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that's pretty good! 17 cents a watt shipped $1930 / (365w * 31) = 0.17

How much was shipping? I’m curious what your final to your door price was

just as a datapoint, not so much as a reccomendation: I have a MPP Solar PIP-2024LV-MK 24V System and so far it works pretty decent. but it is pretty loud to have in my travel trailer. I would not choose it again if I was picking something to be in the travel trailer so close to me. I am...

super cool! depending on the pricing, I'd for sure be interested

just put your panels 2s2p (as in, 2 sets of 2 panels in series joined with a Y connector). the max current on them of 5.8amps is not that high and as long as you check to make sure the wire size can handle that current, you should be fine. eg: google "max ampacity <put the size of your wire...

Where did you get them from?

do a video of charging a lifepo battery below freezing show how much below freezing or how high of current you need to go for it to damage the cells

Or, in other words, all those cheap chinese batteries on amazon aren't just a fluke and we should continue seeing cheaper and cheaper batteries into the future. Good for us all.

talks about how battery demand is growing exponentially, and how once more things start using more batteries, they become cheaper to make and so therefore even more things will start using them https://rmi.org/the-rise-of-batteries-in-six-charts-and-not-too-many-numbers

thanks for the reply! yeah, that's why I was thinking: if I'm not going to run into problems from POCO for adding to an existing system, that would be the easiest way to add solar to my house. My next questions if I go down this route will be the technical stuff like "how do I get them talking...

I have an existing enphase system on my roof. I net meter with the POCO 1:1. We use more power now than we used to. I'd like to maybe DIY add solar capacity to it. The existing panels are above the living part of my roof. I was thinking of maybe trying to add panels myself on top of my garage's...

yep, like @sunshine_eggo says, one of your two batteries is hitting it's low voltage cutoff protection. when you said: what charger did you use? was it something that you can verify is charging at 14.4-14.6v? because if it is a charger made for lead acid batteries (like car battery chargers)...

that is correct. that's a lot of amps at 12 volts. that's why it makes sense to up your system voltage to 48v (or at the very least 24 v) at that kind of wattage. then you don't need such beefy and large charge controllers, inverter, and wires

I'm curious: what do you do with them? why are they so useful?

If you're concerned about the low temp protection on the batteries, you could also add a second low temp protection on the PV wire in to the battery. Then you'd have 2 switches that have to be on in order for the battery to charge. so 2 different thermostats have to think it is above freezing...

no, it is 200 watt hours used. Because when you are talking about the amount of energy used over a period of time, the unit is watt hours no, it is 800 watt hours used. you're still getting watts and watt hours confused. I'd google https://www.google.com/search?q=watts+vs+watt+hours

If your inverter puts out a max of 600w then you only need 12v. Actually, if you already have your inverter, then it's decided for you: Use whatever voltage that inverter is (I'm guessing it's 12v if it's 600w) also, you are confusing "watts" with "watt hours". watts is a measure of power at a...

yes please do! I would be very interested to see how that goes for you and what your final setup looks like

I have a hot tub and have been thinking about how I could use it as "storage" to dump my excess solar energy during the day, instead of net metering or storing it in a battery. I have an mpp lvx6048wp inverter and I've been thinking of adding some more solar panels and using the extra energy to...

what voltage of battery are you charging? what charge controller is it? another possibility is putting the 3 in parallel if the voltage is higher than the battery charging voltage. or if you have 4 panels you could put them 2s2p (2 parallel strings of 2 in series)

yes, the solar mppt charger will continue to work as long as there is sun on the panels even if the inverter is turned off

that's right. i would not run 3 of them in series on that 100v charge controller. you'd be fine with 2 in series though

yes, you need to either add some kind of low temp protection or heating if you're going to charge them below freezing. the simplest thing to do, if you got it from amazon and are still within the return window, would be to take it back and get the one with low temp protection. if you can't do...

I'm have the same and am curious to see if anyone has any answers for you. one specific thing that I have wondered is what if I bought just 1 LiTime with low temp protection and put that in series with another liTime without it? would the low temp protection on the one protect both in series?

Doing more research I also found this video: Basically, his idea is to use a cheap-but-low-amp W1209 temperature relay to turn on a higher-amp solid state relay I think that might possibly work if I put that between the solar input and the all-in-one since the max voltage PV open circuit...

just curious? why would it not be a good option? would it work but not be ideal or would it just not work? and as far as your other question, unfortunately my scc does not have a temperature control on it

I have 4 of these panels (got them used for super cheap). going into an MPP pip-2024lv-mk all-in-one (which does not have any low temp protection) hooked up to the 2 no-low-temp-protection LiTime 12v batteries I mentioned above wired in 24v series and for what it's worth, I do have 12v available...

I just got done building my first solar system in my travel trailer. I used 2 of the cheaper LiTime 12v batteries in a 24v series. I bought them before I even knew about how you shouldn't allow Lithium batteries to be charged below freezing and why you'd need low temp protection. so that's what...

ya I did basically the same thing. although I also got this 24v to 12v buck converter to run the 12v stuff and I have the breaker for the converter turned off. I did this because I didn't like hearing the noise of the fans when I just needed 12v stuff. by using that 24-to-12 converter I can run...

...If I did that, I'd still want the inverter hooked up where the main shore power comes in so it could power all my 120v circuits so I'd use a manual transfer switch like this to replace the automatic transfer switch that the all in one unit has

definitely the fan noise. Sometimes I joke that maybe I'm borderline autistic because any white noises drive me nuts. also, the increased complexity of a 24v system. by the time I had to buy a 24v to 12v buck converter and stuff, it probably didn't save me any money. And I lose some efficiency...

I'll chime in to say that I just got done with a project where I put a 24v system in my 24ft travel trailer. I mainly went 24v because I saw this MPP pip-2024lv-mk and thought it would be a good deal and cheaper and simpler than buying all the MPPT, charger, and inverter separately. so I started...

wasn't my link but I just tried it and manually removed the tree "..." at the end and it worked https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Y1NQXK2

Perfect. Exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Will use seperate 10/2 with ground wires. Thank you! I took this picture of the ac input circuit breaker. It says 40A. Does that mean anything to you? Or do I need to take the cover off the main part of the unit to see something else?