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They are mounted on my shop in the backyard which has a metal roof. The wires are run underground in conduit into my house, connecting to a DC Breaker.

I'll just put a little update here. I have 22 panels, in a 11S2P combination with two fused mc4 connections on the main positive leads. They feed directly into my house, to a DC Breaker, and then to the inverter. The inverter is powering a sub-panel. I went with the Growatt 5000ES from...

The newer firmware increases the amperage from 18 to 22 on solar input if I remember correctly. Signature Solar was no help whatsoever with the new communication board. You might have to try talking to Growatt directly, but they don't respond, I'm still waiting 2 months later.

I was going to update this post regarding the wifi stick, but I'm still waiting. It was returned on 6/2 and SignatureSolar still hasn't messaged me. I had to send another email (yet again, big surprise) asking about it. I was told, "It has been placed on the refund list since the 31st." I'm just...

Why not just wire the output to a sub panel, and then you can add whatever you want.

It's just a recommendation, they can't list every possibility.

The point of the video is to learn how to design your system based on the specs of the controller.. Look at the specs of the LV6548 and calculate the voltage and amperage of your array. If those do not exceed the specs, you will be fine. Just make sure you take the voltage temperature...

If you haven't already, I would watch this video Will made a while ago. You also have to make sure the amperage doesn't exceed the controllers max amperage. When you connect panels in parallel, the amperage adds up, just like how Will explains the voltage adding up for series strings.

Good luck! They told me I had to wait till mid June for them to get a replacement unit on my RMA.

I finished installing all 12 panels on 4/3 and I live in west Texas. As far as I can remember, it hasn't rained once since they been installed. So far the panels are fine, there isn't any water damage visible on the cell side. The rainy season where I'm located at typically starts around June 15...

The funny thing is, I actually have two strings in parallel. One string is from Signature Solar (x12 panels) and the other string is from Santan Solar (x10 panels). I didn't have any issues whatsoever with the panels from Santan Solar and they produce more watts. The only reason I bought the...

I honestly don't believe that was the case here. The support agent didn't even ask or insinuate the damage occurred in shipping. Her response indicated, at least to me, that this exact issue had happened more than once. I originally thought that Signature Solar packaged the panels themselves, so...

Thank you for the suggestion. I'll defiantly check out the items they have. Maybe I can find a better solution.

Right, but the damage had nothing to do with shipping as far as I could tell. I made sure to inspect all the packaging and it was perfect. The cracked panels (as you can see in the pictures) were deliberately sandwiched between the good panels on either side. None of them had any damage to the...

I disagree with you. They could of sent me the correct sized end clamp with no effort at all. Also, there are other ways a company can replace a unit if the exact one isn't in stock. It isn't my fault the unit failed and it isn't my fault the unit is backordered and they don't have any dedicated...

Hi, I just want to start off by saying this isn't a attack on Signature Solar in any way. I simply want to share my experience with others so that they are aware of such issues regarding the company. I apologize in advance for the length of this post. What I ordered from Signature Solar...

I had the same issue, besides I never got the update to work. I just sent the unit and wifi stick back to SignatureSolar. I followed their guide on updating the firmware, but the chip on my unit wasn't by SiliconLabs so the driver didn't work. After I attempted to flash it, using the "exar...

Have you tried updating the firmware by any chance? I was thinking it might just be a firmware issue. What firmware is currently on your inverter?

I seem to be having the same issue. Did they have you send back the entire unit or just the board?

If you check the device manager, it should show up as "Silicon Labs CP210x". If it has a yellow exclamation mark, like mine, then the communication with the inverter isn't working correctly. If it shows up as "USB Serial Device", then windows isn't correctly detecting it and applying the driver...

I see. I finally got my computer to flash it, after have problems all day. Still having problems it seems because I have flashed both files about 8 times already and the inverter never restarts itself. The tool says complete and to restart the device, I hit ok, and nothing happens. Then if I...

Is the inverter supposed to restart itself after you flash the F030 file, or you are saying to restart it, then flash the next file?

Yesterday I switched it to SOL to see if it makes a difference. The max output of the array is about 3700w (~300-320v , ~10-15a). Most of my daily reports for the month look very similar to image 2. It is still using the grid at times (which it is expected to do), but for the most part it is...

Correct. I am trying to power the load with Solar and Grid during the day and only Grid at night. The manual says to use "SUB" mode to achieve this, which I have set. Problem is, it seems to not be using the Solar energy at all according to the reports. Total load consumption is equal to total...

Sorry for the bump, really struggling to understand this problem. Here is the log from yesterday if anyone could take a look: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17tYgSwRFT9LkexqnD951igjghP43Zojp/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=117410109047396853876&rtpof=true&sd=true

Anyone know if there is a way to get around having to use a battery to flash the update? I currently don't have a battery, I'm only using Grid + PV as inputs.

Hello, I am currently using a single growatt 5000 ES to power my load during the day (PV+Utility), and power the load at night (Utility). I am using "SUB" mode under program 1, which according to the manual combines PV+Utility. tldr: Using SUB mode (PV+Grid, no battery), solar isn't shown in...

I didn't know the ES 5000 only allows up to 18A on the PV input until now. With my panels I would only be able to have 2 parallel strings. So yeah, the combiner box is pointless in my situation. Thanks again!

Anyone see any reason why you couldn't modify this box by changing the fuses to 15A and breaker to the one suggested? Being a beginner, I'd rather modify an existing one than building one from scratch. I'm just wondering how many watts can be on a single string after the modification...

My only issue is that I plan on having at least 2 parallel strings, maybe even 4, in the future. I feel like the fuses, breakers, and surge protection is easier with a combiner box. The box from watts247 is pretty pricey, but seems to be a good unit. Honestly, I was thinking about grabbing This...

I was just thinking about getting a combiner box that has the fuses and breaker already in it. Just trying to find one for 15A panels and 450VDC or more. I know that 4 to 1 box on watts247 should work, but still looking for other options.

Alright, sounds good, thank you!

That was the rating on the panels I got. I'm just confused on which disconnect to get, and I want to have over current protection as well.

So this is what I will be using (5000ES). I'm still confused on how to size the switch. I'm a beginner, sorry!

I have a question, how to you properly size the disconnect you need? I'm planning on having a 10 panel string in series each 250W and 37.6 Voc (600V Max System Voltage). The charge controller I will be using allows for 450V DC.