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I've bought several pre-made battery cables, up to 4/0, and they were always nice except for 1 bad crimp that I got.

I still want to refer to them as just they're current potential. SolArk 15k = SolArk 275a. EG4 18kPV = EG4 250a. MN "The One" = MN 210a. And so-on... Might fix the naming confusion to refer to it in a manner that cannot be argued?

Most all recent BMS's have the same kind of shunt to measure SOC. If you want an actual accurate reading, then get a standalone Shunt, like the Victron SmartShunt. The JK, Pace, Seplos, etc, are pretty good, but they all need regular calibration (ie hitting 100% occasionally) to be accurate

I use Seplos BMS's in my DIY packs and they work very well with Deye/SolArk inverters. I also have plenty of Pace BMS's, but I no longer use closed loop comms because of incompatibility between the different BMS's.

Cheaper racking! Dear lord mounting solutions are more expensive than the solar panels they are holding!

I like the idea of stronger Monitoring!!!

Take that one step further. Inverter/breaker panel all in one! It can take the breaker panels place and use less space!

Peel the black plastic and clean all the residue off. Need to see if there is any sanding around the QR code

Hey. My mom says I'm handsome!

To piggy back on @chrisski, since there is no 240v need, you could just purchase another EG4 3000w inverter and wire each one up to half of your power distribution box (breaker panel). This will also allow you to plug into 50a or 30a RV service and it will either allow both or 1 inverter to...

I have had quite a few do this, but not that much. Thicker insulation definitely prevents the cap from screwing ALL the way down sometimes, I figure if it is sealed, then it should be fine.

How are you going to scrub them like your wipers do?

Thanks Dad for giving me work ethic and not just millions of dollars 🙄 so much better 🤣

I do not have an emergency stop button. I only have the on/off button on the front of the inverter, and the PV disconnect switch on the left side. Approved in California in 2022.

I just have my CCA powered off a breaker in the "Load" panel, going to a step down converter to the CCA. Therefore if the inverter shuts down, so does the CCA, therefore triggering the PV to turn off. Simple.

What version of JKBMS do you have? Theres a lot. The 55.2v shown on the Sol-Ark should be the "Default" or "Fall-Back" values. That way if the BMS stops communicating for some reason, it still has charge parameters to go off of. This is not indicating what the Sol-Ark is CURRENTLY charging to...

Ditto.

It's PAST CHRISTMAS, time to take your lights down!

The Seplos cases do come with a thin (2mm-ish) foam to put in between each cell. Not sure if it aids in helping the cells "breathe" in between cycles, but it sounds better than the plastic sheeting.

It most definitely is the same. Looks like the 10E or 10C model.

But it's not 240v. It's tough unless you run a charger directly off the generator, and power the loads direct from the inverter. But I doubt this "solves" your problem

Who brought up Deye? Exactly the reason you don't see very many of them installed on this website, they aren't very DIY friendly IMO. SolArks on the other hand, are plentiful on this forum, and almost always DIY installed.

What bugs do they have? Signsture Solars customer service is definitely not flawless, not sure where you got the idea that they were better than SolArks customer service... I would consider SolArk Tier 1.

If the battery is at 78% then it's normal to have the delta voltage that low. When battery % gets above 99% (3.4v/cell) is when they will diverge. I would not take a .006v delta at 78% as a sign the cells or the BMS are good

Taking DIY to the next level, now you ASSEMBLE it yourself too! Lol

No, just call it the 18kPV. It's pretty simple.

At that point I'm guessing they are just going to ask for proof of purchase, not require an inspection, no?

I don't understand why you would have to break them apart? It's just like charging individual cells in a 16s battery to quickly balance. You connect a bench power supply to the + and - of each individual battery and top up whatever one is low.

Yeah all the terminals are all front and center there. It looks pretty simple. Don't get me wrong, 4s x 12v batteries is a stupid idea, no matter how you twist it.

Do you have to pull the batteries apart? Can't you just charge them all to 100%, wait for HVD, then charge up the low ones individually to match? Shouldnt have to disassemble.

He means kW. Not kWh. 48kW of output is absolutely wild to me personally.

The main character in Pawn Stars has a small machine shop the same way, hundreds of battleborns powering it. I'll never understand. /facepalm

I'm confused as to what time settings you mean for the grid?

I have heard of them warrantying them if they have a specific amount of degradation in a specific time frame/miles driven. But I don't remember. I want to say 20% degradation before the warranty runs out, which for my specific Model 3 is 8 years or 120,000 miles, for the battery warranty.

I watched this the other day, and it gave me good hope that these will probably last longer than advertised.