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As others have said, the BMS doesn’t seem to do a good job monitoring SOC. Been playing with it today and it’s driving me nuts. I’ve added 2 pictures, one showing my inverters SOC based on a smart shunt (Whizbang Jr), and the SOC from the JKBMS. On the BMS, shows zero SOC, but voltage is...

Yep, I don’t mind getting a little zap with 110 every now and then, but not wanting to play with the big amps these batteries can draw. Lots of tape on the exposed ends now. Couldn’t figure out how to get shrink wrap around the corner.

No, see the picture where it’s mounted between the switch and the outbound cable connector.

There is no sound at 2kW load. Maybe a slight buzz and no fans running. Here is me running 4kW into the batteries with zero noise.

Thanks boB! (my favorite cartoon character when my kids were younger!)

Here you go. This is Rosie running 12kW at 255A battery draw. There is no inverter noise, just fan noise. And the case being open is making it louder. https://1drv.ms/v/s!AhJrl5-Da3WVjKRZ1nUcj7xDPUqSYw?e=5puizc

I'm not sure this is a "real" stress test because I didn't break it, but wanted to share my results from my stress teset today. I was impressed with Rosie. Load: 13859W on AC, 12370 on Battery (something finished or turned off) Things providing the load. 2 4gal bosch water heaters (1440W...

MNGP2’s are required to configure Rosie’s, but you only need 1. So if you buy a Rosie and a Barcelona, then only 1 MGNP2 is required, they plug together with CAT5 and they all know about each other. Interesting note. You do not need an MNGP2 to run a Rosie. Once configured you can...

After a couple of different calls and emails to Midnite Rosie support, I'm HAPPY to state that my stacked Rosies are talking! I need to do some further testing, but we discovered 2 possible issues. a. It's Midnite recommends that the stacked Rosies AC are wired together in a specific...

So I’m added a Class T fuse to my battery. Made sure the master switch was off of my monster 600V power switch. And as I was tightening the bolts, my knuckle touched the negative wire and I got a minor zap. 😳😳. So I stopped what I was doing, brought out my volt meter and sure enough...

I did switch the follower to primary, and the Rosie made a lot of strange unexpected noise! So waiting for more guidance from support.

Yes, it only has power when the air conditioner is running. I have it on my 5 ton and that’s exactly how it functions and I think there is a YouTube video that also states that.

I have this exact switch on my batteries. So much better than the cheap Chinese switch that came with my case. Pretty heavy duty. No issues with lugs. I’ve turn it on or off under power, but not under load since I also have a 300a breaker that serves as my inverter switch.

Well I buy BlueSea breakers and Mega Fuses, so not cutting corners on safety. Except maybe this time???? <sigh>. And I “was” buying a BlueSea Class T, so not intentionally cutting corners on quality stuff. When buying fuses I always buy extra because they are once and done. So I was...

Posting my first pictures of a couple of Stacked Rosies. (no solar yet, just whole house battery) I nervously turn off the AC Input to run the puppies on Battery. I saw a slight dip in lights, but everything kept running WooHoo!. But, I still cannot figure out how to get the second Rosie...

Yeah, and you see the attraction of buying a "real" Blue Sea t-Class at $16 <sigh>. I was searching for better pricing and google or duck-duck-go send me over the cliff to the fake overstock site. Pretty sure it was a scam since zero email confirmation. Fortunately I used an Apple Card...

No malware. But thanks for the heads up since after review noticed it’s only been in existence for 2 months. I typically think I’m scam savvy. Apparently NOT…. lol. Here is what googles safe browsing status shows. Thanks again for the heads up.

I just bought a bunch of these from overstock.com affiliate. Price was $15.95 envyensembleemporium.shop/products/blue-sea-systems-5119-class-t-fuse-051198?currency=USD&variant_sku_code=5601903-0-0-0-0-0-0&msclkid=c9e674219a0c127e46d5121252e47b90

It’s a push once for on and hold for 3 seconds for off (or at least it works that way for my inverter version). It’s handy when starting out and working through all the settings.

Regarding your 110V wiring comment, did you not see the pinout diagram on page 2 for the L14-30P using it for 240-V-120? It shows which terminal is not used for 120V.

Answered my own question. The Neutrals are common inside the Rosies, so by following that logic, the bypass would also use the same common neutral.

Their epanel for stacked Rosie’s is still not released. (Was supposed to be Feb). Hence the DIY. But. The diagram for the stacked ePanels are still showing separate neutrals out to load panel.

Sorry, seems I added confusion with the colors. They represent the inverters and not L1/L2. Rosie Inverters. True split phase 240V

True split phase dual pole inverters. The two colors represent the different inverters. Bypass is true dual pole L1/L2 for each input. There is a box with a din rail for the breaker & the bypass and it has both ground and neutral busbars .

I have question related to neutral wiring using 2 inverters AND bypass switches for each of the inverters. My inverter wiring diagram is straight forward, L1/L2 + neutral in from grid panel, and L1/L2+neutral out to load panel(for each inverter). But when I add the bypass, would I be...

Does anyone have a favorite vendor in the greater Austin area for a raceway and related components?

I’m doing the same with my Emporia. Extracting data and then saving it into a database for analysis. 3 hours sucks for seconds data. But. As I thought about it, the purpose is to understand usage, and the big load devices rarely only use the power for less than 1 min. (Other than motor...

Yep, wasn’t happy about that, so it clearly stays out of the critical load! LoL. (We debated gas versus electric heater when we bought the house. Regretting the electric choice!

I’m doing something similar. I have 1 main panel and 3 sub panels. In Texas, new homes have 240 breakers outside, so all our big loads including the 3 sub panels are all served from the main. So I’m creating a new critical load panel just for the backup and moving just some key things to...

Update on my battery build. Decided to not mount the BMS under the top of the case(see picture) as it would make it really difficult to work with the cables(using 4/0) and put it all back to where the top needs to be. So I mounted it to a stiff cutting board(for isolation) and placed it on...

I'm trying to figure out if I need 1 shunt or 2, or if I need to change my planned wiring to accommodate a shunt. Current scenario is 2 batteries and 2 stacked inverters connected via a busbar. In this configuration I'm confused if I need 1 or 2 shunts? Or, should I change the wiring...

SS has shipped out all their CV's on back order (I received mine late Feb). I will be hooking my CV directly to my battery since it's only purpose is to recharge the batteries and I don't want the inverter to use it to power the house AND charge the battery.

I hope this isn't toooo stupid of a question. <sigh> I'm building my batteries and hooking them up to 2 stacked Rosies. Since I'm working with 48V and potentially 300A, when doing final connections, what is the safe approach so I don't create sparks/arcs in either wire to connections, or...

Just curious. The BMS can charge individual batteries (balancing) and can shut-off the entire battery via the BMS circuit board. All the batteries are connected together via the bus bars, and are connected to the inverter, or grid or generator. I don't think there is any...

I’ll find out and let ya know 😂