Search results

I've been happy with my Vatrer batteries.

PLASTIC SAFE spray electrical cleaner. Best done at night. Yes, there is a difference.

+1 to flakey/dirty MC4 connector. Check voltages between strings to make sure they're close to each other.

You'll want a battery, even if only to help even out the output when there's a startup surge or a cloud passes by. With 242v of panel, you'll be easiest to get a modern AIO for your countries power. Many support 450v of PV input nowadays. Add battery, connect panels, wire output to load...

What charge controller are you using? Do you have a breaker or disconnect on your PV line you can "reset" your panels and see if the SCC starts doing more?

Some of us don't waste time with silly things like sleep. 😝

Docan or batteryhookup

I believe the MEC allows for rods in the regolith, your inspector can just drive out himself if he wants to bitch about it.

Meh, I would disagree but then I only build 12v and 24v batteries and don't care about communications. Since this is a hobby my time is my own so zero cost to me AND relieves boredom (boredom and I are NOT friends, I get dangerous) with something useable. The tools are like any other tools, an...

Karen from the HOA would like a word with you. 😄

The negative is usually a common so it provides your ground safety when you connect the live positives.

The bus bar option is easier to work with and makes it easier to add more batteries later.

Howdy neighbor! There are Pro's and Con's both ways: 2p8s Pro's - Single BMS keeps all the cells in balance, cheaper to build (less BMS's), single battery footprint. 2p8s Con's - Single point of failure, HEAVY!, larger footprint for two batteries. Having separate complete batteries gives...

I'll never understand how every chart I look at wants 4awg for 100a lines, but 6awg is fine from the 200a BMS. 🤔

Being a van I just assumed 12v. If it's 24v or 220v EU then ignore my suggestion.

There's the 3kw version of the LF Ionic available. I put the 2kw in my camper and I'll be installing the 3kw in my dad's new 24 footer.

For a 12v AIO you really can't beat the MPP 1012-LV from Watts247. The standby draw is about 50Wh a day and it's super simple to set up, and MPP has been a reliable brand for many many years. Eco-Worthy used to have a little 600w AIO unit with a PWM controller that I bought many years ago as a...

The hybrids that can do all your back feeding and run from battery usually end up cheaper than getting 2 systems set up and the transfer switches and all. The reason for the cost difference usually comes down to all the regulation requirements for the back feeding. Getting a critical loads...

I wish I could get another pair of those same krappy ones, they were really easy to take apart and rewire the guts into a 24v box.

I picked up one of those a few years ago as a teaching tool. The PWM controller really limits it down and the 600w rating should be treated as surge capacity, but for a garden shed lights box and tool battery charger it worked fine. Fun little toy, but a toy none the less.

I picked up a couple 24v cell packs a while back, my next purchase will be the steel and shunts and fuses and heaters and all to build those out for my cabin's 24v system. After that and a LOT of time with a chainsaw and skid steer I'm planning on getting a 6kw 48v setup to backup my pump house.

If it's lead acid and 1.5v your batteries are shot. If it's LFP and 1.5v then your batteries are so dead that the BMS has gone into protection mode. The charge controller doesn't know there are batteries connected so it's not going to turn on. Throw a regular battery charger on them or jump...

Wwwhhhaaaa?? Are you telling me that dfgfforgeomg isn't going to honor their 10 year battery warranty and 'ewpiriwmirngfi flexible solar panels aren't going to put out 800w in a panel smaller than my dog? You're joking, right? 😇

I put the 2Kw version of the Ionic AIO in my camper, they also sell a 3Kw version. I like it a lot and it does about everything I ask for. I just wish it would do more charging from the 120v because 35a isn't much for 560Ah worth of batteries. Nope, the requirements are "First Born Child" so...

It's pretty much impossible to match up maximum inputs on a unit like that because the designs are something like "Will take up to 5000w*!!" *500w limit is calculated at 500v @ 10a @ 25c lab test conditions... Which of course you can NEVER get in reality because Voc is higher than the Vmp, and...

The Growatt 3000 24v does it all, AND the MPPT, AND is half the price. The Ionic 3kw does it all on 12v, AND the MPPT, AND is LF for heavy loads, AND is 30% less. Not gonna find any Smurf Fanboys on a thread like this. 😝

Yup, give or take. Gone already.

Yeah, that looks like the rubber washet/sphincter piece inside isn't sitting down in its cup.

Horizontally across the battery terminals or underneath the cells is a bad idea, but I've run plenty of BMS's sideways with no issues.

1: Build still for ethanol 2: Convert generator to run pure ethanol 3: Drink "leftovers" for doing a good job.

They calculate wattage by Vmp and you calculate string voltage from Voc. They're a few volts difference but to your SCC it's a REALLY important difference.

I think 9s3p would max out your 6500, or 9s2p on one MPPT and 9s on the other. 10s will be too high a voltage.

Can we please take this Absurd Commentary and have some Decent Conversation?

A CPAP usually doesn't need anywhere that much power and may have a DC plug for it bypassing the inverter all together. You should be able to find a sticker on the wall wart or bottom of the machine that will tell you how much you need, something like 100-250v, 1.5a or 120v, 0.5a or the like.

You'll need to know not only how mank Kwh of battery you need (battery capacity) but also full draw load of all your stuff (inverter rating) and base from there. If you've got an inverter generator, most AIO's can take input from that nicely. A plus to having space is you can put a ground...