your cells? Or maybe youre wrong about not charging to 100%. Can you name any manufacturers that do not suggest charging to at least 3.6v? My 9 year old valence says 3.65v.

Battleborn has you charging to 3.6v but somehow not getting the battery to 100%. And this achieved by preventing the internal cells from actually seeing the 3.6v. And this extra charge energy goes where?

occams sharpening his razor...

Why dont you just email them and ask.

Youre probably under charging. Try setting until 29.2v AT THE TERMINAL. that may take a setting of 29.3v-29.4v at controller. You also need to show no load voltage after test. Youre likely seeing voltage sag.

BMS is now $600 and out of stock. This is where you should buy your valence as well. They are $500 shipped and come with spec readout so you know what youre getting. https://www.mullerindustriesusa.com/product/miusa-bmslv-valence-battery-management-system/